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Cleaning Chrome & Stainless
cdnwhaler
#1 Print Post
Posted on 05/09/05 - 12:22 PM
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Now that the 12 days of rain has stopped I'm cleaning up this new / old boat and I've noticed the previous owner, when re-oiling or whatever it is, the gunwale teak every time, merely wiped over and covered all the fittings. Somewhere I've read about the proper solution to use to clean this off and somehwere I've also read about removing the fittings and letting them soak in a solution.

But do you think I can find the information now that I need it ?
NO !

Any ideas?

Peter


1984 Outrage 22
 
Jeff
#2 Print Post
Posted on 05/09/05 - 12:34 PM
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Peter it is no big deal to remove them from the gunwales. Once off you can let them sit in Laquer Thinner or paint thinner to remove the old finishes. Then you should polish them with a polishing wheel on a bench grinder. That is what I did. Metal polishing is a dirty, dirty job.


1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
 
cdnwhaler
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Posted on 05/09/05 - 1:30 PM
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Thanks Jeff,
I have all these thinners right here from my wood finishing hobby but was afraid I'd screw up the stainless and chrome. I'm quickly running out of time and I've realized I can't do everything my first year so the teak varnishing may have to wait. But I thought I could at least could shine up what's sitting on it.

Besides, after the last few days and all this horn and VRO horn testing talk going on I have one more thing to add to the list. And this sounds like a more important item.

Jeez, I'm glad I found all you guys.Grin

Peter
Well, most of the time I am.Wink


1984 Outrage 22
 
timh
#4 Print Post
Posted on 05/10/05 - 7:43 PM
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jeff, what kind of polishing wheel on my bench grinder should i use on my chrome and stainless pieces?

 
Jeff
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Posted on 05/11/05 - 5:57 AM
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I just got one from Home Depot that fit on the arbor of the grinder. It is a cotton wheel with a polishing compound that should be on the shelf next to the polishing wheels.


1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
 
cdnwhaler
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Posted on 05/22/05 - 6:08 PM
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Jeff, anyone, well I tried the lacquer thinner today a little success but not much. Then I tried Methyl Hydrate (alcohol) and Mineral spirits with no success. The lacquer thinnner will take forever. How long did you soak for for Jeff? And did you soak all types of fittings, chrome, marinium (like the hausel and the rub rail end cap), brass, stainless screws, Lee's rod holder's etc.

In my first post I mentioned I'd read some thing about soaking them in a solution. I found where I read it, in Rebecca Wittman's book on Brightwork. She recommends soaking the fittings in Citristrip. Well, I happen to have some of this around and I'm wondering if anyone has tried on it their fittings? The front of the bottle has, in large letters, Danger - Corrosive. Can you use it on all types of metal fittings?

Peter


Edited by cdnwhaler on 05/22/05 - 6:42 PM
1984 Outrage 22
 
cdnwhaler
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Posted on 05/23/05 - 9:12 AM
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Seems I simply needed to let it soak longer. I soaked some in Mineral spirits and some in Lacquer thinner overnight. The lacquer thinner items are good to go, mineral spirits not so good. But now I know.Smile

Peter


1984 Outrage 22
 
Jeff
#8 Print Post
Posted on 05/23/05 - 2:49 PM
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Spending your Victoria Day well Peter! Hope thing polishs up nicely!

BTW. You do not need to get every last bit off. The polishing wheel will get the stuff you miss.


1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
 
cdnwhaler
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Posted on 05/23/05 - 4:23 PM
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Hi Jeff,
To illustrate how bad it is... on an Outrage 22 of our vintage with Mills canvas there are two eyelets, or C-hooks if you like, screwed to the teak side by side. Well... I thought they were bronze/brass. Turns out they are shiney Perko chrome/stainless something fittings. It just took 24 hours to find out.Grin

The marinium seems to be another kettle of fish but research tells me this can be overcome as well.

Peter


Edited by cdnwhaler on 05/23/05 - 4:25 PM
1984 Outrage 22
 
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