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New, Bare Hull Guardian 19' to Montauk 190 Project
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| Jeff |
Posted on 12/09/08 - 9:14 PM
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Posts: 1987
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Joined: 04/02/05
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I found this last week. While I have never ordered from this site my father has and has been happy with the products and service.
Bow Light.
I was thinking of ordering one for my new 13 project. I am not sure if it is from the OEM manufacture or not but, it looks great, and for the price it is tough to beat.
Edited by Jeff on 12/09/08 - 9:17 PM
1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive |
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| acordts |
Posted on 12/10/08 - 6:23 PM
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This is the E-tec 115 I just bolted on. While I am awaiting the consule, I'll put on the Baystar hydraulic; then start running the engine harness, oil tube, battery cables, a sonar transducer wire, nav lights electrical wire, and hydraulic lines under the floor...
OK, Ill use a new bow fixture, Mr. JK. That price for the fixture just posted to me makes me cry. I already ordered the same part more expensively. Maybe I won't make the same mistake ordering a Baystar hydraulic kit.
acordts attached the following image:
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Edited by acordts on 12/10/08 - 6:31 PM |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 12/10/08 - 6:55 PM
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Nice engine Mr. SK....... (SauerKraut)
Nice looking installation but your rub rail is already falling off.... 
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| Jeff |
Posted on 12/10/08 - 7:21 PM
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Member
Posts: 1987
Comments:
34
Joined: 04/02/05
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Talk to Seabob before buying a Teleflex Baystar hydraulic kit of any kind.
1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive |
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| Jeff |
Posted on 12/11/08 - 7:09 AM
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Member
Posts: 1987
Comments:
34
Joined: 04/02/05
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BTW sauerkraut,
Where and how did you get new, bare hull Guardian? Were you able to order it without a motor?
1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 12/11/08 - 9:34 AM
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Also curious how you were able to swing rigging the Etec yourself, was a local dealer agreeable?
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| acordts |
Posted on 12/13/08 - 10:29 AM
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Yes, I was able to find a local dealer who was willing to forklift the still crated motor into the back of my truck. Furthermore and unasked, he even sent me home with the drilling template, the drillbit, and the bolt on lifting eye out of his shop to handle the engine.
When the project is completed, however, I will bring the rig to him because he wants to be the first person to start and program the engine. Now this is what I call a dealer!
Any number of others didn't trust me beyond my diapers. So, instead of the engine costing me "x" amount of $$, it was x + $ up to $1200 for them to do it.
Edited by acordts on 12/13/08 - 10:31 AM |
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| acordts |
Posted on 01/06/09 - 6:43 PM
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The project is moving along, albeit slowly as it is COLD an an unheated garage and tough to get psyched up to get down to work. Also awaiting the center consule to get fabricated.
I think it is advantageous that I managed to stuff the battery, E-tec oil reservoir, fuel/water seperator filter, bilge pump, and battery cutoff switch below deck via the hatch access in the splashwell. This leaves the boat neat and clean topside, and it frees up in entirety the valuable and limited weather and waterproof area inside the center consule. This will be a maintenance hassle; but the other 29 out of 30 times I use the boat, all this "stuff" is mercifully out of the way.
Edited by acordts on 01/06/09 - 6:59 PM |
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| ioptfm |
Posted on 01/06/09 - 6:55 PM
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Any photo updates you can add?
Tom
1979 Sport 15' |
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| acordts |
Posted on 01/23/09 - 8:38 PM
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This is about Whaler Inc. rigging of their running lights on some of their models. Why in the world would they place a stern light post right in the middle of a center consule? Why, right in front of the pilot trying for his best night vision? And why would anyone design to take up such valuable and limited consule flat space with a fixture, when this space is needed for compasses, electronics, or some hooks and gear?
Here's my solution which I have used on streamlining and rerigging of two other small boats. It works so well, I'm surprised the outboard manufacturers don't do this from the factory.
acordts attached the following image:
[57.94Kb]
Edited by acordts on 01/23/09 - 8:52 PM |
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| acordts |
Posted on 01/23/09 - 9:11 PM
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sauerkraut wrote:
The project is moving along, albeit slowly as it is COLD an an unheated garage and tough to get psyched up to get down to work. Also awaiting the center consule to get fabricated.
I think it is advantageous that I managed to stuff the battery, E-tec oil reservoir, fuel/water seperator filter, bilge pump, and battery cutoff switch below deck via the hatch access in the splashwell. This leaves the boat neat and clean topside, and it frees up in entirety the valuable and limited weather and waterproof area inside the center consule. This will be a maintenance hassle; but the other 29 out of 30 times I use the boat, all this "stuff" is mercifully out of the way.
The pic is taken over the bars of the steering arm, and down the splashwell hatch (9.5" x 12.5" i.d.} showing the battery forward and the oil reservoir to port.
acordts attached the following image:
[61.74Kb]
Edited by acordts on 01/23/09 - 9:15 PM |
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| Rick U |
Posted on 01/24/09 - 8:10 AM
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Posts: 2
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Joined: 08/20/08
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Great progress sauerkraut. Is the battery below the waterline? Also, is there any concern about the battery being in the same compartment as the fuel tank?
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| WhalerDan |
Posted on 01/24/09 - 8:23 AM
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I have same concerns regarding battery -- mostly the venting issue.
