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Filling a 1000 holes
kamie
#1 Print Post
Posted on 07/02/09 - 2:11 PM
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I am getting ready to start filling all the screw holes in the 13, of which I am convinced there are thousands. My plan is to use Evercoat with blue gelcoat from Spectrum. Any words of advice before I jump into this.


Edited by kamie on 07/02/09 - 7:28 PM
 
Turpin
#2 Print Post
Posted on 07/02/09 - 6:42 PM
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I wish I had advice of some use; all I can offer is sympathy. Just remember that your filling with gel coat, so, leave room for build up of gel coat so it can be sanded and buffed.


1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude
Maintaining a level of sanity that is socially acceptable
 
PK
#3 Print Post
Posted on 07/02/09 - 8:04 PM
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Here are a couple of links with some great repair info from continuouswave.com. I'm in the final stages of doing a "frame off" redo of an '86 supersport that spent many years bouncing off the rocks at low tide behind my house. most of the holes and cracks I drilled or ground out and filled with west sytem and either low or high density filler, matt and resin.

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/repairInstructions.html

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/whalerRepair.html

 
Binkie
#4 Print Post
Posted on 07/02/09 - 8:32 PM
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Are you gel coating the whole interior or entire boat or just covering the filled holes. Probably stupid question. How could you cover and re gel a thousand holes. sorry.


Rich
 
kamie
#5 Print Post
Posted on 07/03/09 - 5:51 AM
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at this point i will just be filling the holes. I haven't decided if I will re-gelcoat the interior or not.

 
Blackduck
#6 Print Post
Posted on 07/03/09 - 7:38 AM
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I would fill a few holes in a few different spots, taking them to a completed stage. See how they look, and how long it took to do them. If you have even, say 250 holes, I think it will make more sense to fill the holes flush, and re- gelcoat the entire area. Matching the color on each of the holes is next to impossible, as you will find it changes from section to section. As far as a filler goes, I use System Three SB -112 Epoxy. It is the only epoxy that gelcoat will always cure to. It will not crack, and has the flexibility to expand and contract. You may, however, over time, see "ghosts" of your fillings. Good luck, better you than me, I have my hands full with 20 holes!


Walter Reynolds
1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
 
Binkie
#7 Print Post
Posted on 07/03/09 - 5:30 PM
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Are these thousand holes in the non skid area?


Rich
 
kamie
#8 Print Post
Posted on 07/03/09 - 6:23 PM
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the holes are along the edge between the non-skid and the sides and all along the sides. Carpet glue to hold down the carpet was just not enough. Looks like I will need to wet sand the sides to remove the glue splatters so I will fill the holes and then wet sand. that means, I need to flip the boat and see what challenges await on the bottom before finishing the inside.


 
Binkie
#9 Print Post
Posted on 07/03/09 - 8:39 PM
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I think I get the picture. I would just take an angle grinder and grind down that whole strip where the holes are, plug them with some MarineTex or the like and glass a trip of mat over the whole area. grind it again and then finish with marine bondo. Your gonna have to bite the bullet and refinish the boat anyway, with gel or paint.


Rich
 
arthureld
#10 Print Post
Posted on 07/04/09 - 2:54 AM
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Sounds like Binkie has done this kind of thing before. I think a professional would do something along those lines.

 
kamie
#11 Print Post
Posted on 07/04/09 - 8:10 AM
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Rich,
Not sure I really need to go that far. I will post some photo's when I get home on sunday. I am thinking if i make up a gelcoat patch and fill the holes I should be good. The screws are tiny, #6 3/4 inch at best. There is just lots of them. Since I need to wet sand anyway, i don't have to be that neat.
As for gelcoating, It would probably be easier to sand off the non-skid and the glue and just regelcoat. I am considering that option, depending on how far I get with glue removal. There are really 4 spots on the floor that need fiberglass work since they are open holes or cracks thru to the foam. I will make a couple more, when I drill holes in some areas I know are wet, before I flip it.
I will take and post some progress photo's after the holiday

 
MCathcart
#12 Print Post
Posted on 07/04/09 - 1:28 PM
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Kamie I'm also studding the same thing trying to make a decision to start now or wait until this winter. I bought a 1987 13' also that has numerous extra holes in. The guy that had the bote plugged'em all with silicone. So I get to dig the silicone out and the fix the holes. I've repaired gel-coat in the past but not this many small holes! I hate to tell you this but they need to be ground back (uh... deeper and bigger) to make sure the repair sticks. If you just try filling the hole as it is, in many cases the repair will crack around the original hole and sometimes fall into the boat. I've used Marine Tex before but I can't say its the best. I like the EverCoat products much better the problem is most all EverCoat products (polyester putty) is Not White. You can get a white activator for the Evercoat but it's still not going to be white. Kinda gets between a rock and hard place huh? I can't believe some people who drill holes all over a bote. I might end up using Marine Tex as bad as I hate too just because of it's color. As some people have said, it's not going to match but it will be close. Keep us posted.

 
kamie
#13 Print Post
Posted on 07/04/09 - 3:18 PM
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I don't mind making them bigger and will probably hit all with a countersink bit. the interior is blue, not white. If it was white it would blend better.

as for sanding the non-skid, unless I did it completely I would have to match the pattern. I plan to test mold making before I make the final decision on the interior. The other option is removing as much glue as possible, repairing the tears and holes and punting on whatever is left.


 
kamie
#14 Print Post
Posted on 07/05/09 - 2:01 PM
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I posted a couple photo's of the holes and the progress on the glue on my personal page

 
arthureld
#15 Print Post
Posted on 07/05/09 - 2:48 PM
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Your countersink idea will probably work for those. That looks like less than 100 holes.

 
kamie
#16 Print Post
Posted on 07/05/09 - 3:30 PM
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it may look like 100 in the photo's but after you have been going at the non-skid with a wire brush in the hot sun, trust me they multiply


 
arthureld
#17 Print Post
Posted on 07/05/09 - 3:54 PM
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I'd probably grind thise holes that are close together lightly and fill one low spot. At least the ones that are out of the non skid.

 
Binkie
#18 Print Post
Posted on 07/05/09 - 4:15 PM
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After looking at your pictures of the floor of your 13 footer it was worse than mine. I glassed a layer of 3/4oz mat over the entire bottom, and alleviated all the problems. I sprinkled non skid on top of the paint, then one more coat of paint. Looks better and works better than the original diamond pattern. Jeff has some good pics of someone that did similar to mine. and it looks great. Just my opinion but to make a boat original, you need to start with a boat in fairly good condition.


Rich
 
Binkie
#19 Print Post
Posted on 07/05/09 - 4:17 PM
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Sorry, forgot the picture

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...rprep1.jpg


Rich
 
kamie
#20 Print Post
Posted on 07/06/09 - 12:25 AM
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Rich,
somehow I remember yours in a lot worse shape than this one.

Except for the glue and the holes, the boat really isn't in bad shape. The carpet has kept the gelcoat in pretty good condition. I used buff magic on the bow and except for the fact it didn't take off the glue splatters, the hull shines up nice. The spot I did last year was still shiny As for the big holes, there is really only 2 sets that are bad, the crack in center of the boat and where the seat ripped out. I doubt I will sand off the entire floor just to fix those. It is entirely possible that I take off as much glue as I can, patch the holes and shine up the non-skid and leave the glue I could not get off. I am looking to get her in the water by next spring and a little glue on the non-skid is ok with me.

 
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