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tackling the fuel system - '86 Revenge 25'
Scavenger	#1  Posted on 01/03/10 - 9:43 PM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/18/09	Hey all, Just looking for any words of wisdom or advice as I start a repair project. I think it's time to pull up the deck and replace all the fuel hoses on an '86 Revenge 25'. Was thinking it might not hurt to pull the tank and get it pressure tested while I'm at it. Anyone have any tips for the process of removing and reinstalling the tank?
tom blinstrub	#2  Posted on 01/04/10 - 11:16 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 369 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/14/09	from 1988 to 1990 i installed tanks for the 18 to 25 ft whalers.we installed them and they were pressure tested before we foamed them in place,and again after the boat was done in case a misguided screw from the tank cover or console,etc puntured the tank or hose.the tank is held in by brackets then foamed in.to get the tank out you have to cut the foam around it and hope you can break it free from the foam under it.if i remember right the 25 tank has more space between it and the sides to get tools to remove the foam,2-3 inches i think.some are a very tight fit making it hard to gouge the foam out.they are pressure tested with very little pressure 3-4 lbs.they let it sit for a while to see if the pressure goes down.please check with someone who knows about tanks to be sure about what i think i remember.it could be pressure tested in place but you could not examine the bottom for corrosion.check your ground wire and connections while you have the cover off.hope this helps,tom
sraab928	#3  Posted on 01/04/10 - 11:47 AM
Member Project Albums Posts: 1282 Comments: 13 Joined: 12/27/05	I pulled the tanks out of an 82 Outrage 25 CC - I assume its the same. Not a fun job. Go to these pics - On the second page you will see the floor up and tanks coming out etc... http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v47.../?start=40 Edited by sraab928 on 01/04/10 - 11:47 AM Scott 1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
tom blinstrub	#4  Posted on 01/04/10 - 11:56 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 369 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/14/09	just two more important things,always two clamps on all hoses and more important when you replace your vent hose reinstall the wire spring that the vent hose pases through near the vent under the gunnel.the hose barely fits through this spring.the spring prevents the hose from collapseing,very very important because the hose is looped around where it connects to the vent.make a drawing of how it is so you can reinstall it the same way.this goes for the 18,20 and 22 foot whalers.it should be easy to look at on the outrage by taking the side cover off.hope this helps,tom
clamaho	#5  Posted on 01/04/10 - 10:47 PM
Member Posts: 1 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/30/09	I just pulled the tanks from an 25' 1983 Outrage. What worked best for me was use a handsaw and make 2 parallel cuts about 3/4" apart in the foam then use a long prybar to remove the 3/4" strip of foam. This freed the tank enough to use several wood 1x4's to pry the tank up. Then alot of scraping got rid of the remaining foam. My foam was totally saturated and weighed about 150 lbs. The only corrosion was on the top of the tanks. Good luck.
Scavenger	#6  Posted on 01/06/10 - 10:03 PM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/18/09	Thanks for the great advice. I pulled the deck up today. Boy, it's a jungle in there! chamlo, I think it's interesting that you had saturated foam yet no tank corrosion other than the top. My foam is saturated, hope I'm as lucky. tom, I'm curious about the vent installation with the loop and the spring - do you have more insight why they are installed this way - I imagine to keep water out?
