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Painting of 1967 Eastport - Need some advice
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| pymapete |
Posted on 06/15/09 - 6:33 PM
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We enjoy reading all of the great info on the threads and now we are at the point where we need some advice from the whaler experts. We have a 1967 Eastport that we have been working on for 11 months. It is totally stripped and we are ready to paint. We want to do the whaler blue and whaler white. It will be a trailered boat and most likely not moored in the water. We would appreciate advice as to what type paint , primer, etc. and the process. We intend on rolling it. I believe I have read that 2 coats primer and 2 coats Interlux Perfection was recommended but if this is still the best, can it be used both on the interior as well as the hull? Thanks .
Edited by Joe Kriz on 08/25/12 - 5:01 PM |
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| thetis |
Posted on 06/16/09 - 12:12 PM
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I painted my 64 Sakonett last spring, 2 coats primer and 2 coats Single-Part Polyurethane. I rolled it on and brushed it out. Very pleased with the results.
My boat is moored out all summer, so it gets hard use.
Although the purists may not agree, I used the Interlux 4359 white for the exterior and the light blue 4351 for the interior. I went this way for the ease of colour matching in the future[mail][/mail]
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| pymapete |
Posted on 06/16/09 - 1:03 PM
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Thetis - thanks for replying. We will take all the input we can get. Do you mind if we check in with you again if needed? Thanks
eastport67Pete |
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| wannabe |
Posted on 06/16/09 - 1:11 PM
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They have said in the past there is no paint guaranteed not to come off if left in the water for an extended period of time.
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| LabCab |
Posted on 06/17/09 - 2:03 PM
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Jamestown Distributers has quarts of Awlgrip custom mixed in Whaler Blue for about $60.00 a quart. Their shipping charges are not outlandish either. And if you join their Captain's Club for something like $39.00 all your shipping charges are FREE for a year. Of course you will have to also buy the primer, activator and rolling reducer. But the Perfection system costs a bit too and the color is not authentic. You can roll and tip Awlgrip. I hope to do it. I was going to do something cheaper but after all the work to prepare the surface it makes sense to paint it with something that will last many years.
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| Jim R |
Posted on 06/17/09 - 2:51 PM
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Awlgrip is a great paint system to go with. It offers more durability than a one part topcoat and has been an industry standard since the beginning of time. If you go with Awlgrip, make sure you check out their website and their Paint Application Guide. The guide will give practical tips on surface preparation, primers, and topcoat application. You can get a stunning finish with a brush as long as you prep correctly and mix correctly. Make sure you get a good respirator, like the 3M7502 or 3M6000 with the organic vapor cartridges. The respirator will ensure you live to see your fine finish! Good Luck.
Jim
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| kamie |
Posted on 06/17/09 - 3:06 PM
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I have to ask, are you sure you have to paint the boat? How bad is the gelcoat really, is it cracked and crazed all over or is it just really oxidized? Unless by stripped, you mean you have already taken all the gelcoat off the boat with a sander?
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| pymapete |
Posted on 06/17/09 - 3:58 PM
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Thanks to all who have replied. We will research the Awlgrip system as suggested and agree, we have put enough work into this that we aren't going to blow it now. We have sanded the entire boat with 150 grit and what I believe now requires us to paint, is the fact that we drilled and routered all gel coat cracks and filled with fiberglass. I bought 2 quarts of gel coat ( whaler blue and whaler white ) thru Spectrum not realizing it would be impossible to match the old gel coat. We have made many mistakes to date and that was a $200 one as they won't take it back and I apparently have no use for these unopened cans. That is why we are a little gun shy and want to make sure we get the right stuff this time. It is fun and a learning process that has kept my wife and I busy. We also have a 17' 1980 montauk that is our pride and joy and we only hope we can make this Eastport get the looks that our Montauk gets. Thanks again for the advice and we welcome more.
eastport67Pete |
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| jquigley |
Posted on 06/17/09 - 5:04 PM
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I would suggest you post a for sale ad in the appropriate section here. I think it is probably ridiculous to ship cost wise due to being hazardous, but someone local might want to pick that up from you if you don't intend to use it.
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| Barryg |
Posted on 06/17/09 - 7:09 PM
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Pete , my first choice is gelcoat and I am a little confused why it will not match your existing color? BG
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| Binkie |
Posted on 06/17/09 - 7:17 PM
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In the last 30 years I`ve painted about 15 boats with AwlGrip, with no problems whatsoever. I`ve sprayed then all, but have rolled and tipped AwlGrip accent trim on my Bass Boat, with good results. I`ve found that the best and least expensive place to buy this paint is FINISHMASTER AUTOMOTIVE AND INDUSTRIAL PAINT. They know this product and can be of help, and will color match if you have a sample. They are a national chain in a city near you. http://www.finishmaster.com/ I also have a VHS tape of BRUSHING AWLGRIP I will lend you if you have the means to play it. It will show you in detail how to do it. AwlGrip will last for about 10 years, where a single part poly or epoxy paint will last 2 years. AwlGrip primer (545Epoxy primer) will require a different type of roller cover than the polyurethane top coat. Both the primer and top coat are two part paints, and require their own catalyst and reducer. It is expensive, no doubt, but in my opinion, the only way to go. Other two part poly paints are just as expensive, especially if you buy them in marine retail stores.
