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rubrail hardware
jgstang67	#1  Posted on 05/12/10 - 4:15 AM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/04/10	I did a quick search on this and found alot on it but I have a question.. I have the replacement from Specialty Marine for my 74 13'. Removed the old rail , filled and sanded old rivet location holes. I want to get some input on the S.S. screw use vs. the OEM aluminum rivets. I plan on drilling new location holes about 1/4"-1/2" from original locations, how do the screws hold up over time? I just wonder if they will "hold" as well as the original rivets did. Thanks (either way I go I will seal with 3M sealant)
Ambush	#2  Posted on 05/12/10 - 4:47 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 32 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/05/09	I would opt for the rivets jg. There is not much purchase (backing wood) along the rim of the hull for screws to secure. The rivet back bears the load. I have 'repaired' a few spots along my rail with screws where wake, at a floating dock, tore the rub rail free. The screws didn't hold worth a dang over time. Good luck. Doug Doug Only in a Whaler!
CES	#3  Posted on 05/12/10 - 5:37 AM
Member Personal Page Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 2681 Comments: 7 Joined: 04/27/07	I'm currently using SS screws and they do end up boring out the holes and come loose over time. With a rivet, as Ambush states above, expands behind the fiberglass and will hold better over the long run. Cliff 1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
whalerman	#4  Posted on 05/12/10 - 8:14 AM
Member Posts: 540 Comments: 5 Joined: 06/26/07	Was working on this idea too. New rub rail came with screws and the old one is on with rivets. I am leaning tward the rivets for holding strength. My right hand says the same. Now where's my Mcmaster Carr catalouge ~ THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
John Fyke	#5  Posted on 05/12/10 - 1:03 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1307 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/06/06	The problem with older boats is that the glass gets brittle from the weather. If the channel for the rubrail isn't warmed up enough to straighten it out it will want to pull the rivets out when installing. John Fyke Re-Fit or Reef It 1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury.
jgstang67	#6  Posted on 05/12/10 - 2:41 PM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/04/10	I found "TRI-GRIP" blind rivets that look like they will work. "They provide a larger bearing surface that resists pull-out or cracking when set in plastics and other brittle surfaces" The rivet and mandrel material are both aluminum. They come in all sorts of sizes and head styles. Thanks for the input Edited by jgstang67 on 05/12/10 - 2:42 PM
whalerman	#7  Posted on 05/12/10 - 4:32 PM
Member Posts: 540 Comments: 5 Joined: 06/26/07	Yes, the reciever has to be warm and uncoiled to relax it. Otherwise you're mess'n with a huge slinky. THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
John Fyke	#8  Posted on 05/12/10 - 6:14 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1307 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/06/06	jgstang67 wrote: I found "TRI-GRIP" blind rivets that look like they will work. "They provide a larger bearing surface that resists pull-out or cracking when set in plastics and other brittle surfaces" The rivet and mandrel material are both aluminum. They come in all sorts of sizes and head styles. Thanks for the input Are you talking about the multi-grip rivets? Those are definitly better than regular rivets. John Fyke Re-Fit or Reef It 1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury.
Joe Kriz	#9  Posted on 05/12/10 - 6:17 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11434 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	http://www.hansonrivet.com/pdf2008/C3...36-C37.pdf
John Fyke	#10  Posted on 05/12/10 - 6:29 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1307 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/06/06	Gotcha Joe. John Fyke Re-Fit or Reef It 1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury.
Joe Kriz	#11  Posted on 05/12/10 - 6:34 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11434 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	I just did a Google search fro Tri-Grip Rivets. Those rivets would be great to use on the snaps for the cushions on the Igloo Coolers.
jgstang67	#12  Posted on 05/12/10 - 6:46 PM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/04/10	Joe Kriz wrote: I just did a Google search fro Tri-Grip Rivets. Those rivets would be great to use on the snaps for the cushions on the Igloo Coolers. Yup those are the ones I ordered !
whalerman	#13  Posted on 05/13/10 - 10:52 AM
Member Posts: 540 Comments: 5 Joined: 06/26/07	Found the same in Mcmaster Carr and thought the same thing about using them. How much per pkg and how many per pkg from Hansonrivet? THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
jgstang67	#14  Posted on 05/13/10 - 2:58 PM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/04/10	My local Auto body supplier does business with them. I ordered a minimum of 100 . I will let you know the cost.
gbmoore	#15  Posted on 05/20/10 - 9:32 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 15 Comments: 1 Joined: 04/03/09	Could anyone suggest the correct hole diameter and grip range? Or better yet, which part number would be the best tri-grip blind rivet from Hanson Rivet for attaching a new rub rail? Thanks!
jgstang67	#16  Posted on 05/22/10 - 5:24 AM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/04/10	gbmoore wrote: Could anyone suggest the correct hole diameter and grip range? Or better yet, which part number would be the best tri-grip blind rivet from Hanson Rivet for attaching a new rub rail? Thanks! gbmoore, This is how I did it, I had good results , only one "pullout" during installation. (prev. damage) Factory rivets from what I found = 3/16 dia. x 5/8 depth, which would be "about" a .250 max. grip range (decimal inch) The 3/16 dia. would be .1875 decimal inch. So I went with slightly larger .200 dia. x .770 depth with a grip range of .062 - .250 . I used a 13/64 bit. It was a bit snug but worked well with a LARGE rivet gun. The head size of .385 fit well. The tri-grip # was AD64ATF Hope This helps.
gbmoore	#17  Posted on 05/25/10 - 1:26 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 15 Comments: 1 Joined: 04/03/09	Thanks! I am sure that will save me alot of trial and error!
LabCab	#18  Posted on 05/26/10 - 6:34 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 100 Comments: 7 Joined: 01/17/09	FWIW the rubrail on my 1972 Whaler was more than a few years old and it had been installed with SS screws. It seemed to be holding fine and there was no water damage around the screw holes. I could not reuse it as the blue interior had been repainted at least twice without taping. A lot of paint overlap was on it. But the screws looked brand new. I've filled the old holes and will drill new ones when I install a new rail.
stellamaris	#19  Posted on 06/09/10 - 1:20 PM
Member Posts: 3 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/08/10	Hello all, I'm replacing my rails with a set of original factory three piece rails. I guess I'm lucky as the originals were still on the boat and the exsisting holes were not too hard to putty up for water protection. I'm using the 3/16 rivets with a little sealant during install for long term insurance. I have a question; how does one straighten out the rigid channel piece. It comes in a roll and has incredible memory when cut loose from the roll it stays in a roll. I currently have it hanging form a halyard after soaking in very hot water for ten minutes. This helped a little but is there a better way to straighten this rub rail out for mounting?
skiboat1	#20  Posted on 06/09/10 - 1:51 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 26 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/06/09	I just installed one on my 13'. I laid it in the direct sun for about 2 hours on a 80 degree day and it was very soft and flexible. skiboat1