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Removing old steering cable from motor
tinboatwhaler	#1  Posted on 08/21/09 - 6:41 PM
Member Posts: 5 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/13/09	Help! trying to remove the (teleflex?) steering cable from the tilt tube, but cannot get the left side, which connects to the steering link/motor, to budge. It's frozen solid. I was able to remove the steering cable from the wheel, and also back off the nut on the right side of the engine; on that side I can move the solid bar in/out of the tilt tube, but the left side is still frozen solid; have been generously applying PB Buster inside the tube from the right hand side, and using a rubber mallet and block of wood on the frozen side; I even have run the right trailer wheel up on 1 car ramp, to use gravity to get the lube into the problem area. I did take a couple of good whacks with a 5 lb hand sledge and a block of wood, but nothing is moving. Any suggestions?? Thanks.
Phil T	#2  Posted on 08/21/09 - 7:15 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6991 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Have you read this FAQ I wrote? You need to spray both ends of the tube and let is sit, spray again the next day. Repeat for a few days. If it is "really" frozen, you will have to really wack it with the sledge. Heat is the next course.
Joe Kriz	#3  Posted on 08/21/09 - 7:15 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11434 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Sounds like you have major tilt tube problems. I personally would hoist the engine slightly and remove the tilt tube and throw it away. Buy a new Stainless Steel tilt tube and you should be good to go for many years.
tinboatwhaler	#4  Posted on 08/21/09 - 7:31 PM
Member Posts: 5 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/13/09	Phil and Joe, Thanks for the replies. It is a major problem, and didn't want to 'escalate' to the sledge too quickly. Didn't think to look in the FAQ's, was a good article. From the reading / research I've done, removing the tilt tube separates the motor from the boat, correct? And I'll say, applying heat to the tube has me concerned, not much clearance between the hull and the motor. The boat is a 1987 13' SuperSport; owing to the amount of time I have been spending with the boat, there is not enough room on the stern to name it Mistress, but FWB will fit. Thanks again for the replies!
Phil T	#5  Posted on 08/21/09 - 8:46 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6991 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	When the steering froze on my Montauk I was hesitant to apply heat as well. My mechanical savy (can do a complete engine rebuild) nephew showed me. He ran the torch over the forward face of the tube so it all got warmed up and got HOT. After 15 minutes of heating I took a really forceful smack with a 5 lb sledge and got just the slightest movement. I re-soaked the tube with PB Blaster and he re-heated the tube. Another major whack. More budging. Kept whacking and heating and she came unstuck. When the end was in the tube, I used a metal rod 3/4 of an inch in diameter x 6 " (from a hardware store) to reach the cable. After cleaning the cable and the tube, reinstalled with new grease and a steersman nut. Never had another problem and the steering was smooth on the first turn each spring.
Derwd24	#6  Posted on 08/21/09 - 9:12 PM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	You can also use a "heat shield" for the torch method, made of copper or aluminum flashing or the like, to protect the hull from the heat of the torch. Easily bendable to fit under and behind the steering tube.... Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
MW	#7  Posted on 08/22/09 - 3:35 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1827 Comments: 10 Joined: 01/08/06	Oh man, "I know this drill" all too well, Apply penetrating oil for a few days, then you can try "heat" (steering rod only), whack the rod with a sledge (it's toast anyway). If "no-go" You might have to brace the motor in the full tilt up position (Lash the motor to the boat so it can't fall off on you if NOT power T/T equipted), cut the cable on the starboard side and remove the tilt tube and cable as one piece. Replace w /a new "well greased" tilt tube and re-assemble. Put a "Steersman" nut (grease fitting) on the end of the steering shaft as "Phil" suggested to avoid or "Prolong" having to do this again, I "NOW" grease everything on my motor once a week, when stored for winter, just move the steering wheel a turn or two, once a week. I now use the Green Grease "Marine Rated" (auto store), it's "stickier" than other "Marine Rated" grease. Matt
JohnnyCW	#8  Posted on 08/22/09 - 8:14 AM
Member Posts: 684 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/16/09	Been there, done that. Several years ago my work schedule got busy enough, I allowed my boat to sit for a few months through the winter. When I had time to get her back in the water, the steering was frozen solid. Took a good week of using many of the techniques described in this thread to eventually get the rod free. My 1990 Outrage 17 has the rear deck/storage and I had very limited room to swing a hammer or sledge. Lots of curse words uttered that week! Corrosion wasn't the problem for mine. Seems saltwater intrusion left behind large amounts of salt and mixed with old grease forming a sort of cement. I cleaned everything spotless before reassembly, then installed a product by Davis called the Cable Buddy. I had the older system with the zerk fitting and greased it regularly. Unfortunately it seems the new grease never really penetrated far down the tube. The Cable Buddy system doesn't use grease but rather a liquid lubricant. Basically a synthetic gear oil. The cable steer has been smooth and trouble free ever since and I cant recommend the Cable Buddy system highly enough. My boat is currently in the shop for a re-power. While there, I'm finally upgrading to hydraulic steering because I've been disappointed with the excess slop of the cable steering since I purchased my boat almost 18 years ago.
