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LOTS of water in fuel tank
themclos	#41  Posted on 07/10/09 - 7:53 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 81 Comments: 3 Joined: 12/11/05	Narragansett, Your Photobucket account is password protected, so we are unable to see your project. Dan Dan 1986 22 Outrage Cuddy, 2002 225HP Optimax
HarleyFXDL	#42  Posted on 07/10/09 - 11:07 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 917 Comments: 30 Joined: 07/24/07	Thanks guys, I will definately pick your brains as the project progresses. Kevin 1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp. If you think education is expensive, try ignorance "Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman."
elmroc	#43  Posted on 07/10/09 - 2:02 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 78 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/14/05	>>>>> I would recommend refoaming in place with some Greatstuff I wouldn't, and is not recommended. Salt water breaks this stuff down pretty quick 2-part foam only is recommended and should be used. Also, when refoaming, put the straps on first, as there is potential for the tank to lift, when the foam is put in, and begins to swell. Also, Harley, I watched as my marina removed my tank. What they did was drill 2 holes in the top of it, near each end. They then put sling straps thru the holes, and attached them to a forklift. The tank slid right out without any effort at all, and we didn't even have to hold the boat down. I've read hear about prying out with 2 x 4's and other means. It works alot easier if you have the ability to lift straight out. Good luck with your project! Edited by elmroc on 07/10/09 - 2:05 PM
HarleyFXDL	#44  Posted on 07/11/09 - 4:38 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 917 Comments: 30 Joined: 07/24/07	elmroc, where would a person buy the proper 2-part foam? Kevin 1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp. If you think education is expensive, try ignorance "Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman."
Eri	#45  Posted on 07/11/09 - 4:43 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 157 Comments: 4 Joined: 10/09/08	Elmroc, Where is it written that salt water breaks down great stuff? My understanding is its basically chemically the same as two part with the exception that it cures and expands a little quicker. Does that mean that houses on the Coasta Northeast should not use Great Stuff as an insulator? I used a chain fall to lift out the tank, unfortunately there is some adhesion of the foam to the tank so we still had to run something around the tank to break the foam away. Also you don't want to drill into a tank that may not be bad. I agree that you have to put the straps on first before foaming.
Phil T	#46  Posted on 07/11/09 - 5:55 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6994 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	To foam or not to foam, that is a worthy question. While using foam has merit, I will repeat the suggested technique posted by a few owners who have done a tank replacement. Using a composite plastic material (not starboard since you need a special adhesive, cut strips for the bottom and sides of the tank. Using the proper adhesive lay strips on the sides and V so that water may travel down and to the stern. With the strips in place, re-install the tank and install the straps. With the spacer pieces supporting the bottom and sides, I don't think using foam is necessary. If you want to foam, you could do just the corners. See Jeff's article on installing the self-prime pump and hose with strainer. With your garage, this would be a good winter project Kevin.
Narragansett Outrage	#47  Posted on 07/11/09 - 6:18 AM
Member Posts: 21 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/25/06	elmroc wrote: >>>>> I would recommend refoaming in place with some Greatstuff I wouldn't, and is not recommended. Salt water breaks this stuff down pretty quick 2-part foam only is recommended and should be used. Also, when refoaming, put the straps on first, as there is potential for the tank to lift, when the foam is put in, and begins to swell. Also, Harley, I watched as my marina removed my tank. What they did was drill 2 holes in the top of it, near each end. They then put sling straps thru the holes, and attached them to a forklift. The tank slid right out without any effort at all, and we didn't even have to hold the boat down. I've read hear about prying out with 2 x 4's and other means. It works alot easier if you have the ability to lift straight out. I would be very, very cautious when drilling holes in a fuel tank! Usually this is only done after the tank has been washed out with water several times - even remaining fumes can explode with a spark. I'm working on making my photos public - but what you'll see is that I used a come along strapped to the inflow (after remvoing the foam), and then gently, gently used a 2x4 to pop it loose. And again, I'll say that even Jeff says he would have put a brass drain tube in his boat if he had been fully pulling the tank. So, if that's an option, consider that over a mechanical pump solution. Clive Good luck with your project! Edited by Joe Kriz on 07/11/09 - 11:33 AM
HarleyFXDL	#48  Posted on 07/11/09 - 8:27 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 917 Comments: 30 Joined: 07/24/07	I would not be able to install a brass tube in the 18. My plan was to decrease the capacity of the tank by 3 gals to allow access to the rear of the tank. At this point I would be able to pop open the rear deck hatch and slip a wet vac nozzle into the cavity behind the tank to suck out any residual water. As far as the foam is concerned. does the tank really need to be foamed back in? If so, what is the best product to use? Kevin 1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp. If you think education is expensive, try ignorance "Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman."
hgoebel	#49  Posted on 07/11/09 - 9:01 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 5 Comments: 0 Joined: 04/28/09	Just replaced my tank on an Outrage 18. Some pearls of wisdom. 1. When the new tank is foamed in. Make sure that the edges of the foal are all smooth and even so that any water can run down to the stern of the boat when the trailer tongue is elevated. What I have happening is that some water remains in these pockets. I had to fun some small plastic tubine and attach it to my shop vac to get a complete "Dry". 2. I would also run a small plastic tube at the stern of the tank so that if any water get's under the tank you can remove it also. 3. I went to a deck fuel filler through one of the hatches and closed off the entire left channel so that water does not enter from that side. 4. I now pop the hatches at the end of the washdown to allow the top of the tank to dry completely. Learned these at the expense of replacing the tank at a cost of $2500.00 (Labor & tank). Good luck and take your time to plot the little things that will make life easier later.
