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Recommend Deck Paint/Techniques
BenjaminMA	#1  Posted on 11/12/23 - 4:22 PM
Member Posts: 3 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/19/23	I have a 1974 13' Whaler I am restoring with my son. Originally we were going to leave the deck paint because it is not in bad shape but after patching some holes it does need to be paint. There are some places where the rubberized/non skid is gone. Does anyone have recommendations for paint/coatings to replace it with? I don't want a gritty deck paint. looking for the same sort of rubberized non skid.
mtown	#2  Posted on 11/18/23 - 11:51 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 609 Comments: 5 Joined: 07/06/08	I can't think of any rubberized deck paint much less used fo non skid. I would use interlux 2000 barrier coat and if you care about looks, spray Interlux Perfection over that. The more coats of paint, the less non skid you have. I sprayed what I just described, and it is fine.
Vances Revenge	#3  Posted on 11/25/23 - 6:29 AM
Member Posts: 91 Comments: 2 Joined: 03/15/14	If you are going to keep the boat and going iwth paint. Epoxy paint is the way to go. I used Awlgrip and it is in credibly durable. There are a lot of videoo's online....You can either roll and tip it or spray it. It is expensive but will last where others wont. It is also important to decide if you are going to roll and tip it or spray it before you start....The different processes require different mixtures and changing the process adds to the cost. I ended up spraying mine with a cheap harbor freight airgun and it came out nice.
Phil T	#4  Posted on 11/25/23 - 3:19 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6994 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	if you have rubberized anything, it will need to come off. Same goes with the non-skid. A good interior paint job will need 20-40 hours, maybe more of prep. 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
WatereesWatson	#5  Posted on 12/05/23 - 6:26 AM
Member Posts: 9 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/19/23	Sort of in this vein, how do you avoid sanding down the non-skid deck surface that is on the bow casting platform area and the bow itself along the sides. Its the cross-hatched diamond pattern in the fiberglass and to remove the old paint, i'm afraid I'll lose this texturing.
Phil T	#6  Posted on 12/05/23 - 4:03 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6994 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	There is no way to keep the non-skid. It will need to come off. Most owners add grit to the surface in the locations of the old non skid. 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
mtown	#7  Posted on 12/08/23 - 6:27 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 609 Comments: 5 Joined: 07/06/08	WatereesWatson wrote: Sort of in this vein, how do you avoid sanding down the non-skid deck surface that is on the bow casting platform area and the bow itself along the sides. Its the cross-hatched diamond pattern in the fiberglass and to remove the old paint, i'm afraid I'll lose this texturing. I would be very hesitant to grind away the non skid. Is the existing paint peeling? I would try a pressure washer or wire brush to get any loose off. Then a coat of epoxy primer and then an epoxy finish paint. You will still have some non skid and it is way better than adding grit.
WatereesWatson	#8  Posted on 12/11/23 - 1:15 PM
Member Posts: 9 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/19/23	mtown wrote: WatereesWatson wrote: Sort of in this vein, how do you avoid sanding down the non-skid deck surface that is on the bow casting platform area and the bow itself along the sides. Its the cross-hatched diamond pattern in the fiberglass and to remove the old paint, i'm afraid I'll lose this texturing. I would be very hesitant to grind away the non skid. Is the existing paint peeling? I would try a pressure washer or wire brush to get any loose off. Then a coat of epoxy primer and then an epoxy finish paint. You will still have some non skid and it is way better than adding grit. Its peeling on the gunwales and in the rear splash well, but not on the floor. I also have some rust spots from previously mounted hardware (i think the original pedestal seat in front) and a trolling motor up front as well that are in the Non-skid. I was hoping someone had tried a wire brush or something similar just to rough the finish and then prime over it lightly. I know it will fill in and lose some of its "sharpness" as it gets more paint, but I really dont want to lose it and add grit to the paint.
butchdavis	#9  Posted on 12/12/23 - 7:17 AM
Member Posts: 829 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/22/11	I have never removed paint from BW non-skid. But, if I were to take on such a project I would try to remove the paint chemically to save the excellent existing non-skid. Mechanical paint removal from gelcoat is, over rated.
mtown	#10  Posted on 12/13/23 - 5:27 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 609 Comments: 5 Joined: 07/06/08	I would use wire brush and try to find a chemical that will loosen the "rubber" Acetone or some other strong solvent should work. Grinding away the non-skid would be my last option.