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13' 1961 whaler with wet foam
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| modenacart |
Posted on 11/21/09 - 2:13 PM
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Just because there is wet foam doesn't mean its a problem. I would imagine almost all old whalers have some water in the foam, just how much. I think how the boat drafts would be most important.
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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| John Fyke |
Posted on 11/21/09 - 5:26 PM
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Looks like a great father-son project. You can't put a price on that..
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| mstahl1171 |
Posted on 11/22/09 - 4:15 AM
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Here is what I did to dry my foam out: I drilled 1/2" holes in my deck where I had water in the foam. I knew this because a had a section of the deck near the stern that had a bad repair job from the previous owner. (See my personl page for pics) After drilling a dozen or so holes...I flipped the boat over on the trailer and let it sit for 2 weeks. It took that long for the dripping to stop...lol I check it yesterday and the foam seems to be very dry and solid. I have a few spots that I need to add foam since the previous owner used spray foam from Home Depot to make repairs...huge no no!! I'll post some pics and show you exactly how to remove the water. You can also just cut out small sections of the deck where you are sure you have water. One section that I did, I just removed the bad repair spot...left the foam in place and let it drip dry when I flipped the boat. I also took some flour....yes...I said flour and poured in the bad area that I removed and it soaked up all the oil and gas and anything else.
Mark
1965 13' Sport ...1962 Evinrude 40hp |
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| fathersonwhaler |
Posted on 11/23/09 - 1:18 PM
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thanks! ill get the boat weighed then ill drill the holes if i need to.
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| ritzyrags |
Posted on 11/23/09 - 3:03 PM
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Dad and Son;
It is possible that you may find some useful info regarding your questions on this very site.
You may want to scan these files.
I guarantee that there will be at least one pertinent question answered. there.
The pages are;
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...ad_id=4842
And
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...lbum_id=13
Good Hunting.
Dont lie
Dont Cheat
And dont give up.. |
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| Binkie |
Posted on 11/24/09 - 4:27 AM
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I have to agree with Finnigan. Unless I was going to modify a 13 footer such as raising the floor, I wouldn`t mess with tearing the floor out. I paid 1k for my dry `61 13 footer,(280lbs, bare hull.) including the trailer which is worth $500.
BTW Finnigan (Larry) owns a couple or more of the most beautiful Whalers you can imagine. Check him out on continuous wave boston whaler. He goes by L H G over there.
Rich |
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| andyf |
Posted on 11/24/09 - 2:58 PM
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Okay, here's my .02$. I opened up the floor of my 1967 Eastport and have stripped just about all of the old foam, and it was wet, wet wet......the good thing about it has been that I have a much better understanding of how the hull is formed, how the center console well and cable chase are supported and truly how wet the foam was. When stripping the foam I've also discoved as suspected that the water does not migrate very well from wet foam so drilling holes probably won't get much out at all. The water does however seem to works it's way down and sit along the keel. As much as someone may say there are dry older whalers, I guess it depends on your definition of dry. Mine will have completely new foam, new marine ply under the floor, new glass on the floor, the hull will be stripped and resealed with Epiglass HT900 and Interlux.....the one thing I've researched to help prevent blisters when the whole thing is repainted.
I'll keep taking photos then try to get them posted. They will really help if anyone wants to know that the inside of an older 16 looks like.
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| modenacart |
Posted on 11/24/09 - 6:15 PM
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andyf,
It would be great to have a picture of how it drafts after you replaced the foam.
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 11/24/09 - 7:38 PM
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Yeah, before and after would be great to compare!
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| harleydmn |
Posted on 11/25/09 - 4:36 AM
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I would love to see the pics. On my Sakonnet someone added a drain with plug right at the bottom of my transom. I have not weight the boat but it sits right below the water line when I put it in to test run it. I opened the plug to check it out, left it open for about a month and not a drop of water came out.
After opening yours up, do you think this drain was a good idea?
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| CES |
Posted on 11/25/09 - 7:32 AM
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Ya, that would be pretty cool to see the hull with the floor and foam removed.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| drchpeteros |
Posted on 11/26/09 - 7:25 AM
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harleydmn wrote:
I would love to see the pics. On my Sakonnet someone added a drain with plug right at the bottom of my transom. I have not weight the boat but it sits right below the water line when I put it in to test run it. I opened the plug to check it out, left it open for about a month and not a drop of water came out.
