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Norman Pin
modenacart
#1 Print Post
Posted on 12/07/09 - 1:45 PM
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In the OEM photo section, it shows a brass norman pin, I was under the impression it was chrome plated. If it was chrome plated, why is an unplated brass one shown.

http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...oto_id=335

Thanks,


Edited by Tom W Clark on 12/07/09 - 1:56 PM
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Tom W Clark
#2 Print Post
Posted on 12/07/09 - 1:57 PM
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Whaler did not start chroming the norman pins until some time in the late 1980s.

Before that, they were raw brass which took on a nice patina with age.

 
modenacart
#3 Print Post
Posted on 12/07/09 - 2:59 PM
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Great, I will just polish mine up then.


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modenacart
#4 Print Post
Posted on 12/07/09 - 5:05 PM
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Is it suppose to be slightly bent?


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modenacart
#5 Print Post
Posted on 12/09/09 - 1:29 PM
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I am going to assume its straight and try to straight it back out.


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frstevec
#6 Print Post
Posted on 12/09/09 - 1:41 PM
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I tried to straighten mine and it broke easily. I don't know if heat would let it straigthen. If it not too bent,
Id leave it - polished.

 
modenacart
#7 Print Post
Posted on 01/02/10 - 8:40 AM
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Bent the pin back to almost straight. It surprised how strong the threads were, almost no damage. Only problem was I scrapped off some of the patina. I am thinking trying this to get the patina back. http://www.oillampparts.com/patina.htmlatina.html


Edited by modenacart on 01/03/10 - 9:33 AM
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
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Bake
#8 Print Post
Posted on 01/02/10 - 9:08 AM
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Or.... polish them with Brass O so that the scratches do not stand out. then wait.

 
modenacart
#9 Print Post
Posted on 01/02/10 - 9:17 AM
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I have them in a hopper for cleaning brass shells to reload. If that doesn't do I what I want it to, then I will try the Brass O. The hopper has done wonders with the other hardware that still has the chrome plate on it.

I don't know how long it takes to patina if I just wait, I don't like the look of the polished brass.




They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
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Tom W Clark
#10 Print Post
Posted on 01/02/10 - 9:21 AM
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There are hundreds of different patina recipes for brass and bronze. I own a very expensive hard-bound book with nothing but different thermo-chemical recipes for the darkening of brass and bronze.

But what I use 99 times out of 100 is a product known as JAX Brown:

http://www.shorinternational.com/Oxid...lorant.htm

The last norman pin I cleaned up had marks left from a pair of vise grips. I chucked the two half pins in my drill press and used sandpaper to take out all the marks. I then dipped it in JAX BRown and in seconds, it looked like it had been on the water for years.

 
modenacart
#11 Print Post
Posted on 01/02/10 - 9:24 AM
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What grit sand paper did you use?



They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
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modenacart
#12 Print Post
Posted on 01/02/10 - 9:34 AM
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I also have both ends off the brass stud, can I buy another stud without having the buy the entire pin?


They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
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Tom W Clark
#13 Print Post
Posted on 01/02/10 - 10:02 AM
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Use whatever grit you need to remove the marks you have but move up through progressively finer grits. I end up with 1200, which is as fine I have laying around.

With the pins chucked in the drill press, it takes only seconds to get the surface as fine as that grit of paper or cloth will take it.

The "stud" is nothing but all-thread. The newer pins use stainless steel. Just buy what you need at the hardware store.

For chucking the pins in the drill press I used a machine screw of the correct thread size with cut the head off.

Thread the screw into the pin and chuck the shank of the bolt in your drill press or lathe and away you go. The rotation of a drill press or lathe will self-tighten the pin on the threads so you don't need to worry about that.

 
modenacart
#14 Print Post
Posted on 01/02/10 - 1:58 PM
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Great, thanks everyone for the advice.


They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin
 
modenacart
#15 Print Post
Posted on 01/02/10 - 3:21 PM
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Didn't have a drill press, so I just clamped my drill in a wood clamp and the results were great! I started with 80 grit, 100, 220, 320, 400, 600 then 800, only because that was what I had. It took a while to get the marks out with the 80 but it was worth it. My wife wasn't as excited about the results as I was.


They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin
 
modenacart
#16 Print Post
Posted on 01/02/10 - 3:25 PM
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Tom W Clark wrote:


The "stud" is nothing but all-thread. The newer pins use stainless steel. Just buy what you need at the hardware store.



Are there no concerns with dissimilar metal corrosion with stainless and brass?

I also noticed a lot of run-on torque in the end peices. Is this the way the are manufactured or did they use some sort of lock tight?


Edited by modenacart on 01/02/10 - 3:26 PM
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin
 
Tom W Clark
#17 Print Post
Posted on 01/02/10 - 4:58 PM
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I wouldn't worry about stainless in bronze, but use brass if it concerns you.

You must use a thread lock like Lok-Tite, as the factory did when the boat was new. Use the medium strength so it will be removable in the future.

 
modenacart
#18 Print Post
Posted on 01/02/10 - 5:48 PM
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Great, thanks.


They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin
 
H_E_Hottell
#19 Print Post
Posted on 04/22/10 - 9:40 AM
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So, are 1966 era Norman pins brass or bronze?

 
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