1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

Anchor hatch wood repair
bsciance	#1  Posted on 01/11/23 - 4:38 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 15 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/15/20	This is the original wooden anchor hatch that came on our 1987 montauk 17. I varnished it a few years ago and got it looking nice. I guess the wood around where one of the hinges screws into it has deteriorated over the years causing it to rip out. I tried fixing it by mixing together epoxy resin with a little bit of filler, but not long after that repair the screws ripped out again and the wood broke more. See pictures on my personal page. Any thoughts on how to do a more thorough repair? Adding wood grain to filler? sanding down the varnish to expose actual wood before fixing, etc?
bsciance	#2  Posted on 01/11/23 - 7:23 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 15 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/15/20	I'm having trouble uploading the photos.
Phil T	#3  Posted on 01/11/23 - 7:45 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6994 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Screws will repeatedly strip. Drill out the hole and fill with epoxy. When cured, tap for a sex-bolt. This is a machine screw that goes into a mating fastner that is flush with the back surface. https://www.boltdepot.com/Search.aspx...e=Phillips or https://www.mcmaster.com/sex-bolts/ma...e~rounded/ Edited by Phil T on 01/11/23 - 7:48 AM 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
bsciance	#4  Posted on 01/11/23 - 9:01 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 15 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/15/20	Hopefully this photo posts. You can see where I filled with epoxy previously. The second time the screws pulled up it brought some of the cured epoxy and more wood out with it, and created a new crack that extends out from either side a couple inches just above where the top screw is fastened. bsciance attached the following image: [54.2Kb] Edited by bsciance on 01/11/23 - 9:01 AM
bsciance	#5  Posted on 01/11/23 - 9:02 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 15 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/15/20	Here's another angle. bsciance attached the following image: [54.33Kb] Edited by bsciance on 01/11/23 - 9:06 AM
Phil T	#6  Posted on 01/11/23 - 9:07 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6994 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	If the underside will not hold, adding a backing plate or large washer for the bolt flange will provide added strength. 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
bsciance	#7  Posted on 01/12/23 - 5:04 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 15 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/15/20	fyi: the only photo format that worked for me was a .jpeg. The other files noted below didn't work even though they were < 200kb.
butchdavis	#8  Posted on 01/13/23 - 7:26 AM
Member Posts: 828 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/22/11	You have a lot of time invested in the repair. Perhaps it's time to consider replacing the hatch with a newly fabricated one. Butch
Finnegan	#9  Posted on 01/19/23 - 11:10 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	You first have to repair the teak by removing all of the damaged, stripped out and checked wood. Do this by installing a series of teak bungs, maybe 1/2" or even 3/4" diameter, and spaced so they overlap into each other. Work from both sides, drilling out about 1/2 the thickness. It is a two step process, spacing the first set apart from each other, then going back and drilling the in-between space. This method will also correct any checks in the teak. Install the pegs with grain perpendicular to the main wood grain. You will end up with a "string of overlapping pegs" completely filling and eliminating the holes and checks, while still looking like the original wood.. Use Titebond's best grade of glue. It looks remarkably good when sanded flush and re-varnished. I have used this method on my Outrage 25 teak, both the factory bow pulpit and teak gunwales. Then, re-drill for the strap hinge screws, and as Phil says, use through bolts instead of screws. This will be a permanent fix. Always repair stripped out screws in teak by drilling in 3/8" or 1/2" teak pegs. Then re-drill the holes, and where possible, use through bolts. All these fillers, etc, don't hold, as you have found out.
bsciance	#10  Posted on 04/20/23 - 2:05 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 15 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/15/20	I finished up the repair and wanted to show the results. I filled cracked wood with epoxy resin + filler and let cure. Then sanded and varnished repeatedly. Purchased 4 sex bolts from mcmaster carr that had a low-profile binding post. Drilled out holes for the binding posts and then installed. I threw a light coat of 3M 4000 on the machine screws to help secure. Don't want these to come loose. I'm happy with how it turned out. No issues with the repair so far, seems solid. Time will tell. bsciance attached the following image: [21.32Kb]
bsciance	#11  Posted on 04/20/23 - 2:06 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 15 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/15/20	Here's another bsciance attached the following image: [33.1Kb] Edited by bsciance on 04/20/23 - 2:09 PM