If you roll and tip use THIN coats as the paint is thin and likes to run.
Rich |
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| Eri |
Posted on 06/18/09 - 5:08 AM
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AWLGRIP for sure. You can take a look at my personal page to see what I have done so far. Expensive but its worth it and not supposed to fade like gelcoat and it seems really durable. Spray it on. It flows out really nice. AWLGRIP will match your colors if you send them a sample although your colors are probably really faded. The downside is that the paint is so nice you really have to do your prep work carefully. I used the fairing filler, epoxy primer 2 1/2 coats, topcoat 3 coats. My 18 used about 3 gallons of primer and topcoat which is actually 1 1/2 gallons of primer and 1 1/2 gallons topcoat with 1 to 1 mix with what they call converter. I used a little thinner but not near the 25 percent you can used to spread it out a little more. One gallon of fairing filler plus converter. Total about $2000.
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| pymapete |
Posted on 06/20/09 - 5:55 AM
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Thanks again to all. Seems like Awlgrip would be best for us. We are going to try to stay as original as possible yet functional. Our Montauk will stay on Lake Erie and this Eastport we plan on taking to New Smyrna Beach, FL. We just finished our trailer last night and now plan on getting back to the boat. Chose not to gel coat as it appeared we would have to do the entire boat to match perfectly and it is something we did not think we could do ourselves. We want to do the work ourselves.
Binkie, we may take you up on your offer and will certainly stay in touch as our wood restoration will follow our painting. Your boat is beautiful.
Eri, we may not have the ability to spray but will keep that option open and appreciate your tips.
Do we need to drill out our (rivoted) cover snaps that are on the boat ? Didn't think I could get a smooth roll with these in place. Lot of work if I do this but these are in a visible area. I would have to use a brush in this area and some comments indicate brushing does a great job too.
Thanks again. Sorry for being lenghtly and we will do pictures someday whenever we learn how to do that. Challanged enough learning this stuff.
eastport67Pete |
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| Jim R |
Posted on 06/20/09 - 8:15 AM
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I think your right to drill out the riveted snaps. In a perfect world, you want to remove all hardware before sanding, priming, and painting. You'll want to consider how you'll put new snaps on afterwards before you drill out the rivets.
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| Barryg |
Posted on 06/20/09 - 11:57 AM
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I just cut he heads off of the rivots and pushed them in. no worries. BG
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| pymapete |
Posted on 06/20/09 - 6:34 PM
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We are researching the Awlgrip and can't find a topcoat that can be used both topside and bottomside and also interior. The Primer 545 can be used on both topside and bottom. Any suggestions or do we have to do a below waterline paint separate from the topside?
eastport67Pete |
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| Jim R |
Posted on 06/20/09 - 7:20 PM
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You can use Awlgrip topcoat topside, inside, and bottom. If you plan to leave the boat in the water for extended periods, that can be a problem with blisters etc. - just like gelcoat. If you're trailering or are on a lift, then no worries. If you plan to apply an anti-foul coating to the bottom, you can apply it directly over the 545 primer. 545 is actually a great substrate to apply the anti-foul to. If you sand the 545 with 120 grit and apply the anti-foul coating, you'll be in business. It's also worth pointing out that you don't have to use awlgrip's anti-foul product. Just about any ablative or hard coated bottom paint will adhere beautifully to the sanded 545.
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| kevincook |
Posted on 06/22/09 - 7:31 AM
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I'm currently painting the outside of my 16' with Interlux Perfection. I plan to flip the boat next weekend to start painting the interior. Should I add the flattening agent for the interior to reduce the gloss. I'm inclined to leave the interior, except for the non-skid, as a high gloss finish.
What does everyone think?
Kevin
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| Jim R |
Posted on 06/22/09 - 9:23 AM
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Kevin,
Go with what you like. I personally prefer gloss, because it will hold up a little better than a flattened coating and can be easier to keep clean. I also like shiny stuff. But if you like a more satin type finish then go for it. One piece of advice: if you choose to add flattening agent to the topcoat, make sure you record your paint mix recipe. If you have to make a repair down the road and need to repaint a section, you'll be able to closely match the gloss. I've wasted a lot of paint in the past by not doing this.
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| pymapete |
Posted on 06/22/09 - 5:37 PM
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Thanks for that great info Jim R. We are relieved at what you said about the topside & bottom. Now just deciding what to order and the fun begins. We also are going with the gloss on the interior - after looking like it does for so many months it deserves to SHINE! Later............
Pete & Donna
eastport67Pete |
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