2004 305 Conquest suggestion for replacing seacock valves
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stratocaster |
Posted on 03/20/09 - 10:50 AM
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Hi All,
Just joined Whaler Central. Also just bought my first Whaler.
During this winter I was doing some clean up on the boat and turned the livewell/raw washdown seacock to exersise it and the handle broke right down to the stem. Fortunately it broke in the closed postion. The valves are some sort of plastic. There are four seacocks all made of plastic. I was surprised. Each of them seem really flimsy. I was thinking about replacing the three 3/4' ones (size ?) with brass. I'm going to leave the macerator one alone. Would any old brass valve of similar size do? I found some at Home Depot that look like they'd work well. I'm not near my boat at the moment. I don't remember the diameter of the through hull fitting the valve screws onto. Does anyone out there know?
Does anyone have any suggestions? Should I just go to the BW dealer and buy a replacement plactic valve?
thanks in advance
Stratocaster
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Edited by stratocaster on 03/20/09 - 10:54 AM |
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jollyrog305 |
Posted on 03/20/09 - 11:21 AM
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I believe the the valve is available at West Marine - http://www.westmarine.com/1/1/28780-a-marelon-ball-valves-3-4-from-forespar.html. The BW part number is 0557959. You could probabaly do it youself, but I imagine you would need the boat out of the water.
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RevengeFamily |
Posted on 03/20/09 - 7:23 PM
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I guess I should double check mine before getting her wet this spring. I have a 1999 285 Conquest. I have exercised my seacocks in the past but don't remember them being so flimsy. I wonder if BW is using different valves? I'll keep you posted of what I see on mine. Let us know how you make out.
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stratocaster |
Posted on 03/23/09 - 4:30 AM
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Thanks for the replies. I haven't had a chance to replace my seacock valves. I had my hands full this weekend with general cleaning and compounding/waxing. I stopped by the Whaler dealer in my area and was telling him the story of me working the livewell seacock and before I could finish he was telling me that I broke the handle off. He said it happens alot. He suggested opening and closing them at least once a month. The more the better. I showed him my home depot 3/4' brass valve he said it should work fine. My only concern is the handle will rust. I'll post a pic of it when I get a chance.
thanks
stratocaster
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Meridian |
Posted on 03/23/09 - 6:25 AM
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You need to use bronze not brass. The brass won’t rust but it is made of copper and zinc. The zinc will eventually leach out and the valve will disintegrate.
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stratocaster |
Posted on 03/23/09 - 3:36 PM
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You are absolutely right. What was I thinking. Thanks for the info.
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stratocaster |
Posted on 03/26/09 - 12:49 PM
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Thanks all for the advice. I finished replacing the valve. As it turns out I decided to go with the West Marine forespar plastic replacement valve that jollyrog305 suggested. Thanks Jollyrog305! I came to the realization that the plastic replacement is actually a good idea since it won't corrode and it's not conductive. Like any valve you need to maintain them. While I was replacing the livewell seacock I checked all the other valves. I noticed the air conditioning seacock was sticking pretty bad. I took it off and greased it and it's fine now.
thanks again!
Stratocaster
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jollyrog305 |
Posted on 03/26/09 - 1:22 PM
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No problem. Was it a pain to replace? I am going to check all mine this weekend before she gets put back in the water in a few days.
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stratocaster |
Posted on 03/27/09 - 5:12 AM
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It was very easy. I checked all my valves. The only one that was having issues was the AC valve. It was sticking pretty bad. Fortunately the valve comes apart at the bottom and I was able grease it up. See pic below.
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