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1970 restoration...
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| longbow73 |
Posted on 04/29/10 - 6:44 AM
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I assume its an 80's because I got it with an 84' 115 v4 evinrude. The boat is gutted except for engine controls and some cables. I also assume its a Montauk because of the photos i've seen. Where should I start on this boat? The motor is fresh and has been rebuilt so i'm not worried about it. I want to go back original with it as much as possible so where do I go from here? Should I start sanding the hull? Should it be painted after or gel coated. Its been sitting next to a barn for 10 years so you can imagine how it must look. Any help y'all can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Edited by Joe Kriz on 04/30/10 - 12:19 PM |
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| Fishmore |
Posted on 04/29/10 - 7:09 AM
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These boats have a thick gelcoat so power wash it and wet sand it then compound it. If there is minor damage repair with gelcoat. If there is major spider cracking then search this site for what others have done.
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| longbow73 |
Posted on 04/29/10 - 7:16 AM
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Yep da boat has lots of cracking and chips. One small hole close to bow-trailer loop. About 1/4 inch dia. and half inch deep. So I guess all of the gel coat needs to come off.
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 04/29/10 - 11:09 AM
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longbow73 wrote:
I assume its an 80's because I got it with an 84' 115 v4 evinrude..
We can never assume anything.
See this thread:
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...;pid=60841
It is very easy to determine the year once you locate the numbers on the boat.
It's much easier to help someone if we know the correct model and especially the year.
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| longbow73 |
Posted on 04/29/10 - 1:52 PM
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well i've crawled all over this thing and have yet to find any numbers...where should I look to find them? I'm desperate to find them.
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 04/29/10 - 2:10 PM
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Has the boat been painted inside?
The Stencil numbers are usually under the engine bracket on the inside of the transom.
It is also possible they are inside the bow locker.
If this is a model after 1974, then you should also have a metal HIN plate on the outside of the transom. However, someone could have removed this tag.
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| longbow73 |
Posted on 04/29/10 - 5:31 PM
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I do something stenciled on the inside of the transom I cany really make it out...
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 04/29/10 - 5:55 PM
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Before we get too carried away here,
1. What color is the interior hull?
Blue or White?
Have you looked at the rest of the Montauks here?
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...lbum_id=14
You might also look through the personal page section. Many users show their Stencil number with a photo.
http://www.whalercentral.com/viewpage...page_id=65
Here's one photo that shows the Stencil below the engine bolts and above the drain.
http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...r_id=12601
Your drain(s) may be located in a different place as this is a 1974 model.
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| longbow73 |
Posted on 04/29/10 - 6:03 PM
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I t has a blueish green interior and I have looked at some of the other models of boats they kinda look the same for some reason. Looks lie the first letter on the transom is a b
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 04/29/10 - 6:13 PM
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It sounds like this is not a Montauk nor a 1980's model.
The first Montauks in 1973 had a white interior. Other models prior to this had blue interiors.
We need to have you investigate much further to find the year and model of your boat.
Can you put a photo in your personal page and show us?
Also, look through the entire Whaler Model Specifications section at the 16' models. Maybe something will look familiar to you.
Also, there are no small or lowercase letters like a or b...
These letters are capital or uppercase like A or B...
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=61
You need to help us so we can help you.
Edited by Joe Kriz on 04/29/10 - 6:16 PM |
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| longbow73 |
Posted on 04/29/10 - 6:45 PM
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I went out and looked at it again and I think it says 3Ai4g1 thats my best guess...Ill get the camera tomorrow and see what i can come up with.
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 04/29/10 - 7:02 PM
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If that is the case, then the 3A would have 4 numbers after it and no letters.
3A14?1
The g would be a number and that would make this a 1970 model.
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| longbow73 |
Posted on 04/30/10 - 6:33 AM
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That's great!!! Thanks Joe !!! Maybe that g is a 6 what would that tell us? I was already to go snap some shots of her but it looks like its about to rain pretty bad...I have plenty of time now because of the oil in the gulf...they wont let us work with that stuff floating around my area.
