Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.
1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011 2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260 3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22 4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.
Just spoke with the guy I’m buying an 1988 15' from. As an “oh by the way,” he mentioned that the starboard rear seem had a slight crack at in it when he purchased it. Says he epoxied it. Should I walk away? I realize I’m buying a 30+ year older boat but also don’t want to regret it and / or have to rebuild the transom. Other hitting the transom with a rubber mallet and looking at any possible discharge out of drain tube, is there anything else to inspect?
He is referring to the common problem of "green line separation".
Dick Fisher wanted to advertise how thick the fiberglass of the hull was so they did not gelcoat the outer top edge of the transom on the classic 13, 15 and 17's up until the 1990's.
If it does start to split open, not every boat has it, but MANY do, the recommended repair is to insert epoxy and clamp. Seal the entire edge. I repaired a a 15 Sport CC last year for the same issue.
Check the bottom of the keel (get on your back) and get under the boat. Inspect the entire length.
Drain tubes
Rust marks from fittings.
Right now I would be more concerned with the engine. Given there are no new engines available till possibly Spring 2022 (if you order today) and all the shops are swamped, the engine will need to be turn-key if you want to use it this season or next spring.
Thanks. Yeah, the motor supposedly runs perfect but it’s the original motor so it’s not lasting long term. Once the boat is secured, the next step is getting my name on a waitlist(s) for an F70 Yamaha. This is a CC version as well. What did you do to your’s?
