Battery Cable Size?
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coopgraphic |
Posted on 03/11/10 - 6:27 PM
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I am planning on replacing the battery cables (dual battery setup) and there are several sizes being used from the previous owner.
1. What size cable should I be using?
2. Should I use the standard battery clamp to the post or use the threaded terminal? The threaded terminal is easier to work with but I dont know if its a good enough connection.
-chris
Chris Cooper |
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Phil T |
Posted on 03/11/10 - 7:38 PM
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Chris -
I use and recommend the automotive clamp style. There is a better connection with the cable and post, in my opinion.
If your batteries are in the stern, I would suggest 6 AWG wire since it is such a short run.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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coopgraphic |
Posted on 03/11/10 - 7:50 PM
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Ok, they are in the stern so that would work. thanks for the quick reply.
-chris
Chris Cooper |
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ibikeak |
Posted on 03/11/10 - 9:29 PM
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Just replaced the main battery cables as part of a complete re-wire of my 22 Revenge. Main battery cables are 1/0 for my dual battery system with the batteries located midship.
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Fishmore |
Posted on 03/11/10 - 10:49 PM
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If I were wiring for a 150HP motor I would use size 2 although you could probably get by with 4.
In a short run it does not cost much more.
I am assuming starter draw on your 150HP motor at 120 amps (check your shop manual)
I am assuming cable run at 6' doubled (standard practice)
CM=(K x I x L) / E
CM = Circular Area of Conductors
K = 10.75 (Constant representing the mil-foot resistance of copper)
I = Current (amps)
L = Length (feet)
E = Voltage drop (in volts) (.36 is accepted marine practice for 12V)
(10.75) (120) (12) divided by .36 = 43,000 circular mil area
AWG Wire Specs
Wire Size - Cir.Mil. Area - Max Amps
8 ---------- 16,800 --------- 80
6 ---------- 26,600 --------- 120
4 ---------- 42,000 --------- 160
2 ---------- 66,500 --------- 210
1 ---------- 83,690 --------- 245
1/0 ------ 105,600 --------- 285
2/0 ------ 133,000 --------- 330
3/0 ------ 167,800 --------- 385
4/0 ------ 211,600 --------- 445
Threaded is fine as long as you use Nylock nuts and not the wing nuts that are usually provided.
Edited by Fishmore on 03/11/10 - 11:00 PM |
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coopgraphic |
Posted on 03/12/10 - 3:50 AM
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Ok, I think I'll use #2...with it being an older motor, it doesn't always fire right away so I dont want to skimp on powering the starter. Thanks for the explanation...this really helps.
-chris
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Turpin |
Posted on 03/12/10 - 6:10 AM
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Last year I also wanted to replace my battery cables. I was floored at by the price they wanted for that cable. I went out shopping bought a set of good quality jumper cables with either 2 or 4 gauge wire (It was whatever the stock was) for close to half the price. I cut the clamps off, added new connectors, a little shrink wrap and I was back in business.
I'm not trying to be a cheap-o but rather cost efficient.
I don't know if there is a difference in coatings used but my boat is trailered and doesn't get bombarded by the marine elements.
Just an option I'm throwing out there.
Edited by Turpin on 03/12/10 - 6:14 AM
1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude
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George More |
Posted on 03/12/10 - 6:37 AM
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Battery cables are typically not a good source for marine type wiring. The main reason is that the wiring is not "tinned". Tinned type of wiring is common when purchasing marine cables as the tin coated wire will last much longer. It is highly recommended to make sure to not only use the right size, but also to make sure that the wire is a stranded tinned wire due to vibration and turns and bends in a boat.
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ibikeak |
Posted on 03/12/10 - 9:35 AM
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There are some things, although few, that I might take short cuts on....however the cables from my main battery banks to my engine would definitely not be one of them. i know the cables are expensive (about $7 a foot), but in my humble opinion, the importance of them can not be over emphasized. I run my Revenge 22 off shore in Southeast Alaska, and the last thing I want is an electrical failure or for the matter, any mechanical failure.
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Derwd24 |
Posted on 03/12/10 - 9:45 AM
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Check out this site below, was formerly Best Boat Wire. Also says free shipping on US orders...
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%2...y%20Cable/
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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HarleyFXDL |
Posted on 03/12/10 - 10:07 AM
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"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after low pricing is forgotten!".
Edited by HarleyFXDL on 03/12/10 - 10:09 AM
Kevin
1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp.
If you think education is expensive, try ignorance
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fredbrillo |
Posted on 03/13/10 - 6:25 AM
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Agree....Id use the biggest gauge marine wire available...the additional cost is minor...Id go # 2 ...no smaller than #4..
Right now Ive got #4 running about 14' to my battery inside the console...works well....Wish I could have found #2 at the time. I would have used that instead of #4.
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Phil T |
Posted on 03/13/10 - 8:11 AM
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Chris -
Take a look at the engine wire posts and engine grommet. Whatever wire you select, you need to keep in mind space and size requirements.
If you have a master battery switch, check it to see if it can handle the cable size.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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coopgraphic |
Posted on 03/13/10 - 9:20 AM
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Hmmm...good point. I do have a switch and to be honest, I would not have even given the size what it can take a thought. The switch is older but still works. Do these wear...is it worth replacing it while redoing the battery wiring?
Chris Cooper |
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Blackduck |
Posted on 03/13/10 - 10:07 AM
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Using a cable size larger than is required, really accomplishes nothing. If your run is no more than 6 feet or so, go with 6 AWG. This is what the engine manufacturer probably provided your engine with in the first place. The grommet in the engine is sized for that size cable. Spend your money on the best marine grade tined cable. By the way, the Genuine Dealz guy is great, good wire, service, and cable lug installation.
Edited by Blackduck on 03/13/10 - 10:11 AM
Walter Reynolds
1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha |
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