Edited by longbow73 on 04/30/10 - 6:37 AM |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 04/30/10 - 12:18 PM
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Well, as you can see we sure are glad we didn't assume what year it was.
It appears to be somewhere around a 1970 model.
The Good News is that it is a Boston Whaler Smirkless 16 hull.
The Bad News is that it is not a Montauk.
At this point, we can't tell what model it is because the models are determined by the interior which obviously is no longer there.
So, at this time, it is just a 16 hull.
If you can determine for a fact what your Stencil number reads, you could send that number to Chuck Bennett at whaler.com and he could tell you what model it was when it left the factory.
However, if you aren't going to go back with a factory interior, then you would be customizing it making it a "Custom" 16 model....
For now, we will call it just like we do with all other customized models of this vintage.
A "Custom 16" model....
Look at all the Custom 16 models in the personal page section. This may give you ideas about consoles and seats that other members have used.
Or, you could buy a replica of an original interior from our sponsors or build them yourself from plans in our downloads section.
From the looks of the cleats on the floor, I would guess this model was once a;
1. Nauset
2. Eastport
3. Sakonnet
Looks like you got a lot of fun and work ahead of you.
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| longbow73 |
Posted on 04/30/10 - 12:21 PM
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I am slowly but surely figuring her out. I have it narrowed down to a katama,nauset,sakonnet and a eastport. I am wondering what are the differences between these boats and are the parts and acc. interchangeable. I am new to boston whalers and have an overwhelming urge to restore and modify (the interior just a bit) this boat. Any advice where to start and what I should look out for would be greatly appreciated. I'm keeping the motor its been completely rebuilt.
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| longbow73 |
Posted on 04/30/10 - 12:24 PM
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Yes sir, I cant wait to get started. I really appreciate the help. thinking wood rps and maybe white and stainless console.
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| longbow73 |
Posted on 05/01/10 - 9:27 AM
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I'm thinking of breaking out the orbital and da palm sander with a bag full of paper to start it up...I wonder if rub downs every once in awhile with something would help the finish. I cant wait...if you notice on one of the pictures of the bow of the boat...upper left corner i spent 5 minutes with some wet/dry and made a big difference.Is all this sanding done before gel coating???Is gel that much more expensive than painting? How much better is gel?I'm just thinking with the best epoxy primer and marine grade paint would make this thing really pop...What y'all think???
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| kamie |
Posted on 05/01/10 - 12:31 PM
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wash and wet stand the interior and exterior and see what she looks like. The wet sanding is done instead of paint or new gelcoat to refinish the current gelcoat. Unless the gelcoat is really really crazed and cracked all over, avoid replacing it with paint if you can. It's lasted 40 years, you won't get that from paint.
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| Binkie |
Posted on 05/01/10 - 1:25 PM
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Looking at the pictures you posted, you have too many spider and gelcoat cracks to be wetsanding. All that will do is clean up the existing cracked gelcoat. Get out the orbital and a bunch of 120 grit paper,(the best you can buy) and sand the boat as smooth as possible Check my post on this thread
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...post_60956, and get that boat ready to paint or re gel coat. If painting I would go with AwlGrip which is a two part polyurethane paint, There are other similar paints but AwlGrip has been around the longest, and has a proven track record. I have been using it for over 30 years. BTW it is expensive, but when you find out the work it is to make the hull perfect for paining, you will want the job to last. You can re gel coat instead, costs less, and takes less painting skill, but requires a lot of sanding and polishing to bring up the shine, and the prep work is the same. It is questionable whether gelcoat is more durable. Million dollar yachts are painted with AwlGrip. Anyway, I have a feeling you know your way around a spray gun. LOL
Rich |
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| longbow73 |
Posted on 05/03/10 - 9:45 AM
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Thanks binkie! I'm going to check out some different papers now...
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