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Not Quite as Bad as I Thought
kamie
#1 Print Post
Posted on 09/01/09 - 6:31 PM
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Well, since there was a SCA today I had to find something to do with my day other than fish. It seemed like the perfect time to weigh the 13. Total weight on the hull is 400 pounds. I was hoping for less, but figured it would be more. Since a bare hull should be in the 250-275 range, I am looking at 17+ gallons of water. My plan is to flip the hull and work on the bottom but before I did that I was thinking I should do one of two things.

1. Should I just go ahead cut the deck and dig out all the wet foam in the floor then flip the hull?
2. Cut and remove the deck but leave the foam exposed to the air.

Any other suggestions?


Edited by Tom W Clark on 11/20/09 - 10:49 AM
 
Bo Neato
#2 Print Post
Posted on 09/01/09 - 7:32 PM
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My guess is to leave the foam if it doesn't look real bad. You may never get it completely dry, but if you refoam you'll have trouble getting the density of factory foam.



 
whalerman
#3 Print Post
Posted on 09/01/09 - 8:53 PM
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Hi, cut the deck out leave the foam, maybe put some small holes in it and put rolled up paper in the holes to wick out the water. Flip the hull do the work on the bottom as the water drips out,wicks out. Takeing out the foam my warp the hull as it's upside down. And as said before probbly you won't get the density back to what it was. Anyway good luck with the project. BTW I grew up not far from Smith Marine in Severna Park, small world.... and getting smaller


THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
 
kamie
#4 Print Post
Posted on 09/02/09 - 6:58 AM
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I was thinking about flipping the hull without the foam and basically came to the same conclusion, cut away the deck but leave the foam. If the foam is still wet when I finish the bottom, I can always dig it out then.
now to flip a 400# boat.


 
themclos
#5 Print Post
Posted on 09/02/09 - 7:33 AM
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I don't know if I would waste waste my time cutting out the deck. If the deck is solid, why mess with the structural integrity of the boat?

Why not try drilling some holes along the keel, every 6 inches or so, and see how much water comes from the lower sections of the hull.

If the deck and hull are solid, with no soft spots, I would not be inclined to rip out the deck. I don't think the hull weighs too much to impact performance or the amount of freeboard you have.

A 40 year old boat is going to have water in it.

Congratulations.


Dan
1986 22 Outrage Cuddy, 2002 225HP Optimax
 
whalerman
#6 Print Post
Posted on 09/02/09 - 7:37 AM
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Thats the million dollar question,if you don't have lifting capabilities in the overhead in the shop or an A-Frame at both ends and good chianfalls. Next would be launch in the yard and have a few friends come over and "flip it" carefully and put the boat back on the trailer, just enough to get it in the shop, and carry onward from there. Thinking twice saves fingers, toes and backs.


THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
 
moose
#7 Print Post
Posted on 09/02/09 - 7:46 AM
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Kamie,
I would not want to cut out the floor either. To me that is a major part of the hull strength. If you can lean it up against a wall or a tree bow up and let the water settle for a while and then drill a few holes in the bottom near the transom I think you should be able to get a lot of the water out. Once you get it down to around 300 lbs. it is not hard to flip. I did mine alone and I'm not a big guy. I'm not a young guy either. With one or two helpers I don't think you will have any trouble at all flipping it. Leaning it against something bow up is another story. That will surely take at least three people. If you put the transom against whatever you will lean it against with the boat upside down and then begin lifting the bow and walking it up like an extension ladder three people should be able to do it. Maybe get it up a bit and brace it and then go again in increments. Piece of cake. Just be careful.
Mike

 
kamie
#8 Print Post
Posted on 09/02/09 - 9:17 AM
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I have cut out the bad sections and I am going to try to flip it. I have an extra pair of hands coming over to see what we can do. I can't get it to the tipping point alone, without feeling like it will just crash.

Dan,
drilling holes in the keel won't help if it is upside down on the trailer.


 
Derwd24
#9 Print Post
Posted on 09/02/09 - 10:39 AM
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Even if it's right side up, the holes along the keel method isn't very effective unfortunately.

I think if you're going to remove the deck, might as well tear out and refoam, then you'll know for sure it's done right and will float nice and high. Any future water ingress will be met with more resistant new foam vs old foam that's had cells damaged and has just been dried out somewhat.


Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
 
kamie
#10 Print Post
Posted on 09/02/09 - 3:10 PM
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Dave,

I will probably end up removing the floor and the foam and redoing it. I will finish the bottom first and then decide how much deck to pull up. So far, it's pretty wet all the way from the stern to the seats. The good news is, I only found a couple spots on the bottom, at least that's before I get the paint off.


 
ioptfm
#11 Print Post
Posted on 09/02/09 - 4:03 PM
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Kamie
If you have an extra hand available, can you take some photos of the process of the flipping and leaning and draining and post in a project page? I think that might help a lot of us in the future as we bring these old girls back to life


Tom
1979 Sport 15'
 
kamie
#12 Print Post
Posted on 09/02/09 - 5:03 PM
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Tom,
I only had one extra pair of hands and we need all to do the flipping. What we did was take the boat from the ground and flipped it onto the trailer. I put 4x4's across the trailer so the boat would sit on that. We rolled it onto the trailer baically. It sounds a lot easier than it was, the stern of this boat is pretty heavy and it took two of us to lift it.

Tomorrow is still a SCA, so I will attempt to remove the bottom paint and get some better photo's of how the boat is resting on the trailer.

 
Derwd24
#13 Print Post
Posted on 09/02/09 - 5:10 PM
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A couple of the guys who have done it used the 2 lb foam. Take a look at this site, some interesting info:

http://www.jgreer.com/Foam%20Page.htm20Page.htm

I've also heard that Eastern Burlap down in VA near Kamie has decent prices:

http://www.easternburlap.com/


Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
 
ioptfm
#14 Print Post
Posted on 09/02/09 - 5:42 PM
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Help a dumb old SC Boy............What is SCA?


Tom
1979 Sport 15'
 
kamie
#15 Print Post
Posted on 09/02/09 - 5:53 PM
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Small Craft Advisory and yes I consider 18 foot whaler a small craft. 10-15kt winds with 20kt gusts.


 
ioptfm
#16 Print Post
Posted on 09/02/09 - 6:13 PM
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Duh! I with you....I consider anything under 40' small craft..........


Tom
1979 Sport 15'
 
kamie
#17 Print Post
Posted on 09/02/09 - 7:15 PM
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I am putting together a project album. Tomorrow I will take some more photo's of how the hull is sitting on the trailer.
We took the hull from sitting on tires on the ground, basically rolled it up onto it's side. Then scooted it as close to the trailer as we could get it, before letting it down gently onto the 4x4. Once up there we used another 4x4 to push it over so the gunnal wasn't resting on the fender and then winched it up toward the front. that way most of the hull is over the trailer frame. I do plan to move it around the yard, i will just strap the hull down to the frame and hope it stays put.
Once you see the pictures, it will all be clear.

 
Bo Neato
#18 Print Post
Posted on 09/03/09 - 8:24 AM
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kamie wrote:
Dave,

I will probably end up removing the floor and the foam and redoing it. I will finish the bottom first and then decide how much deck to pull up. So far, it's pretty wet all the way from the stern to the seats. The good news is, I only found a couple spots on the bottom, at least that's before I get the paint off.


Kamie,

Do you know if anyone has ever considered using a dessicant like silica gel to remove moisture in the foam? Obviously the foam will still be somewhat wet after it's done dripping out. But you're draining through the deck, so potentially you could flip the hull back over, lay silica gel on the deck. then cover the hull with a shrink or pallet-type wrap

Silica gel doesn't change form as it absorbs moisture, and is supposed to hold over 40% of it's weight in moisture when saturated (and still feel dry to the touch). At $1.50/lb in bulk, a 50lb bag or drum could potentially remove almost three gallons of moisture. It seems expensive, but considering both the cost of restoration and the alternative methods maybe it might be worth a shot.

It just might be crazy enough to work. If not, it would probably play out like an episode of Seinfeld.
Hmmm, now that I think of it, Kramie does have a certain ring to it.

 
Eri
#19 Print Post
Posted on 09/03/09 - 9:24 AM
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Before you start cutting it up wrap it up with some plastic and tape and use a dehumidifier on it. Pull all the drain tubes out. Maybe drill a few small in the keel. Remove all screws and hardware. Take off the rub rail. Mine pulled water for about three days. It will never look original if you chop it up. Depends how picky you are.

 
kamie
#20 Print Post
Posted on 09/03/09 - 10:18 AM
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Bo,
Not sure how much water it would pull or how long it would take. While the water migrates thru the foam, it does so really slowly. Not sure I have years to wait.

Eri, Same with the dehumidifier, surface water get sucked up and the foam surface will dry, doubt you will pull all the water from deep in the foam. This boat will never be original, at this point, not sure it will even look good, but we will see when i'm done. now off to scrape paint.

 
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