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Teak- when to sand/re-finish?
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| beenfishin |
Posted on 05/04/10 - 9:44 AM
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I picked up my first whaler last week, a 1988 Montauk in pretty good shape (a separate 'happy birthday to me' post will be coming!
The boat had been sitting under a cover for the better part of 3 years, only being uncovered to fire up the motors every few months. As such, the teak on the hatches and console has all turned a light tan/gray. I've pulled all the wood off to give the entire deck a good scrubbing, and was wondering if I needed to sand the wood down, or just apply teak oil to bring back it's color? The surface is still nice and smooth, there a are a few random black spots (ballpoint pen sized) here and there. Pics will be coming to my personal page soon. Thanks in advance!
-Ben
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| tedious |
Posted on 05/04/10 - 9:54 AM
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Use a specialized teak cleaning product (West Marine has a number of them) and then the teak oil.
Don't forget the before and after pics!
Tim
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| bluewatercandy |
Posted on 05/04/10 - 3:10 PM
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Depending on which product you use, some of the soft grain will be removed leaving ridges. Some would say to just oil after this step, but my experience and personal preference is for the teak to be well sanded and smooth. Then you would apply oil or varnish. For the ultimate in durability and looks, its hard to beat a few sealer coats of West Epoxy and #207 special hardener then several coats of AwlGrip Awl-Brite. The 207 has a great color and adds a little UV protection, but it must be overcoated with another product for the best UV protection. Hard as glass and long lasting, you only need to recoat the Awl-Brite every 3 or 4 years depending on use and exposure. I did all the teak, minus the covering boards and cockpit deck, on my boat this way 3 years ago and the teak looks as good today as the day the finish was applied.
I am restoring an '86 Montauk and this is the way I will finish the teak on it...
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| mattroche |
Posted on 05/05/10 - 10:41 AM
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Last spring I completely redid all my teak on my '88 Montauk - with oil, not varnish. You're either a varnish guy or you're an oil guy. If you prefer the look of oil...
After having a furniture stripper remove all the previous owner's poly I cleaned the wood with Amazon Step 1 teak cleaner, in fact several cleanings. Then I put five coats of Amazon Golden teak oil on the wood with foam brushes.
Fortunately, the boat sits on the mooring with a mooring cover. By the end of the season the wood looked nearly as good as it did on Memorial Day weekend. See my personal page.
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| Guts |
Posted on 05/05/10 - 11:07 AM
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mattroche wrote:
Last spring I completely redid all my teak on my '88 Montauk - with oil, not varnish. You're either a varnish guy or you're an oil guy.
Don' forget those of us that like Semco® sealer..
Guts/AKA/Kim |
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| beenfishin |
Posted on 05/05/10 - 5:05 PM
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Beautiful boat mattroche, that's definitely the look I'm going for! Thanks guys for the tips, the cleaning/prep begins tonight!
-Ben
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| A Little Madness |
Posted on 05/09/10 - 6:03 AM
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If your teak is just faded out then the little black spots are most likely mildew. Simple fix - dillute some bleach 50-50 and wash down with a SOFT brush so as to minimize the wood loss. Let sit for about 5 minutes in the sun then wash off generously with fresh water. Let dry thoroughly. Then wash down generously w/Acetone (wear rubber gloves) to remove any moisture and oils. You're now at the point of decision on sanding. If the surface is truly smooth (fingernails don't catch on grooves, no real ridges on fingertips - you'll be able to tell), then a very light sanding with 220 or finer grit will do just to give an adhesive surface. If it is rougher than you'd like, start with a 100 and work your way to a minimum of 220. Same as before, wash down w/ water, dry, then Acetone. You are now ready for you surface protection of choice.
I've taken all the teak on our whaler down like this and then applied West System expoxy, at least 3 layers totally encapsolating the wood. This seals all moisture from entering, which is what removes any protection you apply. Thus the Acetone preps to make sure there's no moisture before sealing the teak w/West System. Dillute the 1st application 30-40% with thinner and soak the teak good, then run over with a squegee to force deep into any cracks, etc. Then your next 2-3 coats, sanding in between. As such, you will have a beautiful surface. I then apply 3-4 coats of Epiphanes Woodfinish High Gloss. As long as you do it within 72 hours, there's NO SANDING between coats...a huge advantage in time and effort. What this does is allows you to go back once per year, burnish the surface and apply a couple of coats of the Epiphanes and you're done for another year, versus sanding down to bare wood each year, etc. A lot of effort initially, but do it right and the maintenance is great. You can look at our personal page for the results. Best shot may be of the rear seat (ex-swim platform) that I did last year. Good Luck
Chris & Dale Schnell
"A Little Madness" - 1989 Montauk 17' |
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| cohasset73 |
Posted on 05/09/10 - 9:16 AM
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Using teak cleaner is hell on wood. My personal method is to remove oxidized surface with fine SS brush and steel wool then wipe on Watco teak oil. Varnish is too high maintenance for me.
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| Terp |
Posted on 05/27/10 - 5:08 AM
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Guts & Mattroche, nice boats.
Question... the wood on your console hatches and captain's bench is teak or mahogany? I have a '90 Montauk and all the wood was varnished when I acquired it. When I re-ordered new cooler cleats last year the seller told me the only teak on the '90 Montauks was the sump cover. Misinformation? Or maybe I misunderstood him. Was there a choice of woods for those parts? I'm going to refinish and if the parts are teak I'll oil, but if they are mahogany I will varnish.
John
1990 Montauk w/ 100H Evinrude V4 |
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| beenfishin |
Posted on 05/27/10 - 9:29 AM
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From what I researched, the only mahogany is the cooler cleats, my sump cover had been replaced with a varnished piece of plywood so I can't speak for it's original material.
By the way, I got my boat in the water for its maiden voyage this weekend, ran like a champ and looks like a million bucks! If I ever get time to upload pics I'll share them.
-Ben
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| Guts |
Posted on 05/27/10 - 9:35 AM
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Terp
The wood on my boat is all teak, cooler cleats bubinga, sump cover is a ½' piece of cutting board like you would find in a cooking store. As you can see in last picture on PP.
Edited by Guts on 05/27/10 - 9:35 AM
Guts/AKA/Kim |
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| mattroche |
Posted on 06/07/10 - 5:11 AM
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Only the cooler cleats on my boat is Mahagony. Aside from the Mahagony vaneered plywood over my sump everything else is teak.
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| kimolina |
Posted on 06/07/10 - 1:04 PM
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Everybody does teak different. The best i have found is spraying oxylic acid (it is a powder you mix with water from westmarine) spray a little on teak after wetting with water. Brush with a soft bristled brush with the grain. Rinse with water and after dry use lemon oil to give rich teak look. I have cound it doesn't attract dirt like teak oils do. You can then frshen up at anytime with a quick spray and wipe with a rag.
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