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Tight Steering installation
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| dogeatdog |
Posted on 03/01/09 - 8:35 AM
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Went to install a brand new 9ft teleflex cable on my recently restored 13 whaler with a 40 4 stoke. Problem is when I put the cable in the tilt tube and tighten everything up, it is VERY difficult to move the rod. If I pull the cable out about an inch the rod moves with ease.
When installing this I thoroughly greased the tilt tube and cable eliminating any doubt of it not being greased enough.
My initial thought on this is a bent/stressed tilt tube from the curvature of the transom on these boats.
Anyone else run into this issue? Is there a fix? - This just doesn't seem right to me.
Thanks,
Dave
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| Phil T |
Posted on 03/01/09 - 8:53 AM
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Dave -
In doing a search on cable length, I see Iopmf's comment:
The correct Teleflex cable length for a 1979 Whaler Sport with side console is 10'. This gives the loop that is needed and fits like it is custom made!
Maybe the 13' owners can confirm this.
1992 Outrage 17 I
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| Tom W Clark |
Posted on 03/01/09 - 9:04 AM
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If I pull the cable out about an inch the rod moves with ease.
What part of the cable moves relative to what other parts?
What year is your 13' Whaler?
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| MW |
Posted on 03/01/09 - 9:15 AM
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Can you try the next size up cable ? You can clean up the one you have bought and return it (should not be a problem). I had issues with this as well
EX. Ioptfm's Teleflex cable is 10' for his 15' sport. My cable is 11' for a 15' sport, depend's on where your console is I guess. too tight and she'll "Bind", too big and the loop hang's over the stern (could get hung up on a dock cleat). The last 2 digits stamped on the cable cover part # should indicate cable length in ft.
I also got a 10' cable in a box marked for an 11' ft cable, so watch out for that.
Edited by MW on 03/01/09 - 9:22 AM
Matt |
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| dogeatdog |
Posted on 03/01/09 - 10:00 AM
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Tom W Clark wrote:
What part of the cable moves relative to what other parts?
What year is your 13' Whaler?
The year of the boat is 1980.
The rod that goes in and out once the large nut is tightened on the starboard side is that part that is hard to move once tightened. When I undo the large nut holding the cable in and pull it out about an inch the rod then is easy to move.
Keep in mind that the helm is not even hooked up and the cable is not routed; so there should be no resistance at all.
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| Tom W Clark |
Posted on 03/01/09 - 10:21 AM
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What happens if you unscrew the large coupling nut and do NOT pull the cable out an inch?
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| dogeatdog |
Posted on 03/01/09 - 10:46 AM
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It is still VERY hard. Seems only when pulling it out about an inch does is free up and feel normal again.
Could there be a slight curve in the tilt tube from the curve of the transom?
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| jsb91010 |
Posted on 03/01/09 - 11:21 AM
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I don't understand why the curved transom would have anything to do with the tube curving on the engine itself...I would make sure though that you DO have that loop they speak of to help keep it from binding. Sorry im not more help
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| dogeatdog |
Posted on 03/01/09 - 1:22 PM
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The curved transom puts a slight amount of pressure on the tilt tube and sometimes causes issues. Hence the reason that Tom (previous post) had to back off his engine bolts a little to remove his steering cable from the engine. I "think" the pressure of the curved transom put just enough strain on the tilt tube.
I could be wrong though, that why I am asking also.
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| DesertSport |
Posted on 03/01/09 - 8:04 PM
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I had EXACTLY the same issue on my 15 Sport. I confirmed it by loosening the engine mount bolts slightly. I couldn't leave them that way though-obviously.
I relieved some of the pressure by turning the tilt tube out It is threaded) slightly to Starboard.
Still not good but better.
I'm going hydraulic-next.
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| dogeatdog |
Posted on 03/02/09 - 9:13 AM
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DesertSport wrote:
I relieved some of the pressure by turning the tilt tube out It is threaded) slightly to Starboard.
What do you mean by this?
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| DesertSport |
Posted on 03/02/09 - 1:12 PM
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The tilt tube is threaded. That means it will rotate Starboard/Port), within the brackets, to a point.
I rotated mine, Starboard, which seemed the best way to go, on my rig.
Yours may be opposite. It all depends on the rig and cable.
Ihave two engines, for my rig. I'm busy thinking up shims (discreet) to eliviate this issue.
I understand COMPLETELY why BW avoided tilt tube systems, in the earlier years.
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| DesertSport |
Posted on 03/02/09 - 1:14 PM
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BTW, the later model 60 (triple) has less issue with this. Stiffer bracket, as I see it.
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| Jasonbighands |
Posted on 03/04/09 - 8:48 AM
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Does anybody have a problem with putting a Baystar Hydraulic system on a 13 sport to solve this problem?
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| Guts |
Posted on 03/04/09 - 9:34 AM
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Jasonbighands wrote:
Does anybody have a problem with putting a Baystar Hydraulic system on a 13 sport to solve this problem?
I have a Bay Star Hydraulic system on my Montauk17 I think that might be just a little over kill on your 13 Sport, The Teleflex safe-T / NFB should work. The system is made to have bends in it and work smooth... The cost on a Hydraulic system ? I would stay with a new cable system.
Have you taken the cable louse from the engine? will the out board move freely?
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added;
I had one of these on a tri-hull I owned once. The stand off allows the cable to work in front of the inner side of the transom. removes the sharp bend as the cable goes in the tilt tube. Worked great on that boat/ but it was just a boat and not a Boston Whaler. scroll down the page for other stand offs.
http://www.iboats.com/Teleflex_Steering_Replacement_Parts/dm/cart_id.311037015--session_id.172098361--view_id.47748
Edited by Guts on 03/04/09 - 11:00 AM |
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| DesertSport |
Posted on 03/04/09 - 11:49 AM
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The sharp bend is not the issue. But, thanks for the update.
My "bend" is actually pretty gradual.
I proved the point, to myself, by adding some plastic shims (from my outside fountain) to the outside of the attachment bolts. Viola', easy steering! Duh, why didn't I think of this before?
Now, the job is to make them "apperance negative".
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| Jasonbighands |
Posted on 03/04/09 - 12:29 PM
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I have found Baystar for $500.00 and change, and the Mechanical stuff will be over $300. I am a fan a good stuff, and don't want to have to mess around with hard steering and shims like others before are still doing. I want it good, and $200 more is worth it to me. I'm going to have the boat for years (I hope!) My question is, is it doable? I measured and I don't see a problem....I just want to make sure no one else sees a problem either. Thanks for the help.
Jason
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| Guts |
Posted on 03/04/09 - 1:44 PM
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Jason sent you a e mail with pics it might help ¿
Filling the system
http://whalercentral.com/articles.php?article_id=89
Edited by Guts on 03/04/09 - 1:49 PM |
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| DesertSport |
Posted on 03/04/09 - 5:52 PM
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DesertSport wrote:
BTW, the later model 60 (triple) has less issue with this. Stiffer bracket, as I see it.
I agree, from experience.
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| DesertSport |
Posted on 03/04/09 - 5:53 PM
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Jasonbighands wrote:
I have found Baystar for $500.00 and change, and the Mechanical stuff will be over $300. I am a fan a good stuff, and don't want to have to mess around with hard steering and shims like others before are still doing. I want it good, and $200 more is worth it to me. I'm going to have the boat for years (I hope!) My question is, is it doable? I measured and I don't see a problem....I just want to make sure no one else sees a problem either. Thanks for the help.
Jason
That's my ultimate goal. One thing at a time.
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