I've considered adding a plug to my lower transom also. This absolutely makes the most sense of all. I witnessed water seeping UP, YES UP, through 6 small holes the previous owner drilled in the stern flooring to screw things down. One afternoon as the sun warmed the deck the water came seeping UP through the holes. I haven't done anything yet but the plug seems simple and reasonable. That way it can be removed whenever you haul out. BW says to drill holes at the lowest point to drain anyway, so why not a plug? Anyone have a picture or diagram of the cross section of this part of the hull so I know where to drill for plug placement? My hull is 1992 Super Sport.
The plug has to be the way to go!
Then...how do I fill the 6 deck holes to make them water tight? Tried marine-tex but the water pushed it right out or would not allow it to stick.
Edited by Tom W Clark on 11/26/09 - 8:12 AM |
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| frstevec |
Posted on 11/26/09 - 7:34 AM
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SEALING DECK SCREW HOLES: Gorilla glue uses moisture to activate. I put GG in deck holes after vacuuming them to remove excess water. The GG foamed up in a small spout which I trimmed off. Sealed. Careful not to over do it. It's hard to remove overflow runs. Ask me how I know.
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| JohnnyCW |
Posted on 11/26/09 - 8:29 AM
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I've read a few posts of concern from others about compromising the strength of the vessel when anyone mentions removing the original floor. Okay, I understand the concern. But does anyone have any experience or evidence of a failed hull from such restoration when properly done?
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| drchpeteros |
Posted on 11/27/09 - 8:20 AM
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Does anyone truly know the volume in between the hull and deck? That volume is obviously the maximum water that could be in any hull. Is there really that much volume between the 2 layers??? And does the water necessarily find it's way to the bottom? If it's closed cell it theoretically can't absorb and therefor the water must be between it and the deck or hull.
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| harleydmn |
Posted on 11/27/09 - 9:52 AM
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I will try to post a pick of my drain tomorrow to give you an idea what was done to mine.
Edited by Joe Kriz on 11/27/09 - 1:41 PM |
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| modenacart |
Posted on 11/27/09 - 11:49 AM
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drchpeteros wrote:
I've considered adding a plug to my lower transom also. This absolutely makes the most sense of all. I witnessed water seeping UP, YES UP, through 6 small holes the previous owner drilled in the stern flooring to screw things down. One afternoon as the sun warmed the deck the water came seeping UP through the holes. I haven't done anything yet but the plug seems simple and reasonable. That way it can be removed whenever you haul out. BW says to drill holes at the lowest point to drain anyway, so why not a plug? Anyone have a picture or diagram of the cross section of this part of the hull so I know where to drill for plug placement? My hull is 1992 Super Sport.
The plug has to be the way to go!
Then...how do I fill the 6 deck holes to make them water tight? Tried marine-tex but the water pushed it right out or would not allow it to stick.
Just because water comes may not mean water in the foam. It could just be in the wood. I thought I had water in my foam because of a wet spot near the stern, but I opened it up and dug out the foam and it was try as a bone, but the wood was soaking wet and rotted. I guess the wood needed to come up but I will not open the other side and will just refoam and glass over.
Edited by Joe Kriz on 11/27/09 - 1:42 PM
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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| harleydmn |
Posted on 11/28/09 - 6:49 AM
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Here is a picture of the plug in my whaler...
http://s744.photobucket.com/albums/xx...nt=005.jpg
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| drchpeteros |
Posted on 11/29/09 - 5:43 PM
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harleydmn - thanks for the pic. I'm seriously considering this but...you've never had water come out? Do you have reason to believe there ever was or is watter in the hull? I'm only balking because I can't be sure the water beneath my deck will migrate, reach, and come out the bottom.
What is that other piece of hardware to the right side of the picture?
Anyone know the volume of the interior of the hull space beneath the deck?
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| harleydmn |
Posted on 11/30/09 - 3:33 AM
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I just got the boat this fall, I'm not sure if the boat ever had any water but there was lots of screw holes everwhere that I had to seal. The boats drafts well so I believe it is dry. To the right of the plug is my transducer.
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