Battery and Gas Tank Tie Down
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RobG |
Posted on 09/13/09 - 2:47 PM
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Hi, Everyone
Is 3M 5200 strong enough to use for battery and gas tank tie down purposes? I am trying to avoid making any further holes in the floor of my 13 sport. Any other recommendations?
Thanks.
Rob
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modenacart |
Posted on 09/13/09 - 5:08 PM
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After 5200 properly cures, sometimes it will tear what its bonded to before it lets go.
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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ioptfm |
Posted on 09/13/09 - 5:36 PM
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I would not suggest using 5200 as an adhesive to secure items as heavy as a battery and a gas tank. In my opinion you both items need to be securely tied down to limit movement. Can you use any of the holes that are already in the floor to attach the brackets for tie-down straps?
Tom
1979 Sport 15' |
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MW |
Posted on 09/13/09 - 5:39 PM
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You could put small wood blocks down and 5200 them, then screw into them. Everyone with portable fuel tanks should have "tie downs", or at least a piece of line/rope tied to the portable tank handle off the rail or secure spot. If a wave washes into the boat, it's possible to wash the fuel tank overboard as the fuel line connection goes "snap" off, leaving you with no fuel tank (washed over board), a swamped boat, and now no "power".
Matt |
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RobG |
Posted on 09/13/09 - 7:05 PM
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Tom,
I filled in all of the holes when I did the restoring of the boat. I wasn't sure where I wanted to put the battery and tank(s). I guess I can screw into the floor and use marine caulking to prevent water from entering the hull.
Rob
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Finnegan |
Posted on 09/13/09 - 10:47 PM
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Screwing in footman's loops for the 1" tie down straps for the batteries and fuel tanks should only be done where BW has provided wood/whalerboard backing for the purpose under the glass skin of the boat. See the "wood locating diagram" for your particular hull. Putting them into the glass skin only will not hold. All Whalers have a specified location for batteries and that should usually be used.
5200 should never be used, since it WILL bond to the glass skin, but under a moderate load will also "pop" the glass skin away from the foam, sacrificing the intergrity of the hull.
Edited by Finnegan on 09/13/09 - 10:47 PM |
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jollyrog305 |
Posted on 09/14/09 - 8:16 AM
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Rob,
When we purchased a new tempo 18 gal tank for our Currituck, it fit beautifully under seat. Problem was that it would always slide backwards in chop. What I ended up doing was getting 4 adjustable straps (click buckle connects) and running them underneath the tank then through footman’s loops that I attached to the underside of the seat. Works great. When I need to fill the tank, all I have to do is undo the 4 buckles and slide the tank out a bit. Check out the third pic down on my personal page to see the setup. As far as the battery, I just cut and placed it on a sturdy thin rubber pad to keep from sliding around. The weight of the battery keeps it in place. I also cut the same rubber material and put it under each end of the tank – not to keep it from slipping, but rather protect the tank/deck.
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RyanF |
Posted on 09/14/09 - 10:50 AM
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There was no embedded wood in my hull ('69) for battery mounting. I knew screws would not work so I used the same pop rivets supplied with the rub rail kit to mount the battery box tie downs. I put some 5200 in and around the holes first and topped off the rivets with more 5200.
-Ryan |
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Finnegan |
Posted on 09/15/09 - 11:30 AM
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In a 16' hull, the Whaler designated battery location was in the Port stern corner. There was wood imbedded under the glass in that area for battery placement Footman's Loops. See the 16' hull wood diagram.
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MidcoastMike |
Posted on 09/15/09 - 2:27 PM
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The 13' wood locating diagrams don't appear to show any wood under the deck in the stern, but most batteries are located there. Mine is on the stern starboard side. Are the tiedown screws just going through the glass into the foam?
Mike
1998 Conquest 21 - 2005 Yamaha F225 |
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