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Teak Restoration
barrydm	#1  Posted on 02/01/10 - 7:27 AM
Member Posts: 13 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/30/09	I am in the process of partially restoring a 75 Montauk with my 13yr son. We removed all the wood and did a lot of sanding this weekend. On one side of the RPS, the teak is extremely weathered and in pretty rough shape. The boat hasn't seen oil or varnish in several years and has been sitting on a salt water mooring. Despite this, the other side, and front and back, look great all sanded up, as does most of the other wood pieces. Has anybody come across a good teak wood filler or have any suggestions on bringing this back to her former glory? Thanks, Dave 1975 Montauk
barrydm	#2  Posted on 02/02/10 - 9:06 AM
Member Posts: 13 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/30/09	Another question I thought of after reading another thread by the same name - I plan on using Petit's Captains Varnish but was wondering if I should use a teak oil first? I doubt the wood has seen any oil or finish for a dozen years and has been on a saltwater mooring each season. I don't know if this would add some oils back into the wood or if it would make the varnish less likely to bond to the wood? I'm really a novice at this stuff so any input is appreciated. Regards, Dave 1975 Montauk
Blackduck	#3  Posted on 02/02/10 - 9:27 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 519 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/25/06	Once teak is weathered to the point that the softer part os the wood is eroded, you can really only do one of two things. If the worn areas are not that deep, than you can sand the surface down to meet the low areas. Otherwise, you would have to replace the worn boards. Given the condition of your wood, I think you might be better of with a product like Semco teak sealer, in natural. If you varnish with a high gloss finish, you are only going to highlight your woods imperfections. You could try a paste filler, but the finished job is going to look exactly like what it is, filled. Walter Reynolds 1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
barrydm	#4  Posted on 02/02/10 - 10:16 AM
Member Posts: 13 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/30/09	Thanks Blackduck, I hadn't considered that the gloss might highlight the imprefections in the wood. 1975 Montauk
George More	#5  Posted on 02/02/10 - 10:31 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 18 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/10/09	Is it teak or mahogany? From my memory a lot of the whaler's used mahogany as the wood source. If the wood is in decent condition you can clean it with teak cleaner 2 part method. then I would recommend sanding. You can use some of the dust generated along with some glue (epoxy) to make a filling slurry. Make sure to build it up past what is needed, so it can be sanded back smooth. After this, I recommend using West system epoxy with multiple coats to fill the pours of the wood and seal it in entiretly. If the grain is damaged, best not to waste any time and just replace the wood. Much easier and you will be much happier. Filing only really works for splits or cracks or to fill screw holes. NOTE: Dont do a teak oil if you are planning to varnish or coat to give glossy finish. The oil will not allow the finish material to adhere correctly. Teak oil or teak sealer should only be used if varnishing or epoxy coating is not used. Also the teak oil will last a few months, and then it will need to be cleaned and recoated. West makes a special catalyst for this so make sure to use it so your epoxy stays clear. It is important to do many coats of this to build the protection to a smooth level. No real simple method here, other than apply, let it dry, then sand. Each time make sure to use a board type backing or using an orbital to insure that the level builds to a consistent film. After this, use Awlgrip Clear or the Bright work version for extended protection. If you do this, typically it will take 4-6 coats of epoxy with sanding between each layer, and then a couple of coats of Awlbrite with sanding between the epoxy and wet sanding between the 1-2 coat of Awlbrite. By doing this it will last a long time before you will have to recoat. Edited by George More on 02/02/10 - 10:35 AM
barrydm	#6  Posted on 02/02/10 - 10:45 AM
Member Posts: 13 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/30/09	Thanks George. The RPS is definitely teak. Most of it is sanded but the wood is very weathered and somewhat eroded. Even some of the parts that sanded pretty well and are generally flat have some gray color in some of the groves. 1975 Montauk
Finnegan	#7  Posted on 02/02/10 - 12:16 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	It sounds like you haven't sanded the teak enough. Before attempting varnishing, all gray, and any grooving, has to be sanded down smooth. You could easily end up taking 1/16" off board thickness, but don't wroyy about it. Use 3M "Sandblaster" sand paper (the best sandpaper on the market) and use #80(green) or #100(maroon) on an orbital sander. Finish up with #150. The worst varnish jobs I have seen are because of totally inadequate sanding preparation. The bottom board of the RPS and the inside of the top, incidentally, are mahogany, and need varnish, even if the rest of the unit is being oiled. Varnish is the way to go in my opinion. After years of the sand/oil, sand/oil, sand/oil routine, I finally got smart and switched to varnish. Done right, it lasts almost indefinitely with only an easy touch up every 5 years, and the wood always looks dark and shiny, and cleans up easily. Besides, you don't sand through the wood thickness as you do with oiling. For varnish, choose premium Z-Spar Flagship instead of the cheaper Captains. It has MUCH better UV protection. In varnishing teak, the cost of the varnish is nothing compared to labor involved. I also pre-stain my teak with ZAR #120 Natural Teak oil based stain for additional UV protection. You can see a varnished RPS here: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v42...an0003.jpg
George More	#8  Posted on 02/03/10 - 7:14 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 18 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/10/09	Based on my research the wood is mahogany. They look very similar, however mahogany has a bit of a deeper color. I can tell you that I have seen wood look almost identical and then realize it is something else. Sand until you get good fresh wood. Hand sanding most likely will not be the right route at least time wise. use a DA, or orbital sander. Becareful not to use a belt sander as it will take off material very quickly and is difficult to control on small applications. Varnish works well, but the method I recommended is now the new standard for most yacht construction. Having been an ex-yacht captain, constant varnish work was always needed, if the a boat was exposed to the sun for duration. Based on what I described, you wont have to touch the wood work for a long time and with the epoxy, it will hold the wood tight and reduce expansion and contraction. Regardless of what you do, the build process is important and making sure that you coat to get rid of the grain of the wood, insures you that the wood is properly covered. Good woodwork is very beautiful, but to make it look right, time is definitely needed.
