1987 Boston Whaler Super Sport 13 - Project - Electric Trolling Motor Mount:

My goal was to produce an electric trolling motor mount for my 1987 Super Sport 13 which could be easily be installed and removed from the boat without the need for tools. I also did not not want to make any holes within the fiberglass to secure the mount. As such, the mount would not utilize fasteners to secure it to the hull. Instead, the mount utilizes the lip of the bow, the bow norman pin, and a sliding key to secure the mount in place. This mount was produced from 18mm meranti marine plywood and hardwood cleats which were glued and fastened with stainless machine screws. While more expensive, 3/4" King Starboard is another material worth considering for the construction of the mount. The mount installs over the lip of the bow, over the bow light, and the rotates downward over the bow norman pin. The mount is designed with internal hardwood runners permitting an 18mm meranti marine plywood key to slide into the mount, locking the key in place beneath the bow norman pin. I included a provision to remove any lash via a turnbuckle which would be attached to threaded rod spanning between the forward sides of the mount (see 1/2 inch holes). The other end of the turnbuckle would then be connected to the bow eye and tightened to remove any lash. However, this accommodation was found to be unnecessary, as the mount conformed so closely to the hull that it had virtually no lash. As part of a modular design approach, a Minn Kota Quick Release Trolling Motor Mount was installed atop my fabricated mount. As electric trolling motor can be fairly heavy, this modular approach permits the trolling motor to be mounted after my fabricated mount has been installed.

Mount Construction Hints

General:
• Consider using marine grade ¾” plywood rather than standard grade. While more expensive than standard grade plywood, marine grade plywood has the advantage of durability, additional layers, no voids, uniform strength, and quality finishing. 3/4" King Starboard is another material worth consideration. While the latter is the most expensive material, it is maintenance free and will minimize chafing of the hull surfaces which come in contact with the mount.
• King Starboard may be easily cut with a table saw, band saw, router, and hand tools (saws, files, etc.). Reciprocating saws may cause the material to heat up and bind the saw. If using a handheld electric jigsaw, the latter may be reduced by frequently quenching the blade in a cup of water. I recommend performing as many cuts as possible with a table saw.
• Consider creating a mockup with scrap / lower cost material before committing to final materials.
• Consider creating a template for the sides from a piece of material which may be easily filed or sanded (ex. Masonite, etc.). Using the template which I have provided as a starting point and then make the necessary modifications to fit your boat.
• Dry fit mount before committing to drilling for final fastening of cleats and runners. To facilitate this end, I used a brad nailer to temporarily fasten the cleats and runners to the plywood. Should they later need to be removed, then they may simply be pried from the plywood and the brads may be clipped off. When final positioning of these items has been determined, then holes and countersinks may be drilled to permit fasteners to be installed.
• For fastening, I recommend use of wood glue followed by stainless steel machine screws, washers, and nylox nuts. Stainless steel fasteners may be economically purchased in bulk from online sources such as the Bolt Depot.
• Repeated assembly and disassembly of the stainless fasteners may cause galling of the fasteners, requiring that they be cut off to be removed. To prevent galling of the stainless steel fasteners, consider using mild steel fasteners until final assembly. Never use power tools in conjunction with the stainless steel fasteners.
• For mounts constructed from wood, protect the mount with quality sealer / finish. I used several coats of Petit 1015 Captains Varnish.

Final Thoughts:
Electric trolling motors are expensive. To protect against accidental loss, you may want to consider using a safety lanyard. When the trolling motor is installed on the boat, one end of the lanyard could be connected to the Minn Kota quick release mount and the other end of the lanyard could be secured to the bow eye’s eye nut (located inside the hull below the norman pin).

Should anyone be interested in fabricating a copy of this mount, reach out to me and I will share PDF files of measured tracings of my mount.


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Date: 08/20/21 - 5:12 AM
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