Raaaaay	#9  Posted on 08/22/09 - 10:28 PM
Member Posts: 4 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/02/07	I too have a stuck cable on my Outrage. I have spent hours trying to get it free. I finally got it to move a few inches but then didnt have the right tool to drive the cable through the tilt-tube. Tommorow I hope to try to finish the job. I havnt tried a torch to heat the tube, just a heatgun. Will a torch help a lot more than a heat gun???
MW	#10  Posted on 08/23/09 - 1:29 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1827 Comments: 10 Joined: 01/08/06	Mine was "REALLY" stuck, I removed the whole tilt tube brought it to work where the mechanic's forced it out with a hydraulic ram/press. You shoulda heard the "Groan's" from the hydraulic press (and me). The guy's at work cleaned the tube out with a corse furnace brush they welded to an extention (long bolt) on a drill, and greased it w/ marine grease. They gave me the tool they made (to use in the future), I thought the tilt tube was going to bend on the press it took so much force, they just kinda "Laughed" at me and said "And you were gonna get this out w/heat, penetrating oil, and a sledge" ? Edited by MW on 08/23/09 - 1:30 AM Matt
tinboatwhaler	#11  Posted on 08/23/09 - 6:47 PM
Member Posts: 5 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/13/09	Well after a week of soaking and whacking, I believe this qualifies as "really stuck". I appreciate all the feedback, especially about creating a heatshield, that seems to be the next step, short of taking it to a dealer. If I can ask another question - there is a 1.25" nut on each end of what I would assume is the tilt tube the nuts are flush up against the motor mounts - I know the motor has to be supported - if I remove the nuts, should the tilt tube then be able to be removed, probably with more banging? the thread looks to continue right into the engine mounts....from the amount of sand and salt crystals I found in the impeller and thermostat housing, this boat was put away salt water wet 3 years ago.....Thanks again for the support /suggestions
Joe Kriz	#12  Posted on 08/23/09 - 7:11 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11434 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Yes, as long as you support the engine, you can remove those nuts and slide the tilt tube out. I still would suggest a new Stainless Steel tilt tube. Why go through all this trouble again sometime down the road?
Derwd24	#13  Posted on 08/23/09 - 9:22 PM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	Second what Joe says about the stainless tilt tube, well worth the investment. That way you can then cut the old tube length wise and easily remove it from the steering rod by prying it open (unless you plan to replace that too, then just toss it all). Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
MW	#14  Posted on 08/24/09 - 12:30 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1827 Comments: 10 Joined: 01/08/06	If I could have found a S/S tilt tube I would have put one in, not sure why they didn't make them all out of S/S, makes more sense. When you slide the tilt tube out, the engine might drop a bit, you might have to use a large screw driver to wiggle the motor so the tube slides back in, be careful as when "I" tapped it in with a hammer a plastic bushing broke, so I replaced both. I hope I never have to do THIS again. Matt
tinboatwhaler	#15  Posted on 08/30/09 - 6:20 PM
Member Posts: 5 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/13/09	Well after working with the suggestions made here - I finally said enough was enough - I was planning to replace the cable anyway, so I used a big pipe wrench, and with LOTS of muscle - was able to twist the steering shaft and get it to move - then using a 3 foot piece of Grade 5 bar-stock and a 5 lb hand sledge, proceeded to beat the shaft out of the tilt tube.....so it's all apart ann now working on the tilt tube - appreciate all of the help supplied here - thanks
MW	#16  Posted on 08/31/09 - 3:43 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1827 Comments: 10 Joined: 01/08/06	"Lousy Job" to work on, very frustrating, I'll bet you only do this "ONCE", get the "Steersman nut", keep it oiled or greased for "Trouble free" operation. Glad you got it out, clean out the tilt tube well, or just replace it. I grease and oil my engine's zirk fittings almost every time I go out, takes just a minute, I keep the grease gun in the car. I use 90 w synthetic oil (lower unit oil) to lube the "Steersman nut". Matt
tinboatwhaler	#17  Posted on 08/31/09 - 5:50 AM
Member Posts: 5 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/13/09	Just bought this boat - and knew it needed a fair amount of work. Once I get it all up and running I'll be all set - never had these problems with any of my previous boats - always did the maintenance, which typically reduces the amout of 'repairs' that need to be done - so more time on the water having fun. I pull the steering arm out as part of winterizing - clean and lube it - so it doesn't get the chance to seize...