arthureld	#9  Posted on 02/03/10 - 2:11 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 735 Comments: 7 Joined: 02/15/07	Thanks for the great suggestions guys. I'm sure this subject has been covered a million times but I am finally getting around to working on my wood and you guys have covered all of my questions. The last coats of Awlbrite sounds like a good way to go.
barrydm	#10  Posted on 02/04/10 - 6:54 AM
Member Posts: 13 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/30/09	Sounds like I need to do more sanding. I have been using an orbital sander and have taking it down quite a bit. Like I said, the wood has been significantly weathered. Taking off 1/16th may not be enough to get all the gray. I may be down 3/32" or more before I'm done. I've been using 120 grit sandpaper but sounds like I need to get a little more coarse. I checked with BW before I started, the wood on the 1975 RPS is definitely teak. You can definitely see the difference between the reddish color of mahogany and the light golden color of the teak. Thanks all for the help. 1975 Montauk
arthureld	#11  Posted on 02/04/10 - 4:07 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 735 Comments: 7 Joined: 02/15/07	Is it possible to bleach and stain the teak if you can't sand all of the grey off?
Guts	#12  Posted on 02/04/10 - 7:56 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 612 Comments: 8 Joined: 11/21/08	I have done the two part thing on my teak then sanded it. Used "SEMCO" sealer as you can see on my personal page. If that is what you are talking about Athureld?
George More	#13  Posted on 02/05/10 - 12:20 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 18 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/10/09	Based on what I see, you may want to just get yourself some new pieces. If the teak is still grey in color, the UV has gotten to it. You will need to continue to sand to get it to a homogenous color, otherwise staining/sealing, or varnishing will really only give you splotchy results.
arthureld	#14  Posted on 02/05/10 - 3:09 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 735 Comments: 7 Joined: 02/15/07	George, when you say "based on what I see", are you talking about my gunnels? I guess I need to start by sanding off a good amount with some 80 grit to see what I got. I kind of doubt I will replace my gunnels so I will get them the best I can and go from there. Yours looks nice Guts. What was it like when you started? I will dig up more info on this 2 part you mention.
arthureld	#15  Posted on 02/06/10 - 5:14 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 735 Comments: 7 Joined: 02/15/07	Searching for 2 part teak cleaner I came across this info. http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/...sey/29.htm They give some milder options to try before jumping into the 2 part.
Guts	#16  Posted on 02/06/10 - 11:48 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 612 Comments: 8 Joined: 11/21/08	arthureld Here is what I used a two part cleaner made by SEMCO. The price can very so shop around. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/...1&BASE http://www.semcoteakproducts.com/semc...oducts.htm natural sealer http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/..._sku=46750
Guts	#17  Posted on 02/06/10 - 11:56 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 612 Comments: 8 Joined: 11/21/08	arthureld wrote:Yours looks nice Guts. What was it like when you started? I will dig up more info on this 2 part you mention. The only piece I had to change was the piece with the gauges w/ the new OB every thing was different. all the other pieces are original and were very gray. used the two part let it dry and sanded the parts and used the natural Semco sealer. I really like that stuff after using teak oil boo not for me yuck on the teak oil thing. Just my opinion OK.
barrydm	#18  Posted on 02/07/10 - 10:01 AM
Member Posts: 13 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/30/09	George, When making the slurry with the teak dust, what type of clue would I use? I'm assuming the off white color of wood clue wouldn't give me the right look? Thanks, Dave 1975 Montauk
George More	#19  Posted on 02/08/10 - 7:26 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 18 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/10/09	My wood was brand new and the parts that I have are custom made. "based on what I see" comment is from your previous threads and your description rather than literal pic of your wood. A slurry can really only be used to fill holes, or cracks. It cannot be used to fill grain issues or UV damaged teak. When I make my slurries, I mix West System clear epoxy with the dust mixed into it. When completed it is hard to tell a seam is there. So in conclusion, if you are still having your wood look grey in appearance, try the 2 part teak cleaner. After that sand with 80- grit to get a smooth profile. If you cant get it smooth, then most like replacement of the wood, is the next step.