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Deck removed
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| HarleyFXDL |
Posted on 01/25/10 - 1:42 PM
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Well, I got the deck out and noticed some cracks in the resin. I peeled up some of the cracked resin to inspect the plywood underneath. Other than being mildly moist, the plywood appeared to be very solid. At this point I figures I would grind down the spots with the cracks and re-apply the resin. Any other thoughts? Is there any reason to rip everything out and replace the fiberglass/plywood?
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1024
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1025
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1026
Edited by Joe Kriz on 01/25/10 - 1:53 PM
Kevin
1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp.
If you think education is expensive, try ignorance
"Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman." |
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| Bake |
Posted on 01/25/10 - 2:09 PM
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The glass on the underside of that lid does not look like it is bonded to the wood very well. It is hard to tell from the pictures but if it is not bonded to the wood you need cut the class off and encase the plywood with good glass.
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| 510racer |
Posted on 01/25/10 - 2:11 PM
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Im new around here and not familiar with your project, Did you remove a section of your floor or deck or just the glass on top?
If the wood is sound, then there is no reason you can't reuse it, just make sure it's completely dry.
If it's completely removed, Depending on what your final goal is, it may be easier to use a new piece of wood.
If you are going to reuse it, make sure to remove any loose or delaminated glass first and go from there.
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| Blackduck |
Posted on 01/25/10 - 2:14 PM
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Kevin-Cover looks fine. As long as it is nice and solid when you walk on it, your approach seems fine. Hey, glad to see you got going on this, spring will be here before you know it, at least for us old guys. Time sure flies by.
Walter Reynolds
1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha |
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| kamie |
Posted on 01/25/10 - 3:00 PM
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The goal is to coat all the plywood with resin. you can grind down what's cracked, and recoat. Make sure there is a good covering around the access pannels.
While you have the tank cover off, check the rigging tunnel for spots of thing glass / gelcoat. I sanded those and filled with marine-tex. they won't be seen and you just want them water tight.
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| HarleyFXDL |
Posted on 01/25/10 - 3:29 PM
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There are some spots that the glass is not adhered to the wood. The glass/resin should be sticking to the wood? If not, what is the best way to remove the existing resin/fiberglass? I thought I woul;d set a saw to the resin thickness and peel it off, let the wood air out, them reglass with....woven? Chop? Mat?
Kevin
1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp.
If you think education is expensive, try ignorance
"Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman." |
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| Bake |
Posted on 01/25/10 - 3:40 PM
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I think you are on the right track. I think if you set a saw shallow and cut some cross sections you will find the glass peels right off the ply wood. when you get it off let the wood dry then paint the resin on the wood then lay the glass on there. make sure you work the glass out make sure to work all the air out with a roller. chopped mat should be fine I would think the I do not think you need the strength of the woven. I might be wrong it is hard to tell from here but I really do not think the glass is bonded with the wood.
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| HarleyFXDL |
Posted on 01/25/10 - 3:50 PM
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What is the price difference between woven and chop? If it isn't that much, woven can't hurt. How many layers of glass should be laid down?
Kevin
1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp.
If you think education is expensive, try ignorance
"Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman." |
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| 510racer |
Posted on 01/25/10 - 4:32 PM
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I just payed $3.40 for 1.5oz Chopped Strand Mat, and $6.70 for 1708 Biaxial w/Mat, 50" wide, price is per yard. Last time I bought woven roving (a while ago) it was about $5.00 / yd.
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| HarleyFXDL |
Posted on 01/25/10 - 5:44 PM
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How many layers of glass are needed?
Edited by HarleyFXDL on 01/25/10 - 5:50 PM
Kevin
1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp.
If you think education is expensive, try ignorance
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| kamie |
Posted on 01/25/10 - 6:27 PM
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you don't need that much, one layer of glass. It' the resin that will keep the water out. You don't want to make it too heavy.
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| HarleyFXDL |
Posted on 01/25/10 - 6:56 PM
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So if all I need is one layer, isn't it best to go with woven? Not sure about the different types of glass.
Kevin
1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp.
If you think education is expensive, try ignorance
"Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman." |
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| 510racer |
Posted on 01/25/10 - 8:20 PM
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It's not that critical unless you think you need added strength, use whatever your local supplier has. Biaxial, woven (8 or 10oz) or mat. One layer is plenty, if you want strength, use 1708 or 2408 biaxial, it has 8oz mat sewn on the back so it is essentially 2 layers. The mat backing goes towards the wood and bonds better to the wood because it is so flat compared to woven mat.
