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dripping keel wont fill and cant antifoul......
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| bostongirlwhaler |
Posted on 05/10/10 - 1:00 PM
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Hi, we have recently bought a 17' outrage 1993 with a Yamaha 100. Trying to get it ready for the summer and antifoul, as it sits on a mooring. There are some chips on the gelcoat on the keel, and we have tried to dry them with wicks (no drilling!!) and then fill them with epoxy, but the water keeps bubbling the epoxy before it has dried with just 1 drip......Thought it had worked but then the antifoul primer bubbled. We really want to play with this beautiful boat, and have already waited for it to stop dripping for about a month!
Questions:
1. Any ideas!
2. Do you think it would get worse if we kept it on the mooring over the summer without dealing with it properly, and try to dry it more during the winter?
3. Help! Please.....
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| John Fyke |
Posted on 05/10/10 - 1:08 PM
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You might be able to fill it with marine cauld for now and use it. 3M4200 should be fine.
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury. |
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| Bake |
Posted on 05/10/10 - 1:35 PM
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I would not think you want to soak it for another summer. You may have to open it up with a small drill and try to wick it and set a light under it for a little heat for a couple of days. If you can get it to stop or almost stop you can mix some marine tex up and make it till next winter and go at it again. Just my 2 cents. 98 more might get u a cup of coffee
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| MW |
Posted on 05/10/10 - 1:43 PM
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I'd try to clean it out a bit, and get some marine tex in there like "Bake" said...I had the same thing on my hull for two seasons and just ran the boat.
Matt |
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| Phil T |
Posted on 05/10/10 - 4:00 PM
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Welcome to WC.
I would 3rd Bake's suggestion.
If water is dripping out, you want to get as much of it out before you seal it. While it is extremely hard to get all of the water trapped in the foam out, getting it to stop dripping is good.
Welcome to the Outrage 17 owners group. While there aren't many of us, we are proud. Let us know if you have any questions.
If you have a chance create a personal page and post your story and photos of the boat.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| John Fyke |
Posted on 05/10/10 - 8:02 PM
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If water is dripping you would need to grind it out past the glass. It would have to be dried out and glassed back to make a secure fix. That could take some time depending on how saturated the foam is. You could lose a whole season of boating. Like you said. A quick remedy for now can post pone the repair until the season is over. You can address the issue in the off season. I am not a fan of Marinetex for repairs like that. It's bigger than it looks.
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury. |
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| Ambush |
Posted on 05/11/10 - 7:24 AM
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I agree with 'protek9543', the 'cancer' (soaked glass mat and foam) needs to be grinded back to a good substrate for permanent repair (winter project), but you can do the 'band-aid' thing to get you on the water this summer without the damage getting worse.
Is the boat on a trailer or stored outside now? If so, wait for a warm/hot day and roll the boat outside. Heating the hull will expand the water and it will drip out more than if it were indoors. If you cannot move the boat from storage use an ifrared lamp (can get at hardware store) on the keel side. Same theory of expansion (make sure you do not put the lamp closer than eighteen inches to the hull, the rays are HOT!).
When the water stops dripping, wipe the area with acetone. Then immediately coat the area with instant glue (Crazy Glue, Cyanoacrylate, etc.) and lightly sand the area with 220 grit sand paper. The 'dust' from the light sanding will mix with the glue and will harden lightning fast. This is the first barrier to seal the water that is still in the hull from wicking out. Wait ten to fifteen minutes to see if any drips develop. If they do, repeat the process from the acetone forward.
If the drips have stopped, as per the directions for Marine Tex, mix and apply some infrared heat to the mix before you apply it. The mix will be runny, but having been heated with the infrared lamp, it will harden quickly. 'Paint' on the first layer(s), do not attempt to 'fill' the damge at this point. You want to build up a good seal to keep the residual water up in the hull. After a few coats, mix the Marine Tex and fill the damaged area above grade and sand it down to contour, then paint. Be sure to wipe the area with acetone before painting with anti-foul. DO NOT APPLY ANY INFRARED HEAT TO THE FILL this will expand the water still trapped in the hull and it may be forced through the temporary repair.
Keeping your boat at mooring, you will not be able to monitor if your repair has held through the Summer months. But by next Fall, make plans to have the repair done properly.
My boat is on a trailer, garage kept. I have made repairs of small areas with this method and have just forgotten about them. It works. Being a 'Whaler' though. the rough ride in chop will flex these temp repairs and you are back to square one. Know too though I have had bad keel damage repaired by certified Whaler dealerships and still, those have lost integrity and once again started wicking water, and dripping. It is what it is; a "Boat".
Good luck!
Doug
Doug
Only in a Whaler! |
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| HarleyFXDL |
Posted on 05/11/10 - 7:34 AM
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You would be best to weigh your boat and compare this figure against the weight Whaler claims. This would give you an idea how much water is in the foam. Drilling a few holes won't remove all the water from the foam if it is saturated. It would be compared to sucking water through an apple. The suggestions above are right on.
Kevin
1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp.
If you think education is expensive, try ignorance
"Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman." |
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| Blue_Northern |
Posted on 05/11/10 - 9:14 AM
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You will never get all the water out of the foam so stop trying. I have a 73 outrage with the entire deck floor removed and have let it sit "drying out" for 2 years. I recently removed another section of foam to complete the tunnel install and the foam was still wet. The only option is to remove all the foam and build it back using traditional stringer and foam method or seal it up the best you can and run her till she won't run anymore. After a very extensive and long process of trying to dry out one of these old girls I have come to several conclusions.
1 - The main factor in buying a used Whaler is checking the weight of the hull to see how much water she is carrying. The all have water in them just how much is the question.
2 - I will never drill into another Whaler hull as long as I live. If I had a new boat I would try my best to never penetrate the deck or hull which allows water intrusion over the years.
3- If you have a boat with a little water in it do not worry about it and enjoy the boat. If you have excessive water - don't buy it or hope you have a big enough engine to get her on top.
These are great boats and I purchased mine past the point of a true restoration. My outrage is going to end up a pure custom refit job. Once I started cutting I just let it rip and will end up wit a more traditional fab method.
Rob
1973 Outrage/Lo-Pro Conversion |
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| Eastflorida |
Posted on 05/13/10 - 8:04 PM
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The ONLY way to remove all moisture is to apply a vacuum. If it isn't too bad, I agree with the other replies, don't worry about it.
Edited by Eastflorida on 05/13/10 - 8:05 PM |
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| John Fyke |
Posted on 05/13/10 - 10:35 PM
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Water wins no matter what.
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury. |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 05/13/10 - 11:22 PM
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That's for sure. Even the vac method hasn't been effective in removing water from foam. Once it gets wet, it's tenacious.
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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