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Control Cable Set Up Outrage 18 good?
WhalerDan
#1 Print Post
Posted on 03/29/09 - 1:30 PM
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Here's the stern end control cable set up on my 18 Outrage with twins. The cables are 18 feet starboard and 20 feet port. These photos were taken when I bought the boat in December. Since then I've rewired. I bought new cables the same length, and I'm trying to decide whether or not to put shorter cables on. Does the set up in photos look good? I'd like some opinions. Should I redo things the same way, or get shorter cables. I could move the 18 footer to port and buy 16's for the starboard -- but that would only shorten by 2 feet. Thanks.


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Edited by WhalerDan on 03/29/09 - 1:34 PM
 
WhalerDan
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Posted on 03/29/09 - 1:31 PM
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second photos


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WhalerDan
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Posted on 03/29/09 - 1:33 PM
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last photo


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Joe Kriz
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Posted on 03/29/09 - 2:41 PM
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I'm sure you will get many opinions on this...

Here's mine.
Everything looks good.
I think the starboard engine is perfect. The port engine could use another foot to match the starboard side but will work just the way it is.



 
Phil T
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Posted on 03/29/09 - 2:42 PM
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Okay, remember, you asked for opinions Smile

I admit, I like rigging to be neat and tidy (think new boat with the rigging hose). I redid the rigging on my Montauk's 90 hp Yamaha as well as my Outrage's F115 engine.

With your setup, consider this:

While allowing enough slack for turning and tilting, run 1 rigging hose from each motor grommet forward to the back of the "dam" (where there are currently some type of clips) and along to the starboard side and then up and over the dam into the tunnel.

I would add the gas lines to the main hose close to the engine using a fuel port unions (see link below for product information). For your primer's add two unions in the main hose where you want them to be.

Of course to do all this means de-rigging the engines and fuel lines, threading the cables and harnesses and redoing the primer bulbs.

There are 4 components:

1.Grommet converter - replaces grommet to mate to hose

2 Engine grommet cover and tie.

3. Rigging hose

4. Rigging hose fuel port union

Items 1-3 are available at a dealer.

I added a photo of my rigging hose to my personal page.

If this is too much, just cover the existing with hose to keep them protected from sun, salt and water.


Edited by Phil T on 03/29/09 - 2:44 PM
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
 
Finnegan
#6 Print Post
Posted on 03/29/09 - 2:53 PM
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I differ with you guys and don't like that rigging job at all, especially all that double loop stuff, which is cluttered and not necessary. I do think the cables and fuel hoses are too long.

I am used to the super clean look on my 18 with twins! (3rd photo down)

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refe...acket.html.

Admittedly, my jackplates help clean up the splashwell, but in this case I would run the ignition harnesses and cables up higher with the steering cables, and up under the engine brackets. Then simply swing out single loops to go into the engines as necessary. Bundle up extra length of the harnesses in the console.


Edited by Finnegan on 03/29/09 - 2:55 PM
 
WhalerDan
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Posted on 03/29/09 - 3:46 PM
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The photos are before the new fuel lines, new battery cables, and new control cables. Everything is loose now. I wanted the opinions to help when I redo things and to know if I should get shorter control cables. I do have some of the split loom stuff. I didn't know it came in Yamaha blue -- looks really cool, but I don't know if I want to spring for the extra money, and I don't need 25 feet. Maybe In2Deep with split it with me. I think black will be fine.

 
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