Binkie	#7  Posted on 01/07/10 - 5:10 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 2012 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/19/05	I pulled an 80 gallon aluminum tank out of my 24' Aquasport years ago becuase of a small leak. I cut the foam around the sides free with a handsaw, and then cut enough of the foam away to work a 2x4 about 6-8 ft. long under the tank to use as a lever. With some pressure on the free end of the 2x4 the tank popped free. Make sure it is nearly empty of gas, or you won`t lift it. I found one end of the tank corroded with a small pin hole, and the rest of the tank was perfect. I put the tank on a couple of saw horses, and drew a pencil line around the tank, and with my circular saw cut the end of the tank off. I then took it to an aluminum fabricator and had a new end welded on. I lost about 5 gallons, or so of space., and the tank was again like new. Before I cut the end off, I filled the tank with water, and then drilled a hole in the bad end with a battery powered drill, and a about 3/4" hole saw. You can cut aluminum with a circular saw easier than you can cut wood. Use an aluminum blade or a carbide wood blade as I did, one that has alot of small teeth, I don`t remember how many. Removing a tank just to check it out seems like alot of work for probably nothing, unless the foam is saturated, but that seems the norm on Whalers, My Aquasport had dry foam, except the the back end which was the corroded end. Rich
RevengeFamily	#8  Posted on 01/07/10 - 7:09 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 192 Comments: 2 Joined: 06/21/08	Scavenger, I removed my fuel tank from my 1990 22' Revenge W/T and posted about it. See if any info in the following link helps you. Good luck and keep us posted. Norm http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...ad_id=5428 Edited by Phil T on 01/07/10 - 7:54 AM 1999 280 Conquest w/twin 225 Mercs "When the people fear their government there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson
tom blinstrub	#9  Posted on 01/07/10 - 11:36 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 369 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/14/09	I think your right about the vent hose curled like it is. It would seem like it would prevent water from easily going down the hose. It has been a long time since I installed tanks but be sure to make a drawing or picture of it before taking it apart. Check the vent also. As I remember it has a small screen on the outside. With this new fuel it is a wise choice to change all your hoses once in a while. I have heard of trouble with fuel lines where the inner layer collapses and blocks or restricts flow and the outside of the hose looks normal. I had some on and off fuel problems this year and I think it could have been the trouble even though the fuel hose is only two years old. Good luck,Tom B.
Scavenger	#10  Posted on 01/08/10 - 5:28 PM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/18/09	After pulling off the hoses and the aluminum support bars that go across the top of the tank, there is a lot of pitting under the the aluminum bars. The pitting is 1/16" deep or so in a lot of places, with some pitting deeper than that. So, it does look like I'm going to have to pull out the fuel tank for repair or replacement. How thick is the aluminum in these tanks? When I reinstall, I plan to reinstall it the same way - foamed in place. Does anyone know what type of foam to use and how to apply it? Also, (and maybe I'll find out soon when I pull it out), how is the bottom of the tank supported? Thanks for the help.
sraab928	#11  Posted on 01/08/10 - 6:21 PM
Member Project Albums Posts: 1282 Comments: 13 Joined: 12/27/05	I updated my photobucket album to show the pics of the tank removal- it will also show you whats underneath - sorry I didnt realize they were not there in the first place. Edited by Joe Kriz on 01/08/10 - 11:39 PM Scott 1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
Scavenger	#12  Posted on 01/08/10 - 9:52 PM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/18/09	Interesting. So it looks like the tank just sits on the bottom of the cavity, padded by a sheet of some type of foam and a strip of something that looks similar to rubber? Do you know what these materials are? Also, I'm wondering what material to put under the support brackets on top of the tank when I reinstall.
sraab928	#13  Posted on 01/09/10 - 4:30 AM
Member Project Albums Posts: 1282 Comments: 13 Joined: 12/27/05	They were rubber strips and a foam mat - I think the extra foam was from when they foamed the tank in place -some must have bled down in there. It really held that tank in place - There was also a piece of foam between the tanks. My rear tank was leaking - Front tank was close to the same - I had a new set of tanks made locally. If you are going through this much trouble might as well make it good for the next 20 years. I would also put rubber between your support bracket and tank. Edited by sraab928 on 01/09/10 - 4:34 AM Scott 1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
Scavenger	#14  Posted on 01/27/10 - 10:10 PM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/18/09	We'll I'm glad I took on this project, the old tank was in pretty bad shape. I've got my new fuel tank and lines, and am getting ready to reinstall. Last couple of questions: Anyone know if anti-siphon valves are needed on the fuel pickup lines? Also, would neoprene mat be an appropriate substitution for the rubber strip and foam mat originally under the tank?
Scavenger	#15  Posted on 02/07/10 - 10:00 PM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/18/09	Anyone have a good source for the springs that go on vent lines? I was able to reuse the old ones from my belly tank vent line, but I've also got saddle tanks, and am replacing those vent lines as well, and would like to add the spring to the vent lines for those.
gtwillis	#16  Posted on 05/31/10 - 8:50 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 13 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/03/07	I need to replace 140 gallon fuel tank on 1987 Boston Whaler Revenge. Anyone have suggestions or experience? Any recommended repair shops in CT, NY, or MA? Thanks
Joe Kriz	#17  Posted on 05/31/10 - 10:23 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11434 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	gtwillis, It would be much better to start your own thread so we can answer you directly. Posting here is hijacking Scavenger question and would confuse everyone. Thank You.