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Currituck shallow splash well question.
len36709
#1 Print Post
Posted on 09/07/09 - 7:28 AM
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The splash well on this 1967 Currituck is a poor design. It is shallow, so you have to use lag bolts for the two lower engine mounts. Also the drain hole is right in the center of the well where it is blocked by the engine. I am contemplating cutting and reshaping to form a deeper well or removing entirely. Has anyone done this? Any thoughts? Would I be messing with structural integrity of the transom, ie will the engine weight or towing skiers over stress the transom if I cut out the splash well?


Len Johnson
 
whalerman
#2 Print Post
Posted on 09/07/09 - 7:46 AM
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Hi, I wouldn't remove entirely, reshape or make the splash well alittle deeper ok. Also you might think about puting drain tubes on either side of the eng. bracket, instead of cutting up the well area. Your whaler looks good!!, and I saw that smile in the first picture!! Welcome to WC.


THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
 
Tom W Clark
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Posted on 09/07/09 - 10:19 AM
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Whoa! Do NOT start cutting up your Whaler.

I think it is a bit unfair to criticize the designers of the splashwell. It was designed almost forty years ago when the outboards of the day fit just fine. How could they know how outboards would be built forty years later?

How to make the lower mounting bolts work on an old 16'-7" hull is an FAQ. See:

http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=82

The easiest thing to do is raise the motor on the transom so the lower mounting bolt clear the splash-well. This will put the motor 1-1/2" above the transom and improve the boats performance at the same time.

The drain tube may flow free with the motor mounted high.

What motor are you trying to put on your Currituck?


Edited by Tom W Clark on 09/07/09 - 11:30 AM
 
len36709
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Posted on 09/07/09 - 10:49 AM
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To: Tom Clark
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
I haven't made final decision yet. I want to read forum comments of other BW owners. After research I have done so far, I am leaning toward Honda 90hp. What do you suggest?
Thanks, Len


Len Johnson
 
Tom W Clark
#5 Print Post
Posted on 09/07/09 - 11:35 AM
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Len,

I suggest you watch the weight on your transom.

While you can mitigate the added weight of the largest four strokes by moving fuel tanks, battery(s) and such, it may be easier to just choose an outboard that does not weigh too much in the first place.

I think one of the highest considerations anybody needs to coponder is dealer support. What dealers are near you and are they any good? That may influence your choice of brand.

 
Phil T
#6 Print Post
Posted on 09/07/09 - 11:42 AM
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The new Honda 90 weighs 369 lbs, dry.

See Joe's article for comparable motors and weights.

Engine Choices for a 16/17' model

 
JohnnyCW
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Posted on 09/07/09 - 2:37 PM
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Great looking boat Len. The refurbish looks great!

 
Derwd24
#8 Print Post
Posted on 09/07/09 - 2:56 PM
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Second that, but there's just one thing missing... the Whaler decals on the sides!


Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
 
Joe Kriz
#9 Print Post
Posted on 09/07/09 - 3:23 PM
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The Lightest 90hp engine sold new today that is CARB3 rated is:

1. The Evinrude @ 320 pounds
2. The Suzuki @ 341 pounds


The weights go up from there.


Edited by Joe Kriz on 09/07/09 - 4:12 PM
 
nauset-heir
#10 Print Post
Posted on 09/07/09 - 4:43 PM
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I have just finished my restoration of a 68 Nauset and will be facing this problem in the spring. Isn't there a bracket that bolts on the old whalers correctly on the transom side with bolt holes that match up to the new engines?

 
Tom W Clark
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Posted on 09/07/09 - 5:30 PM
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No, there isn't.

You *can* buy a jack plate that you can then drill holes in, to match the existing lower holes in the Whaler, but I think it is easier and less expensive to simply fill the existing lower holes in the transom and then drill new holes that match modern industry standard bolt hole layout.

Once you above corrected the bolt hole pattern to the BIA standard, any new motor in the future will bolt right on without any fooling around.

 
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