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| Bake |
Posted on 01/26/10 - 2:09 AM
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How many layers is like asking what kind of cloth. You really do not need woven as that is more for structial work. That being said one layer of woven vs. on layer of chopped mat is two different things. I would think one to two layers of chopped mat would be plenty as stated above all you really want to do is seal the wood.
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| HarleyFXDL |
Posted on 01/26/10 - 5:31 AM
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Thanks all, now I just need to get all the glass off of the wood and let it dry. Looks easy in some spots, just use a scraper. The hard spots might need a chisel.
Kevin
1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp.
If you think education is expensive, try ignorance
"Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman." |
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| 510racer |
Posted on 01/26/10 - 5:33 AM
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It's hard to give proper advise without seeing what needs to be repaired in person. Does the hatch flex some when walking on it, is it a large, unsupported area (no cross supports over the tank)?
A strengthening laminate would be better suited on the top side. If you put a rigid layer on the bottom and someone jumps on the hatch, the flex could cause it to delaminate. If the same layer was on the top it would be less likely to delaminate.
If your main goal is to waterproof, then no fiberglass is needed. With that being said, polyester resin does not create a waterproof layer.
you have a few options.
1. Paint it with an epoxy paint, the same thing you would paint the outside of your boat with.
2. If it already has a coat of polyester from the factory (it should but maybe BW missed a step?), give it a light sanding and put on a coat of gel coat.
3. If you want some added strength, put a fiberglass layer and gel coat or epoxy paint on top.
If it were my hatch and it didn't need strengthening, I would use whatever I had laying around or is cheapest to paint on for waterproofing.
If it needed strengthening, I would use 1208 biaxial, light woven (10oz or less), whatever is available, topped of with gelcoat. I have this stuff laying around.
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| 510racer |
Posted on 01/26/10 - 5:39 AM
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Using a circular saw like someone suggested and setting it to just cut through the glass works well. Just cut it into strips and peel them off, you may need the chisel in tough spots.
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| RevengeFamily |
Posted on 01/26/10 - 5:49 AM
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Hey Kevin,
I did the same job on my 1990 Revenge last spring. It had the exact problems your Outrage has. Bottom side of the deck had wood with no glass, just resin which was cracked like you show in photo 3. That picture must be of the edge of the deck?
To remove the glass/resin I used a diamond wheel for my 3in grinder. Used a shop vac to suck up the dust while I was cutting. My wood was still solid, just a bit damp. After it dried out, I chose woven mat in all areas because obviously the deck carrys the weight of persons onboard.
I had to grind some plywood down along the edges to allow space for the resin and glass. Whaler had ground out the glass and replaced it with just resin. Apparently they were having trouble getting the deck to lay flush once installed. That was there poor attempt at a solution. As you discoverd resin has ZERO strength on it's own. Without glass, it will crack.
I was having trouble wrapping the glass/resin around the edge of the plywood. The glass has a bit of a memory to it so it would not lay tight in the little corner. I ended up waiting until the resin had started to cure. It tends to hold it's shape as it stiffens up. I pushed the glass/resin into that tiny corner. I vented the air bubbles out and the resin stayed tight and cured perfectly.
While I had the deck out, I replaced the rubber fuel lines with copper, and did a thorough inspection and cleaning of everything the deck covers.
Good luck,
If you have any questions give me a shout
Norm
1999 280 Conquest w/twin 225 Mercs
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| HarleyFXDL |
Posted on 01/26/10 - 5:45 PM
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Thanks guys for the great advice. I will remove all the resin and fiberglass to gain a better perspective of what needs to be done. As far as I can gather at this time is the plywood looks solid, just damp. The deck never flexed or moved under weight. I plan on stripping all glass and resin and will put the deck in my basement not too far from the wood stove. I figure a good month in the heat down there should dry it out. I plan on laying down a coat of resin followed by glass, then another coat of resin. That should seal it up.
Kevin
1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp.
If you think education is expensive, try ignorance
"Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman." |
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| TommyWhaler |
Posted on 01/27/10 - 4:55 PM
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Has anyone ever cut out a square or rectangle of the deck repaired the wet/rotten wood and foam below, then glassed the original piece of decking back in place, so it looks almost like it did before cutting?
Run on sentence ?
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