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Battery switches access 2017 Conquest pilothouse
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| corners |
Posted on 06/28/23 - 1:34 PM
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Joined: 06/27/20
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Hi Guys My professional mechanic is dumbfounded how to get good access behind batteries panel. One swicth spins so trying to install both new. Does he need to remove BBQ grill behind to gain access or remove seat above? He has already spent 5 hours !!!! He's also not sure how to remove BBQ. Says it's a horrendous design fault >>> Desparate to fix ... thanks
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| Billings11 |
Posted on 10/23/23 - 10:02 AM
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I just ran into the same problem! It seems like there should be an access panel under the port seat or something but there isn’t! How did you solve this!? Did you end up taking the entire grill out?
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| Billings11 |
Posted on 10/23/23 - 10:04 AM
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I don’t know how to post photos on here but it sure seems like it is impossible to replace any switches (I had my Port 6011 free spinning just like you described as well). I am considering cutting my own access panel above the electrical panel under the seat cushion.
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| Seabreeze |
Posted on 01/09/24 - 4:11 PM
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Hello, did you find a resolution to this?
I have the same challenge as I need to get behind the DC Breaker Panel to disconnect the starboard crank/house battery feed to the switched and un-switched loads and reconnect them to my newly installed Lithium house battery bank supply.
The front cover plate isn't coming off so I think removing the grill and drawers will be the only way in.
Regards Seabreeze.
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| Seabreeze |
Posted on 01/10/24 - 3:03 PM
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Update. I managed to get into the rear of the DC breaker panel.
I initially thought i could get in via the front panel. I could tell the large cables on the battery switch were preventing the panel coming out so thought I would undo the screws holding the battery switches in place. Would have been effective if the nuts on the back of the battery switches were captive but they aren't as I learned the hard way. Abandoned this approach.
Next I used a borescope and confirmed there is an access hatch at the rear of the slide out grill.
I removed all the drawers, unscrewed and lifted up the grill, photographed the AC wiring on the relay and then disconnected and removed the grill from top drawer.
After this it was a matter of removing the slide out drawer which required unbolting the 2 x gas struts, unbolting the front stop spigot and then undoing the 3 x screws that hold the drawer to the runners each side. The LHS rear screw is hidden behind another small panel.
Removed the slide out drawer and the DC breaker panel access hatch and I have access to the wiring I need.
To change out a battery switch you would need a second person to undo the 4 x screws on the battery switch from the front panel while the second person catches the nuts via the rear access hatch. Obviously disconnect your batteries before using tools inside this space.
As luck would have it I have identified that the AC cable that supplies the grill has been getting pinched and damaged when the grill is closed so I will fix this before it becomes a bigger problem.
I hope this helps someone.
Clive |
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| Phil T |
Posted on 01/11/24 - 9:23 AM
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Clive =
Well done mate.
One thing I have learned is the midsize and larger boats are hard to work on because they did not design everything to be easily accessible. They only thought about manufacturing.
Keep us updated.
Cheers.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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