1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

Solid Foam Vs Pour Foam for Hull Repair
JMcCorison	#1  Posted on 07/23/09 - 9:14 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 13 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/08/08	I am finally trying to get started on the hull repair of my 17' Montauk. There is considerable damage to the port chine. The official whaler repair procedure calls for replacing large quantities of damaged foam with solid foam before glassing. I probably will need to replace less than a cubic foot of foam. Given that I can only order foam in 4'x8' sheets, and shipping will be required, (translate into really expensive total cost for the small amount needed) I wondering about using polyurethane pour foam instead. I'm not talking about floatation foam, or cheap insulting foam. In theory the pour foam is the same as the solid polyurethane foam blocks. Does anybody have any experience, good or bad, in this regard? Thanks, Jim McCorison
Turpin	#2  Posted on 07/23/09 - 6:14 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 434 Comments: 20 Joined: 07/04/08	I, myself would prefer the pour foam. Either will obviously do the job so if it is a concern of cost and/or shipping I would go with the liquid, just remember a little will go a very long ways. It may be a challenge to pour and keep in the spot you are trying to repair but a little improvising with cardboard and tape should remedy those issues. The nice thing about the pour is that in theory it will bond to the existing fiberglass and foam also filling every all the little voids. As far as the 4'x8' sheets I'm not sure where you have check but it can be ordered in various size blocks. 1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude Maintaining a level of sanity that is socially acceptable
Jim R	#3  Posted on 07/23/09 - 7:33 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 57 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/13/09	Not sure of the exact area you are repairing, but I would keep in mind that a solid foam composite - such as corecell or divynicell - will offer more structural integrity when properly glassed. If your area calls for extra strength, the pour foam may offer you less in that department. If you do go with a two part polyurethane based pour foam, make sure you go for a strong glass like 1708 biaxial before laying finish cloth. I'll bet if you call around for the solid foam someone will cut the size you need. Maybe try Jamestown Distributors?
JMcCorison	#4  Posted on 07/23/09 - 9:04 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 13 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/08/08	Turpin & Jim, Thanks for the thoughts. I was planning to order from Fiberlay as I've done business with them before and found them good to deal with. I'll ask them to see if they can ship partial sheets, but I suspect not. I know pour foam goes a long way. I like the idea of it filling in uneven areas and small voids. I'll check out Jamestown as well. I hadn't thought of them as I usually put them in the wood boat side of things. The area to be repaired is almost 3' of the bottom of the chine, and probably part of the sponson as well. This is an area with a lot of stress, but everything I've read says to use foam if needed, fill in with shredded mat (kitty hair) then mat to finish. The original hull is built with a layer of mat over foam, so using this same method for repair is most likely the best way to go. While a nice solid laminate of biaxial would be really strong, it would be stronger than the surrounding area and would most likely cause stress points which would cause problems. Jim McCorison
Tom W Clark	#5  Posted on 07/23/09 - 9:24 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	Jim, It's too bad you did not make your needs known sooner. I just gave away the remainder of a 4x8 sheet I bought from Fiberlay years ago and slowly made use of. It was expensive but I was tired of having it take up space in my shop. I had about a quarter sheet left. I sent it to a gentleman in Florida who needed some for a repair. He may have some extra. How much do you need?
JMcCorison	#6  Posted on 07/23/09 - 9:52 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 13 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/08/08	Tom, I'll know better once I finish the surgery, but I'm guessing about a cubic foot. The boat got pretty beat up when it got caught between a dock which broke away during a storm and the rocks on shore. Most of the damaged areas will need just mat, but the port sponson is pretty creamed for a length of about 3'. I figure to cut away back to solid foam and build it back up before glassing over. Jim McCorison
Derwd24	#7  Posted on 07/23/09 - 11:36 PM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	Jim, If you can, take pictures during the repair process and put together a project album. It would be really great to see how that kind of repair is done. Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
flwhaler	#8  Posted on 08/11/09 - 9:52 AM
Member Posts: 9 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/13/07	I am the gentleman Tom referred to with the sheet foam. Please email me if needed. I used two part foam on the deck side of my Eastport. Depending on the severity of the bottom at the port chine, I will most likely use more two part. I have found alot of "shipped and held" water due to the force of the water entering the hull at point of damage. I have scrapped,ground,chiseled most of the wet foam out and am now laying a new deck topside. I will be posting some pics soon.
Binkie	#9  Posted on 08/11/09 - 10:23 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 2012 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/19/05	Its impossible to use solid foam for what you want to do, as it won`t adhere to the inside surface. Use two part liquid foam. Rich