Help me re-wire Montauk Stern light
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BBQ Boy |
Posted on 07/18/16 - 6:03 PM
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Please forgive me, but I am not a very experienced handyman and know VErY VERY little about wiring and electrical. I do like to try to work on things though. I bought a new stern light from BW and am trying to figure out how to wire it to the existing wiring. It cam with a quick connect, so that is helpful, but the other end has a grey and black wire, whereas the existing wires from the panel are both brown.
Should I throw the existing wire out and start over? If so, is there something specific I need to look for?
http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BBQR...j.jpg.html
http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BBQR...j.jpg.html
http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BBQR...j.jpg.html
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Joe Kriz |
Posted on 07/18/16 - 6:17 PM
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Leave the existing wire as it looks original.
Just connect the two wires from the connector to the old wires and see if the light works.
It should unless something else is not working properly.
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gchuba |
Posted on 07/18/16 - 6:19 PM
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The black wire would be negative/ground. The other wire would be a connected to a switch. Trace the originals back to the source. The black wire can pick up the negative anywhere along the route but I find it best to run them parallel from the source. There should be a negative buss bar or stud close to the switch. Use heat shrink marine butt connectors and I find melting the shrink easily done with a wind resistant lighter/log starter.
Garris
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wlagarde |
Posted on 07/18/16 - 6:55 PM
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As Joe implies polarity is not important as the metal light post is isolated from ground. Just connect the wires and it should work fine. Let us know how it turns out.
1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke |
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BBQ Boy |
Posted on 07/18/16 - 7:08 PM
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thanks guys.
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gchuba |
Posted on 07/18/16 - 7:54 PM
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Quite right on just connecting....lamp will work. Me....once I start to color code.....not a whole lot more work to keep it intact. Some one in the future might see the black connection from the lamp and take a short cut running a ground/negative wire when there is a 50/50 chance it might be hot.
Garris
Edited by gchuba on 07/18/16 - 8:20 PM |
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Phil T |
Posted on 07/19/16 - 9:33 AM
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You want to add ring terminals to the exposed wires.
The ring terminal are sized for the wire. I would guess the wiring is ~18 gauge. Bring the connector pig with you to the store.
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/produ...42932.html
Use pliers to crimp the connector and a blowdryer to shrink.
Attach the connector to the bus bar.
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BBQ Boy |
Posted on 07/19/16 - 7:39 PM
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I connected the wires together ad no matter the polarity, it doesn't work. The fuses look good and the bulb looks good. The bow lights are on the same switch and they work.
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72sourpuss13 |
Posted on 07/20/16 - 12:49 AM
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Do the original wires look rusted? just strip a piece off the end and compair the wires on the looks of the copper. Also depending on the new stern wires they may be a differnt voltage then the original wires, not sure of the origanal volts for the wire.
1972 Sourpuss 13 2A8558 |
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72sourpuss13 |
Posted on 07/20/16 - 1:05 AM
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Also since you just bought a new light, id check and see the required voltage needed for the new light, and check if you have a voltage meter to see how many volts the old wire is feeding.
1972 Sourpuss 13 2A8558 |
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jgortva |
Posted on 07/20/16 - 6:05 AM
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BBQ Boy,
I agree with the voltage check, but if you want to start on the simple side, just run a short run of wire from the stern light directly to the battery and see if the light works. If so, try a test light to see if you have power to the existing wires. If not check the switch for power. If you utilize the site search under the "main" link just below the header of this website there are many who have asked this same question before you. Just search, "Navigation light wiring" or "nav switch wiring" and there are a lot of good answers out there including wiring diagrams for all Nav light circuits and switches used by B.W for nav lights.
Jim G.
Edited by jgortva on 07/20/16 - 6:09 AM |
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Gmondun |
Posted on 07/20/16 - 9:21 AM
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BBQ Boy - I had a nearly identical issue recently and used the method Jgortva describes. Remove the stern light and touch the wires from the stern light directly to the battery. If it works, then it's not the stern light.
One of the most common issues I find is that the connection points where the bulbs of the stern and bow light connect get slightly corroded. Recently I ran an entire new wire from the circuit breaker to the battery only to discover that the bow light connection points only needed to be rubbed down with a little vinegar.
I recommend cleaning those bulb connection points first as it's a very simple task and the least time consuming of the troubleshooting options.
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BBQ Boy |
Posted on 07/20/16 - 11:32 AM
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Thanks again guys.
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Joe Kriz |
Posted on 07/20/16 - 12:56 PM
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It's possible something is wrong with the switch and not working properly.
First Pull of the switch is Anchor lite only.
Second pull is running lights which include the anchor.
Use a test light on the switch to see if you have power on the terminals "R" and "H" when you pull the switch in both positions.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=51
I just had to buy a new M-532 switch for my Montauk as the bow light would not come on.
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BBQ Boy |
Posted on 07/20/16 - 1:13 PM
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I'll look at that as well. I plugged the stern light to the battery and it worked. The anchor light doesn't work on the first pull, but the running lights do work on the second pull.
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Joe Kriz |
Posted on 07/20/16 - 1:18 PM
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OK,
So it is either the switch or the 2 wires coming out of the original harness at the rear.
Hopefully you do not have to replace the original wiring.
The gray protective sleeve with 3 wires inside is original.
1 wire is + for bow light
1 wire is + for anchor light
1 wire is - for both lights
Edited by Joe Kriz on 07/20/16 - 1:26 PM |
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gchuba |
Posted on 07/20/16 - 2:01 PM
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I do the most of my wire trouble shooting and installation with a continuity tester (with a loud buzz), a 20' length of wire with 2 alligator clips, and a cheapo probe that has an light that goes on with the pointer hitting positive and the clip end attached to the battery negative. You can determine if switches or fuses are good or bad with the continuity tester. That little pointer end can really get to places without moving wire ends. That long run of wire with the alligator clips really comes in handy checking wires and the such. I found that poorly crimped terminal ends are a culprit that gets "overlooked" at times. You blame the wire but it is the connector.
Garris
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Joe Kriz |
Posted on 07/21/16 - 3:24 PM
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I went down today and looked at my 1977 Montauk.
It is exactly like you show in this photo with the 2 brown wires going to the stern light.
http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BBQR...d.jpg.html
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BBQ Boy |
Posted on 07/21/16 - 4:54 PM
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Ok. I was starting to think that the brown wire was old speaker wire that I remember from the 80's where one is smooth and the other is textured. I ordered a new switch just in case I can't seem to get it to work.
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gchuba |
Posted on 07/22/16 - 6:09 AM
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Ordering a new switch is fine but do learn the trouble shooting. I keep some testing gear on the boat. Once you get the knack for it it really is straight forward and understandable. I have had to fool with some of this stuff on the water.
Garris
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