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Wood finish questions
Mr T	#1  Posted on 06/29/09 - 7:58 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 230 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/07/08	In the process of making a RPS, and wanted to get input on finishes to use. My mahogany console has two different coverings on it. The plywood was done using Helmsman spar varnish from a local hardware store. Two seasons in, it looks pretty good but there are a few spots that need touchup from wear and rubbing from ice chests etc. The corners and trim are the original wood from the factory (circa 1970). I wanted to keep them as they looked pretty solid, and I liked the idea of saving them. I did a lot of sanding on them to get to fresh non-bleached wood before covering them. Because of the age I thought (was told), it would be better to use a higher grade of varnish, so they got a bunch (8) of coats of Interlux schooner. They have not held up well at all. Some of the finish has come totally off the wood, mainly around the front where the wind and salt hits it hardest. I need to redo the console trim, and the new RPS backrest. I have heard good things about Cetol natural marine teak finish and am thinking of trying it. Anyone have input on finish and what you found worked best?
Tom W Clark	#2  Posted on 06/29/09 - 8:04 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	Everybody has their own opinions, but mine is that Cetol on a Whaler is blasphemy. I can't stand the look of it especially in comparison to a proper varnish finish
Mr T	#3  Posted on 06/29/09 - 8:14 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 230 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/07/08	Tom W Clark wrote: Everybody has their own opinions, but mine is that Cetol on a Whaler is blasphemy. I can't stand the look of it especially in comparison to a proper varnish finish Why blasphemy? I know some comments are out there about an orange color. So what do you use on your brightwork?
Guts	#4  Posted on 06/29/09 - 8:24 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 612 Comments: 8 Joined: 11/21/08	just sealer for me. goes on easy and wipes of the fiber glass with no residue. no muss no fuss...
MW	#5  Posted on 06/29/09 - 9:17 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1827 Comments: 10 Joined: 01/08/06	I like "Zar" Polyurathane, maybe there's something better but, I've been using it for years. Everybody likes something different, depend's on the "look" you want, and what product's you like working with. Matt
Tim Erwin	#6  Posted on 06/29/09 - 9:48 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 44 Comments: 1 Joined: 05/04/08	I have been a varnish slave for years now. Besides my montauk, I also have a classic 1966 Alberg 30 sailboat. This discussion is endless and whatever works for you, you will stick with it. This whole subject has everything to do with direct exposure to the hot sun or is the boat covered. Nothing is prettier and smells better than fresh traditional spar varnish. If the boat is covered or garaged, I use traditional spar varnish with uv filters (dark). My sailboat stays in the water and in the damaging South Texas sun. I have used traditional varnish up until this last time. Down here the tradioional varnish doesn't last a year. To keep it up right I had to lightly scratch the surface and recoat every 6 mo. I too would have NEVER used Cetol on my beautiful sailboat. I changed my opinion when Cetol came out with the new natural teak color. I put 3 coats then put 3 coats of the clear coat. There is zero orange and it is beautiful. just my $.02 Tim Edited by Tim Erwin on 06/29/09 - 9:49 AM Tim Erwin -1975 Montauk II, Yamaha 70 2cycle
Narragansett Outrage	#7  Posted on 07/01/09 - 10:47 AM
Member Posts: 21 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/25/06	After much research, I'm going to be going with a varnish called, "Le Tonkinois"; it apparently goes on without thinning the first couple of coats, and ends up being easy to maintain. I heard about it from a guy who works at the boat restoration place in Newport here in RI. I've just started sanding, so I'll let you know how it goes.
MCathcart	#8  Posted on 07/01/09 - 11:05 AM
Member Posts: 9 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/06/09	Tim I haven't seen (found) the Teak Cetol. Like you I've owned Sailboats for many years and I've used several different finishes. Bad or Good, the Cetol will last a year or two longer than anything I've used. I'll look for the new Teak!
bccanucker	#9  Posted on 07/01/09 - 1:02 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 61 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/11/09	Hi: I believe the second paragraph by Tim Erwin is very true. I have been varnishing since 1986 and my 1st choice is Interlux Schooner (their classic varnish) and second is Interlux Goldspar (a one part Polyurethane) The Schooner is just a tad shinier and the Goldspar is more durable. When I redo the our new (to us) '83 Montauk brightwork this winter it will be with Schooner. I loooove the compliments people give it My 2 c Roy Warner 1983 17 Montauk - 1998 Yamaha 115 V4 2 stroke
Blackduck	#10  Posted on 07/01/09 - 1:19 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 519 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/25/06	Guts wrote: just sealer for me. goes on easy and wipes of the fiber glass with no residue. no muss no fuss... Hey Guts, What shade of Semco are you using? Your Montauk looks real good. Walter Reynolds 1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
Guts	#11  Posted on 07/01/09 - 2:30 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 612 Comments: 8 Joined: 11/21/08	Teak Sealer - Natural, Quart west marine# 516047 manufacture# 10224