elmroc	#50  Posted on 07/11/09 - 3:24 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 78 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/14/05	1) in my 30+ years as a class A machinist/toolmaker, i have never, ever seen aluminum "spark". I don't beleive Harley's tank is anything other than Aluminum. I should add, a hole saw was used. Harley, here's a link for West Marine's 2 part foam http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/28029/377%20710/0/foam/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377 710&Ne=0&Ntt=foam&Ntk=Primary Search&Ntx=mode matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=foam&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=95&subdeptNum=96&classNum=96 Edited by elmroc on 07/12/09 - 9:59 AM
HarleyFXDL	#51  Posted on 07/16/09 - 11:57 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 917 Comments: 30 Joined: 07/24/07	You are right Elm, the tank is aluminum. Thanks for the link. Kevin 1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp. If you think education is expensive, try ignorance "Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman."
theo	#52  Posted on 07/16/09 - 2:20 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 252 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/26/08	I've never owned an AC brush motor (like a drill for example) that doesn't spark like the dickens. Ted 1985 15' CC, 1994 60 hp Merc (Wednesday built), 5" jack plate
HarleyFXDL	#53  Posted on 10/25/09 - 9:41 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 917 Comments: 30 Joined: 07/24/07	I have been keeping track of the water situation in my fuel tank. It seems everytime it rains (the boat is not always covered) The fuel tank fills up with 6-9 gals of water. I pull the deck plate and pump it out. I am assuming the deck is leaking water into the fuel cavity and filling the fuel tank with all the water. Does a deck that is not sealed properly allow that much water to enter the tank cavity? If the deck is leaking is the water contained in the tank cavity alone or can it spread to the rest of the hull? Edited by HarleyFXDL on 10/25/09 - 9:42 AM Kevin 1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp. If you think education is expensive, try ignorance "Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman."
kamie	#54  Posted on 10/25/09 - 10:48 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	HarleyFXDL wrote: Does a deck that is not sealed properly allow that much water to enter the tank cavity? If the deck is leaking is the water contained in the tank cavity alone or can it spread to the rest of the hull? A deck that is not sealed lets lots of water into the tank cavity. The tank cavity is sealed and glecoated so water sitting in the cavity would have a very hard time getting into the rest of the boat. the rigging tunnel should be checked as several of us have found thin gelcoat that could cause an issue if water was allowed to sit in the tunnel. I would bet that you have a hole in the top of that tank and you need to replace it. To foam or not foam is, I think a personal preference, if it was me, I would have a new tank power coated and I would refoam it in with 2 part foam. http://www.shopmaninc.com/foam.html/foam.html one place that sells foam.
HarleyFXDL	#55  Posted on 10/25/09 - 1:13 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 917 Comments: 30 Joined: 07/24/07	I think you're right kamie. The water must be coming through the gap in the deck. I noticed that there are sections that the chalking is cracked. I hope that the only water in the hull is in the tank cavity. If that is the case, then I should be able to get most of the water out of the hull when I replace the tank/foam. I saw the website for the foam, there are many different weights of foam, which one is recommended for Whalers? Edited by HarleyFXDL on 10/25/09 - 6:05 PM Kevin 1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp. If you think education is expensive, try ignorance "Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman."
kamie	#56  Posted on 10/25/09 - 2:01 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	The people that I know who have refoamed their whalers use the standard 2lb foam.
HarleyFXDL	#57  Posted on 10/26/09 - 6:49 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 917 Comments: 30 Joined: 07/24/07	would the other foams be better, worse or have no benefit? Kevin 1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp. If you think education is expensive, try ignorance "Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman."
VW Whaler	#58  Posted on 10/26/09 - 9:32 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 50 Comments: 3 Joined: 04/20/09	I just finished redoing my deck on my 84 18ft outrage. The previous owner had replaced the gas tank already. I went ahead and pulled the tank to check for cracks in the hull underneith the tank. The tank fits so snug that I plan not to foam around the tank so the water can evporate better. I had the tank out for a few weeks and the foam that was still on the side walls was still saturated with water when I finialy got around to removing it. It just holds water. I plan on opening my hatches on my deck cover to air it out after boating. I also put some under coating on the bottom and sides of the gas tank In hopes of keeping the tank a bit longer. Good luck. Erick 1968 13 ft whaler Erick
VW Whaler	#59  Posted on 10/26/09 - 9:52 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 50 Comments: 3 Joined: 04/20/09	I have a good way or removing the gas tank that I found out by accident. I removed what foam I had around the sides of the tank. Someone used great stuff on top of the original foam. The tank was replaced a few years ago so the original foam was not glued to the tank. On an 18ft outrage the gap around the tank is so tight that I gave up on lifting it up. But one day we had a really big rain and my boat was outside with no cover. I walked around the back of it and looked in and the tank was floating from all the rain water that was in the well! I lifted it out by myself! Easy, use Mother Nature to your advantage when you can! LOL! I did spend all summer getting the gas out of it by running it in my mower. It was nice having a gas station at my house! I think I might put in quick disconnect fuel lines on my boat so I can use it as a gas station for my generator and mowers. Keeps it fresh by using it up.! LOL! Later Erick 1968 13 ft whaler Erick
HarleyFXDL	#60  Posted on 11/02/09 - 1:42 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 917 Comments: 30 Joined: 07/24/07	Need some advice, I am ordering the new tank for my boat. I am thinking of have the tank made 1 1/4" shorter so I can get behind the tank to suck out any water that might get into the tank cavity. Does anyone see any problems with this thought? Kevin 1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp. If you think education is expensive, try ignorance "Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman."