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Please forgive me, but I am not a very experienced handyman and know VErY VERY little about wiring and electrical. I do like to try to work on things though. I bought a new stern light from BW and am trying to figure out how to wire it to the existing wiring. It cam with a quick connect, so that is helpful, but the other end has a grey and black wire, whereas the existing wires from the panel are both brown.
Should I throw the existing wire out and start over? If so, is there something specific I need to look for?

http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BBQR...j.jpg.html

http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BBQR...j.jpg.html

http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BBQR...j.jpg.html

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Leave the existing wire as it looks original.

Just connect the two wires from the connector to the old wires and see if the light works.
It should unless something else is not working properly.

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The black wire would be negative/ground. The other wire would be a connected to a switch. Trace the originals back to the source. The black wire can pick up the negative anywhere along the route but I find it best to run them parallel from the source. There should be a negative buss bar or stud close to the switch. Use heat shrink marine butt connectors and I find melting the shrink easily done with a wind resistant lighter/log starter.
Garris

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As Joe implies polarity is not important as the metal light post is isolated from ground. Just connect the wires and it should work fine. Let us know how it turns out.

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thanks guys.

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Quite right on just connecting....lamp will work. Me....once I start to color code.....not a whole lot more work to keep it intact. Some one in the future might see the black connection from the lamp and take a short cut running a ground/negative wire when there is a 50/50 chance it might be hot.
Garris

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You want to add ring terminals to the exposed wires.

The ring terminal are sized for the wire. I would guess the wiring is ~18 gauge. Bring the connector pig with you to the store.

https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/produ...42932.html

Use pliers to crimp the connector and a blowdryer to shrink.

Attach the connector to the bus bar.

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I connected the wires together ad no matter the polarity, it doesn't work. The fuses look good and the bulb looks good. The bow lights are on the same switch and they work.

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Do the original wires look rusted? just strip a piece off the end and compair the wires on the looks of the copper. Also depending on the new stern wires they may be a differnt voltage then the original wires, not sure of the origanal volts for the wire.

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Also since you just bought a new light, id check and see the required voltage needed for the new light, and check if you have a voltage meter to see how many volts the old wire is feeding.

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BBQ Boy,
I agree with the voltage check, but if you want to start on the simple side, just run a short run of wire from the stern light directly to the battery and see if the light works. If so, try a test light to see if you have power to the existing wires. If not check the switch for power. If you utilize the site search under the "main" link just below the header of this website there are many who have asked this same question before you. Just search, "Navigation light wiring" or "nav switch wiring" and there are a lot of good answers out there including wiring diagrams for all Nav light circuits and switches used by B.W for nav lights.


Jim G.

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BBQ Boy - I had a nearly identical issue recently and used the method Jgortva describes. Remove the stern light and touch the wires from the stern light directly to the battery. If it works, then it's not the stern light.

One of the most common issues I find is that the connection points where the bulbs of the stern and bow light connect get slightly corroded. Recently I ran an entire new wire from the circuit breaker to the battery only to discover that the bow light connection points only needed to be rubbed down with a little vinegar.

I recommend cleaning those bulb connection points first as it's a very simple task and the least time consuming of the troubleshooting options.

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Thanks again guys.

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It's possible something is wrong with the switch and not working properly.

First Pull of the switch is Anchor lite only.
Second pull is running lights which include the anchor.

Use a test light on the switch to see if you have power on the terminals "R" and "H" when you pull the switch in both positions.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=51

I just had to buy a new M-532 switch for my Montauk as the bow light would not come on.

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I'll look at that as well. I plugged the stern light to the battery and it worked. The anchor light doesn't work on the first pull, but the running lights do work on the second pull.

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OK,

So it is either the switch or the 2 wires coming out of the original harness at the rear.

Hopefully you do not have to replace the original wiring.
The gray protective sleeve with 3 wires inside is original.
1 wire is + for bow light
1 wire is + for anchor light
1 wire is - for both lights

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I do the most of my wire trouble shooting and installation with a continuity tester (with a loud buzz), a 20' length of wire with 2 alligator clips, and a cheapo probe that has an light that goes on with the pointer hitting positive and the clip end attached to the battery negative. You can determine if switches or fuses are good or bad with the continuity tester. That little pointer end can really get to places without moving wire ends. That long run of wire with the alligator clips really comes in handy checking wires and the such. I found that poorly crimped terminal ends are a culprit that gets "overlooked" at times. You blame the wire but it is the connector.
Garris

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I went down today and looked at my 1977 Montauk.

It is exactly like you show in this photo with the 2 brown wires going to the stern light.
http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BBQR...d.jpg.html

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Ok. I was starting to think that the brown wire was old speaker wire that I remember from the 80's where one is smooth and the other is textured. I ordered a new switch just in case I can't seem to get it to work.

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Ordering a new switch is fine but do learn the trouble shooting. I keep some testing gear on the boat. Once you get the knack for it it really is straight forward and understandable. I have had to fool with some of this stuff on the water.
Garris

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What are these two wires coming from underneath the panel from the gunwhale? I'm guessing it's from the dash switch?

http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BBQR...x.jpg.html

http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BBQR...1.jpg.html

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Those are the positive and negative wires to your bow light which is why your bow light works.

See post #16 on the first page of your thread here:
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...ost_143902

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You show pictures and ask questions......but research and look at how they are connected on the other end. Who knows what was done to your boat by previous ownership. I truly doubt (as well as hope) there are no splices midway. Get down and dirty.....lay on your back and stick your head up under the connections......curse when you lean back and ruin a pair of glasses (like I have done).......and really get to know the wiring and fusing of you boat. You may have a poorly placed aftermarket inline fuse that is blown. Who knows until you research.
Garris

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I have been doing that as well. Thanks.

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Good. Are the connections factory original. Any changes in the wire color or sizing from the other end. Have you run tests for continuity with the wire or switches. Charge getting through the switch. Have you checked the negative connection in the wire. A simple test you might run is put the switch in the on position.....take the light that you know works and attach one of the wires to the negative of you battery with a temporary connection....take the other wire from the light take turns connecting to the different wires at the stern area.
Garris

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I haven't had time to look uno this any further, but the other night I was fishing and I started to head in as it got dark. I decided to play with the light and hooked it up. NaDa!!! So i said the hell with it and drove back to the ramp without the light working. All of a sudden he light came on when I have the motor a lot of power in the hole shot and the light came on for about 10 seconds. When i backed off the throttle it stopped working. I couldn't get the light to do it again.