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13' New Interior Install Question
womms
#1 Print Post
Posted on 05/24/10 - 9:07 AM
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I just received my new interior from Mike at Nautical Lumber and I have a question: what size, length and number of screws should I use to mount the side rails to the hull?

Thanks.


Michael
1989 Outrage 22' Whaler Drive, 2014 Honda 250
 
MushCreek
#2 Print Post
Posted on 05/24/10 - 2:29 PM
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My '83 has 4 on each side. You should be able to see the original holes, unless they've been filled in. I moved mine a couple inches because the original holes were stripped.

 
John Fyke
#3 Print Post
Posted on 05/24/10 - 3:06 PM
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I have SS #10 on mine.


John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury.
 
CES
#4 Print Post
Posted on 05/24/10 - 5:22 PM
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Mine are spaced about 10 inches apart. Be sure to bolt them into some anchor nuts in the side. The fiberglass is too thin just using screws only and there isn't enough wood behind the fiberglass to hold the screws. I learned the hard way.


Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
 
womms
#5 Print Post
Posted on 05/24/10 - 6:26 PM
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Thanks for the input, guys. There are so many holes in this old hull that it is hard to tell what they were originally used for.



Michael
1989 Outrage 22' Whaler Drive, 2014 Honda 250
 
John Fyke
#6 Print Post
Posted on 05/24/10 - 7:06 PM
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It's not that the fiberglass is too thin it's that it gets brittle over the years. Not for nothing anything you can do to strengthen the glass, like filling the holes with thickened epoxy will help. The older the whaler the more brittle the glass. #10 SS in my '79 work just fine for the sides. Every boat is different depending on how much it is weathered.


Edited by John Fyke on 05/24/10 - 7:46 PM
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury.
 
John Fyke
#7 Print Post
Posted on 05/24/10 - 8:27 PM
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Just looked at your personal page. Are you talking about The stainless or aluminum rails? I use #12 Stainless screws for those.


John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury.
 
womms
#8 Print Post
Posted on 05/25/10 - 5:49 AM
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Sorry, a little clarification: this is concerning a '79 13' hull that I am I am bringing back from the dead. The interior that I ordered was the "economy" interior cut from plywood instead of mahogany. I mention this because the design is altered slightly from the original.

The big mistake that I made in my original post is that I said "side rails" when I really should have said "side CLAMPS". I am installing the wood at this time.

I really need to proof read my posts before I submit them. Smile


Michael
1989 Outrage 22' Whaler Drive, 2014 Honda 250
 
Binkie
#9 Print Post
Posted on 05/25/10 - 7:55 AM
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I believe it's the gel coast that gets brittle and will chip off. Whether the fiberglass hull under the gelcoat gets brittle, who knows, unless some sort of a test is done, but it is not less strong, no need to worry about the service life of your old fiberglass boat.


Rich
 
CES
#10 Print Post
Posted on 05/25/10 - 8:29 AM
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Binkie, you are correct. However in the earlier model 13's the fiberglass is very thin in the interior of the boat. I agree that fiberglass does not get brittle over time however by using a screw to hold somehing into it is asking for trouble as the screw will pull itself loose over a short period of time. This is why it is essential to use an anchor nut or reinforce the fiberglass in the area you're mounting to.


Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
 
sdespop
#11 Print Post
Posted on 05/25/10 - 1:03 PM
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There is a 3/4"x7/8" piece of wood embedded along each side to screw your side rails into. When redoing my 15, I oversized the holes in the fiberglass, filled with epoxy, and redrilled. I agree with #10 SS with finish washers.



 
John Fyke
#12 Print Post
Posted on 05/25/10 - 3:00 PM
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The strength is in the glass not the gelcoat. Glass does get brittle over time. Whaler used screws without anchors. After time the fiberglass will get brittle and you might need to use other means to anchor anything which may be different from the original manufacturer.


John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury.
 
womms
#13 Print Post
Posted on 05/25/10 - 7:21 PM
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Once again, I am installing a wooden interior and I would like to know what size screws are used to secure the two side clamps (wooden side pieces that hold the two benches in place).

I really appreciate the advice on the rails and I will use it when that time comes.


Michael
1989 Outrage 22' Whaler Drive, 2014 Honda 250
 
John Fyke
#14 Print Post
Posted on 05/25/10 - 7:37 PM
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womms wrote:
Once again, I am installing a wooden interior and I would like to know what size screws are used to secure the two side clamps (wooden side pieces that hold the two benches in place).

I really appreciate the advice on the rails and I will use it when that time comes.


#10 Stainless Steel.


John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury.
 
womms
#15 Print Post
Posted on 05/26/10 - 5:16 AM
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Thanks.


Michael
1989 Outrage 22' Whaler Drive, 2014 Honda 250
 
jgortva
#16 Print Post
Posted on 05/26/10 - 6:12 AM
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Mike at Nautical Lumber makes a great kit, but beware of using your original whaler screw holes in the sides of the hull. When I got my kit I simply placed the old side rails over the new ones and drilled thru the old holes to mark the new ones. Well, the seats and console are 1.5 to 2 inches more forward than the stock seats and while this is good for weight displacement it caused my steering cable to come up short. Steering cables come in 1 foot intervals so I was left trying to deal with the extra cable. Also the console is narrower and if you have side rails your 15 or 16 inch destroyer steering wheel will cause you to hit your knuckles on the side rail. I had to go with a 13 inch wheel even though I mounted the helm as far toward the boats centerline as the console clearance would allow. I am not knocking the kit, but he ought to include instructions warning people that while this kit is advertised as an exact dimensional replacement , that is not true. All you have to do is put the new and old side by side and you will notice the same differences.

 
womms
#17 Print Post
Posted on 05/26/10 - 6:52 AM
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Thanks, jgortva. Unfortunately, there is no old interior to use as a guide. I'm pretty sure that I am over-thinking this whole process.

Drill holes. #10 SS screws. Done.


Michael
1989 Outrage 22' Whaler Drive, 2014 Honda 250
 
theo
#18 Print Post
Posted on 05/26/10 - 8:02 AM
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protek9543 wrote:
. . .Glass does get brittle over time.

. . .After time the fiberglass will get brittle . . .


??


Ted
1985 15' CC, 1994 60 hp Merc (Wednesday built), 5" jack plate
 
CES
#19 Print Post
Posted on 05/26/10 - 8:06 AM
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Theo, I agree....if fiberglass were to become brittle over time, our 40-50 year old boats would literally be falling apart by now. The fiberglass is VERY thin to start with compared to the later models.


Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
 
John Fyke
#20 Print Post
Posted on 05/26/10 - 3:36 PM
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CES wrote:
Theo, I agree....if fiberglass were to become brittle over time, our 40-50 year old boats would literally be falling apart by now. The fiberglass is VERY thin to start with compared to the later models.


Your boat is 44 years old. Do you believe the fiberglass is as strong as the day it was made?


John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury.
 
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