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| Tom W Clark |
Posted on 01/24/09 - 9:32 AM
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sauerkraut wrote:
This is about Whaler Inc. rigging of their running lights on some of their models. Why in the world would they place a stern light post right in the middle of a center console? Why, right in front of the pilot trying for his best night vision? And why would anyone design to take up such valuable and limited console flat space with a fixture, when this space is needed for compasses, electronics, or some hooks and gear?
Here's my solution which I have used on streamlining and rerigging of two other small boats. It works so well, I'm surprised the outboard manufacturers don't do this from the factory.
I agree having the running light in the console is a VERY bad place for it but I suspect the reason it is there is to keep it out of the way in the stern for fishing or other activities. There is not good solid place to mount the stern light there.
While your solution is convenient, and is often done by others in your situation, the light is not legal.
The all-around white light must be one meter higher than the bow lights. That's not going to work with a cowling mounted light fixture
Edited by Tom W Clark on 01/24/09 - 9:32 AM |
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| acordts |
Posted on 01/25/09 - 8:44 PM
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Thank you all for your comments.
Regarding the stern light being illegal because it fails to conform to a certain height...you are technically correct. Unfortunately for my boating past, the Coast Guard has tacitly informed me that the stern light passes their critical review and muster on multiple boardings over the years (or maybe the CG was more interested in hunting down contraband amongst my 30 onboard bass plugs and two dozen live eels, upon finding me prowling around in some unlikely spot in the middle of the night, or middle of some horrendous "bass weather" .
Good thought about battery below the waterline. When I get the boat in the water, I will be interested to turn off the bilgepump and pull the plug at dockside, just to see where where the static waterline settles out. I'll make the optimistic assumption that the waterline shouldn't go up more than say half the mount height of the battery wall. Anyhow, if it happens that said battery position is "below the waterline", then I just have a boat with bilge that is bilgepump dependent. I have a Fortier diesel inboard which has the potential at any time, to fail the output of the bilgepumps, fill with water, submerge the batteries, and keep on filling with water and then finally sink! At least the Whaler wouldn't sink.
I never thought about battery venting until your comment. It seems like there is a huge amount of airspace down there under and around the fueltank. Furthermore, I am using a 6" access port for a fuel guage already cut into the deck for the tunnel opening into the center consule. That should be a generous vent port for this below deck compartment.
I do not see any downside to a battery in this same bilge airspace compartment as the fueltank. The fuel should be a closed system from the bilge compartment as the tank is vented externally, as is the fill, and the engine. I do have three electrical switches down there: main battery cutoff switch, a little mounted compartment work light with toggle, and of course, the bilgepump switch which will fire depending on water level.
acordts attached the following image:
[62.94Kb]
Edited by acordts on 01/25/09 - 9:42 PM |
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| acordts |
Posted on 01/25/09 - 10:03 PM
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Joined: 11/21/08
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I had an interesting time battling with this Baystar plastic rigid memory hydraulic tubing this past weekend and tunneling it. I tried to prepare by taping the tube straight out for many days. It didn't help at all. Wondering if I should back shove a protective sleeve of something over the consule front end of the tubing before I attach the tubing to the helm. Otherwise, I'm going to let it lie as is in the underdeck space.
Any suggestions appreciated.
acordts attached the following image:
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| sraab928 |
Posted on 01/26/09 - 4:07 AM
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Very nice project.... Its has been helping me through these cold winter days following your progress.
Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8 |
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| acordts |
Posted on 03/18/09 - 11:02 PM
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It's been a cold project on this boat in an unheated garage, but i have slowly moved along...I picked a ready made rather TINY consule as I said I would, so I could maximize free flat space, especially on the walk arounds. I was forewarned, as the accompanying picture shows, that just screwing the consule down would be cosmetically a little ugly, and it is. That's the least of my problems getting this ready for an engine start and launch, but I will come back to this issue. Sure would be nice to hide the external screws and flange with some sort of teak trim, etc., but I do not want to create something that I'll be tripping upon.
I did get that nasty, inflexible Baystar hydraulic tubing set in for the steering, but my first try with the helm end cut-to-fit tubing attachment to the helm leaked and I had to redo it at a considerable mess and hassle with the system redraining and refilling. Sure did have me thinking how simple and tidy a NFB cable steering would be.
Even though I started this project off with a "bare hull", I felt the need to tamper with or completely change the Whaler under deck fuel lines and deck drain hoses to the stern because they were just too sloppily too long,and coiled and curved all over the place in the tank/bilge compartment, so I could utilize the underdeck bilge area maximally for battery, oil reservoir, fuel fileter, and cable runs.
acordts attached the following image:
[67.99Kb]
Edited by acordts on 03/18/09 - 11:07 PM |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 03/24/09 - 11:15 AM
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sauerkraut,
These photos would be much better off in a project album, personal page, or an article.
If you would like to start a project album please let us know.
Or, submit an article using the link on the left sidebar.
You can view all the project albums by different members here:
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...allery.php
The easiest way for you is to start a personal page.
Click on the "Edit Personal Page" under your name on the right sidebar.
Read the Rules at the top and the tutorial on how to do this.
http://www.whalercentral.com/faq.php?...p?cat_id=1
Threads like this will just get lost and probably never found again amongst the 30,000 or so other posts.
That's why creating a personal page, project album, or an article is much better for everyone in the future as these will be much easier to find.
Edited by Joe Kriz on 03/24/09 - 11:15 AM |
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