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Refinishing 13' Sport with extreme crazing
orbitranch	#1  Posted on 07/07/09 - 10:43 AM
Member Posts: 11 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/07/09	I'm new to this, Whaler and Boats alike. I recently acquired a 13' Sport which I am unsure of the year. I have many questions which I would appreciate any guidance: - What year is hull# 13614? - It has what I believe you call "crazing" over the entire hull and interior. No damage to the foam, but I can sse the fibers through some of the cracks. What is the best way to stabilize any further damage? Not necessarily a full refinish, but something fairly inexpensive where I can enjoy this boat on the water without fear that it will allow water intrusion into the foam? - I want to refinish it at some point. I'm unsure whether to take it back original or if it would completely kill the value if I took it to another color. My Wife want's it Seafoam Green. What do you guys think? Again any help is greatly appreciated!
ioptfm	#2  Posted on 07/07/09 - 12:09 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1533 Comments: 3 Joined: 10/28/06	welcome aboard! Don't hesitate to ask questions as there is a wealth of knowledge on this site and many more than willing to help This should help you with the hull# id http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=61 Tom 1979 Sport 15'
Bake	#3  Posted on 07/07/09 - 4:03 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 902 Comments: 8 Joined: 01/30/06	old boats are like old cars. The closer to factory finish it is the more it will be worth. I feel like there is a break point at which it cost more to get back to factory new condition than what the boat will ever be worth. AT that point it is a canvas to which you can make your own. I painted my project 15 fighting lady yellow and never left home that folks did not complement the boat. My current project will also be far from factory, but it will be unmistakably Whaler. Have fun with it.
Eri	#4  Posted on 07/07/09 - 4:45 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 157 Comments: 4 Joined: 10/09/08	The only real way is to grind the cracks down to glass. Sometimes the crack goes into the glass and you will need to grind down past the crack in the glass. Anything else will only crack again shortly.
Turpin	#5  Posted on 07/07/09 - 4:50 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 434 Comments: 20 Joined: 07/04/08	There is only one known way to rid the crazing or spider cracks that I have heard of and that is to completely remove them. Some cracks can be removed a dremel tool and sand through the gel as spiders do not go past that point unless they are stress cracks. I too had an extreme amount of spider cracks inside and out. I used an angle grinder and 80 grit to the inside along with an orbital sander and finally the hard to get cracks with the dremel. On the bottom I didn't worry so much I just removed the cracks on the sides. I did a limited restoration 15 years ago and tried 2 different professional grade products on the spiders cracks which did not work. If you plan to use the boat this season use it and mean while get a plain and do a lot of reading and research then you'll a more confident approach to the project and also some decision will become a lot easier. Whatever you choose to do in the rehab of the boat, make it fun and the boat a boat that will be functional for your use despite what you may hear from purist. As far as water intrusion double check all drain tubes especially bow locker. I found that I didn't have any in the bow locker and the stern were rotted, those two areas were my number one source of water intrusion. Other than that check all cracked up areas to make sure they are not impact damage and in need of moderate repair. Oh' by the way Welcome aboard and it appears that your hull ,from the above posted link, is a 1964. 1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude Maintaining a level of sanity that is socially acceptable
orbitranch	#6  Posted on 07/07/09 - 6:59 PM
Member Posts: 11 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/07/09	Thanks all! I was afraid the only way to truly remedy the cracks was to remove them completely. This may be way out of my league as I've never done any fiberglass work. The hull is not as severe and I think it can easily be sanded out and resurfaced as I'm sure it was not as exposed to the sun. I believe I will go ahead and use it the rest of the summer as is, and resurface the hull this winter. Can this be simply painted with a coat of gelcoat once sanded? The motor is super cool. 1960 Merc 400E. I need to get the electric starter for it as it has been stripped out. But it runs nice and starts easily with the manual pull. It also appears the drain holes at the rear have been replaced. I have "knocked" around all over the boat and it sounds consistent so I don't think the foam is separating anywhere. I am a little disappointed about the year. It was sold to me as a '59. I had never really heard of Boston Whaler but once I started looking into it I was really excited to see that I had a special boat.
Turpin	#7  Posted on 07/07/09 - 7:22 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 434 Comments: 20 Joined: 07/04/08	Don't feel to overwhelmed, it really isn't as hard as it sounds or as you may think just very time consuming. I knew a lot about reworking different body surfaces but the amount of work restoring mine was a learning curve. The main thing is pick a starting point and go from there and also choose a stopping point because regardless of how much you choose to do, there always be something else to do, forgot to do or wished you had done. You will find that by the time you finish, you will have taught yourself a lot. Working on fiberglass is easier than imagined. If you stay somewhere within the prescribed directions of whatever resin you choose and clean the surface fairly well but unless you have badly damaged areas, fiberglass won't be a factor. If you plan to re-gel, and some here swear by that finish, yes you can finish with gel over the old gel. I'm not that familiar with working gel as I have always painted but from the gel-coater's here it appears to not be that much difference. Painting 90% of the work is in the prep where as it seems to me that with gel coating 90% of the work is in sanding the gel and polishing again I'm not familiar with with gel coats other than polishing. 1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude Maintaining a level of sanity that is socially acceptable