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Need some input on how to best match a 40 yr old original console. I've got er stripped and did some filling and dowel work and have it at a good place right now. I haven't gotten into staining the filler yet (I have some large areas) and would like to see how you all may have done it to get a good match.
I also sadly realized I'll be springing for a new console at some point when funds free up, this console will not give me the final product I'm looking for. It's just too beat up, but I feel like it will look fantastic from outside the boat so that will buy me a couple years.
Just so happens I have been re-doing my steering console too. I added new Mahogony to the older stuff and they did not match. What I did was use a darker stain for the whole console and allowed the stain to stay on the newer, lighter wood longer then on the older and darker wood before wiping it off. As you can see in the Project Album link on this site, the new wood and older wood match exactly.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
Save your dust from sanding and cram it into your voids around dowels, or small cracks etc after mixing it with a little epoxy. you should get a peanut buttery consistency. The finer dust is better for this generally.
When I add new wood I drop it in the driveway a few times and sand down the corners/ edges, then stain, and finish. This gives it a "Worn" look that matches the rest of the woodwork on the hull so it does'nt "Jump out" at you screaming "New". The finish sticks better to the edges too, pointy edges wear down first on the finish. The console may turn out better than you think when you are finished the Brightwork, it often does.
I planed all the wood on my sourpuss as the center top board had lots of water damage. Then i sanded it an put 7 coats of Helmsman urethane on it sanding with 400 wet between coats. Take a look at my personal page. Looks brand new. Planed about 1/8 off between both sides. I was suprised how nice the wood was underneath the mess.
