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Drain tube problems
Riptide23WA	#21  Posted on 04/13/06 - 7:41 PM
Member Posts: 2 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/17/05	Nice work AJ. I was thinking about this very same solution a few days ago, and tonight I stumbled across your thread. I am slated to pick up an old 13 later this spring, and I will probably be replacing the drain tubes as well. I have been wanting to ask you about your Awlgrip. Did you do it yourself? That is a beautiful boat you have now. Makes me antsy to get going on mine... Thanks Pat
litespeed	#22  Posted on 04/14/06 - 8:51 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 67 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/26/05	Pat, Welcome to the forum! No, I did not do the paint myself... I wish I had the knowledge and equipment to do so. The shop that did the work is "A" Quality Fiberglass in Fort Pierce, FL. They had a hell of a time painting it. All the curves, corners and crevices made it extremely diffcult to get it perfect. But, they finally got it! The beauty of this paint system is the lack of maintenance. It is literally maintenance free. No waxing, buffing or fading gelcoat. It will look just like it does now in 20 years. If you do the drains... You will not regret it. I am amazed with the results. A little more sanding around the holes would have made beautiful caulk beads. I'm just ready to use the boat. AJ
Riptide23WA	#23  Posted on 04/14/06 - 8:45 PM
Member Posts: 2 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/17/05	AJ, is the Awlgrip really that much better than, say, a two-part Interlux that a DIY'er can apply? I have big plans for my little 13, and I'm only gonna get one shot at painting it, so I want to do it right. If you don't mind my asking, what did it cost to have it painted?
litespeed	#24  Posted on 04/15/06 - 8:04 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 67 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/26/05	Pat, PM was sent... AJ Edited by litespeed on 04/15/06 - 8:19 PM
litespeed	#25  Posted on 05/15/06 - 8:36 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 67 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/26/05	Well the PVC Drain tubes have been in for almost 2 months now with no problems. I pulled the lower tube just to see if it was really dry in there. Bone dry!!! As the day I sealed it. The 5200 really holds it in there and it was a little difficult to get out. I reinstalled the tube with 5200 only arond the openings. It is pressed in there so there is not a need for very much. The boat has seen heavy use. Getting used 4 to5 days a week with up to 3 days in the water at a time (tied to a dock). I also swamped the boat once to test its buoyancy. 2 people in it, all the gear and a full tank of gas there was only a couple inches of water in the boat. I dont see there being any problem with these tubes. If they ever need to be replaced...... It only takes a few minutes to do it. Regards, AJ
Tim Gibbs	#26  Posted on 06/03/06 - 4:49 PM
Member Posts: 9 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/10/05	What if you routed out some of the foam prior to installing the PVC and filled with WEST Epoxy with High Density filler. If any water did get by, it would cantact the epoxy and not the foam. I added a drain path in the port channel to the bait well under the deck of my 22 Revenge by drilling and routing out the foam. Mixing epoxy with filler, trowling it in the opening, then inflating a baloon through the hole to compress the epoxy mixture and keep it from sagging. Perhaps a similar process on the drain tubes then 5200 the PVC in.
litespeed	#27  Posted on 06/12/06 - 4:02 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 67 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/26/05	Tim, That is a good idea. I thought of that when I was working on the hull. This boat has already been wet inside once. I'm sure it will probably happen again. It is inevetable in this design. These large holes are the reason the boat dried out so well. Set up like this it is pretty easy to air it out again (if I need to). AJ
drandlett	#28  Posted on 07/10/06 - 3:33 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 146 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/01/06	AJ, I am now finding it time to replace my drain tubes on my 1968 whaler, and want to use your method. I have asked you many questions in previous months but am just now able to get working on my boat. I understand the process except the first step. How do you get the existing brass tube out of the hull? Thank you, Dana
litespeed	#29  Posted on 07/14/06 - 8:44 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 67 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/26/05	drandlett wrote: AJ, I am now finding it time to replace my drain tubes on my 1968 whaler, and want to use your method. I have asked you many questions in previous months but am just now able to get working on my boat. I understand the process except the first step. How do you get the existing brass tube out of the hull? Thank you, Dana To collapse the drain tube.... Carefully and lightly tap the inside flange with a small hammer and screwdriver. Tap it so it begins to fold like a taco. You may have to tap from several angles to collapse it enough so it will fit through the hole. Once the tube is partially collapsed. Lightly tap the edge of the tube with a wooden dowel or the same screwdriver towards the rear of the boat. You want to drive the tube from the inside of the boat out the rear. I found the screwdriver was splitting the brass tube. So I used a small dowel to get it moving. Once the tube comes out the rear about an inch or so you can grab the tube with a pair of pliers or Vice Grips and pull the rest of the way out. Pretty easy. Take your time. Just be careful not to damage the gelcoat or paint. If the boat has been painted or has bottom paint you will want to cut around the tubes with a razor knife so they move easier and do not peel the paint off when they start moving. AJ
Chum	#30  Posted on 06/02/15 - 7:39 AM
Member Posts: 22 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/02/13	An old thread with a good solution, does anyone know how to get the poster to update us on the results now years later?
mtown	#31  Posted on 06/02/15 - 2:15 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 609 Comments: 5 Joined: 07/06/08	Hopefully you just did. The only problem I could possibly see with using pvc is that if water could lay in that tube it would fracture if it froze. I would guess that the brass would do the same. Whaler used the products available at the time. Plastic pipe was somewhat untested for something like this.. Plus sealants have advanced way beyond what was available 30 years ago, much less 50 years ago.
Chum	#32  Posted on 06/03/15 - 6:39 PM
Member Posts: 22 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/02/13	I'm hoping he can post how it has worked now years later. Meanwhile to keep the thread interesting, here's some more information I found in my research, ie: it can be done with PVC pipe, and sealed with 5200 or with epoxy: Gluing Plastic With G/flex Epoxy http://www.westsystem.com/ss/gluing-p...lex-epoxy/ http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topi...C_ID=45287 Edited by Chum on 06/03/15 - 6:43 PM
Chum	#33  Posted on 06/03/15 - 6:50 PM
Member Posts: 22 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/02/13	mtown wrote: The only problem I could possibly see with using pvc is that if water could lay in that tube it would fracture if it froze. I would guess that the brass would do the same. Whaler used the products available at the time. Plastic pipe was somewhat untested for something like this.. Plus sealants have advanced way beyond what was available 30 years ago, much less 50 years ago. There's now also pultruded fiberglass tubing, which could be used and is not that much money. It could be sealed with any thickened epoxy. $12 for a 8' tube of 1.25" OD, 1/8" wall, which should be a perfect 1" ID fit. http://www.mgs4u.com/fiberglass-tube-...be-rod.htm Edited by Chum on 06/03/15 - 6:52 PM
mtown	#34  Posted on 06/04/15 - 5:38 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 609 Comments: 5 Joined: 07/06/08	That fiberglass tubing is what was used by Blackfin for exhaust pipes. I had a 1978 with gas inboard and that was what was installed from the factory. It ran out either side of the transom and one side had a very slight drip in an inaccessible spot. I sleeved schedule 40 PVC pipe inside the fiberglass, used high heat silicone at the small gap where the two ended at the transom and ran that boat for 12 more years with no leaks at all.