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loose bow railings
str8fishon
#1 Print Post
Posted on 06/09/08 - 3:10 PM
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looking for infomation on how to keep the bow railing on my 17' montauk from getting loose. some of the screws keep falling out of the fiberglass. i tried using a slightly larger screw but it feels as if there is nothing but foam underneath the glass. does anyone have any ideas on how to correct this problem? thanks

 
Phil T
#2 Print Post
Posted on 06/09/08 - 3:46 PM
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CJ -

Welcome to WC. There is a wealth of information on your model and many techniques, parts information etc.

Your question has been posted by many members and there are several techniques.

1) Over drill the hole and insert a wooden plug into the existing holes (coated in epoxy) and then redrill

2) Overdrill the hole, take a angled allen wrench and insert into your drill bit (short angled side into the foam) and run low speed to create a small cavity. Suck out the foam pieces with a shop vac. Fill hole with epoxy and re-tap.

I encourage you to review the sections on Articles, Downloads and Photo Galleries.


Edited by Phil T on 07/26/08 - 4:04 PM
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
 
Home Aside
#3 Print Post
Posted on 06/09/08 - 4:20 PM
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Depending on which bases you are talking about on your Montauk you can use through-hull brackets. If you are talking about the two front brackets on each side that mount to the inside of the gunwhale, if those are mounted with screws only into the fiberglass, there is a OEM part that can remedy that.

It will necessitate drilling all the way through the hull, the through hulls are basically a stainless steel plate with threaded studs, you put the plate on the outside with the threaded studs facing in, you screw in the matching machine screws through the stantions and into the threaded studs on the plate and tighten them down. Probably want to put some sealant in the holes before placing the through hulls. Here's a link to a photo of my old Montauk, you can see the rectangular SS Plates on the outside of the hull in line with the bowrail uprights.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v36...G_8058.jpg

Good luck

Pat

 
Jeff
#4 Print Post
Posted on 06/09/08 - 4:33 PM
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We did the same thing as Pat and I think the backing plates were $25 each from our local dealer. Also I backed all of the screws out of the bases at the bottom of the railings and filled those holes with 3m 4200 and put the screws back in. Finally with all of the railing fittings we removed all of the screws then Stainless Steal Riveted it all back together. Once finished the railing was like it was welded.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/dads%20whaler/DSC00314.jpg[/img]


Here is an article of this process on my 22 Outrage.
Article
Videos
[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Railing%20Fix/?action=view¤t=DSCN4210.flv]1[/url]
[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Railing%20Fix/?action=view¤t=DSCN4211.flv]2[/url]
[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Railing%20Fix/?action=view¤t=DSCN4212.flv]3[/url]
[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Railing%20Fix/?action=view¤t=DSCN4213.flv]4[/url]


Edited by Jeff on 06/09/08 - 4:36 PM
1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
 
caymanboy
#5 Print Post
Posted on 06/09/08 - 5:56 PM
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There is an insert called a thread insert, you over drill the hole, thread this insert in with either epoxy or 5200, then use a machine screw to fasten the rail to the insert, West Marine or Lewis Marine Supply carries them.
OP

 
str8fishon
#6 Print Post
Posted on 06/09/08 - 7:40 PM
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ok cool thanks for all the great ideas. i appreciate them.

 
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