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Hey all,
Several more questions, looking for those with a good knowledge of teak.
As mentioned in a different post, I have decided that my Gunwale caps are definitely not teak. I can also tell by their construction and how they are attached to the boat that they are definitely not original. Now, the best prices I could find for just the amount of teak I need is currently somewhere around 800 or more dollars. When I contacted several people recommended to me on here to manufacture the caps I was quoted at 2000 plus. I'm 21 years old, certainly not going to do that. As such, I decided to try my luck and go with the specialty marine option and then manufacture the additional 12 or so inches I will need to complete the lengths (the ones on SM are 108 inches, I need around 120 inches) out of teak stock I already have at home. I will use Marko888's method but I think it will be substantially easier as the lengths will be much shorter.
The issue I have now is that I am becoming increasingly unsure how much of what is on the boat is original or teak as it is supposed to be. I made a photo album (https://app.photobucket.com/u/outrageous78/a/1aeca7c9-83df-4d8d-9516-fbcb788c6a70) showing some of the console pieces in various states of old varnish and that varnish being stripped. Whoever varnished these pieces did an awful job. So far I fully stripped, sanded, and oiled the fire extinguisher box frame. I would like any input on whether or not y'all think these are teak. Some of the pieces have the proper grain, smell, and hard feeling. Others (like the gunwales, which I am sure are not teak), do not strike me as teak. Also, I can be extremely certain regarding the gunnel cap as the board that is farthest inboard (runs the length of the two horizontal boards) does not have a dado. Rather, It is two separate pieces have have been affixed to the top and bottom of the flat boards running fore and aft.
The attached photo album also shows the exposed gunwales themselves after the caps are removed. I am curious about those circular indentations along the gunwale. Perhaps they were used for affixing the original caps? I saw the same indentations in Troy Thompson's build.
I have also had to cut a hole in the hull to allow water to drain, will begin that lengthy repair soon as well as two softspots i have found on deck. I have removed all the marinium pieces and have begun polishing them but I am struggling to find replacements for the bow rail bases. I got quoted at almost 1000$ to re-plate. I have finished all the electronics and everything in that department is in good state.
Still looking for help in identifying the teak pieces above. Also, if anybody has a good source for outboard manuals please let me know as I have been unsuccessful in finding one for my 2004 Evinrude OceanPro 150. Also, if anyone is interested I called Mark at Integrity Marine as I could not find the Scarlett rubrail insert anywhere. Thankfully, he had it in stock just had not put it up on the website. It should be up there now if anyone needs it.
Was teak the OEM wood species on your V-20? I don't know how much mahogany costs compared to teak but it is a nice wood trim material for any boat and was widely used by Boston Whaler in years past. It was the OEM wood used for the console, thwarts, etc on our 1981 Sport 13. Ours, forty years later, remains in good condition.
Butch, Teak was the OEM wood on the outrages and montauks for the console fittings and gunnel caps. I would use a wood like mahogany but I am trying to get everything back to the original. Mahogany is a great wood though.
Why not strip the varnish and reapply and reinstall? They are old growth and have a wonderful patina. Nothing you get now will come close.
also had to cut a hole in the hull to allow water to drain,
I would not cut any holes in the boat till you have a full understanding of whaler hull construction.
Marinum is not shiny like chrome. Just buff it out with jeweler's rouge.
The red insert is not available. At some point a special order was done by owners. Twin Cities Marine had some for a while.
Wipe what you have with acetone and it may clean up.
I would focus on the hull first. Drain tubes, gel coat repairs. Engine. Trailer. The wood would be LAST.
Hey Phil,
The reason I am not keeping the old caps is that they are certainly NOT teak. I don't want any other wood on my boat (unless its perhaps Mahogany) so that is why I decided to go this route. I hear you on SM, many other people share that opinion but I figured 500$ for that amount of teak it cant hurt to at least try.
As far as the hull goes, I have worked on old whalers before with family members and am doing the work with a local boat yard that I know well. Its the only way to really fix the issues that I have in that area.
Thankfully I was able to source the red rub rail. Already purchased it and will be installing it after I finish filling all the old holes that were neglected.
Engine and trailer are both in great state, noted on the hull. It is cold and rainy where I live now so I am using this time to work on the wood. Was just looking for somebody to confirm that my pieces are indeed teak from the pictures I posted. Thanks for your advice.
