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adding rings on transom
awoldman
#1 Print Post
Posted on 07/15/21 - 5:37 AM
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Hello all,
I have a new to me 1992 23' walkaround , twin Evinrude 200 ocean pros on the back.

My dockage is on Lake Erie right near Cleveland Ohio.
We have crazy water here and have to use springs at the docks.

I have easy access to the front cleat to add a backing plate. No problem there.
The rear cleats are screwed into the fiberglass on the gunnel and it doesn't look like there is any room underneath to back
These will rip right out

I am looking to add D rings or bow rings or even an I bolt to the transom.
I can get to the SB side underneath the livewell and the port through battery compartment.
Trying to figure out the best hardware for this. Looks like the transom walls are at least 4" thick

Thanks!


Edited by awoldman on 07/15/21 - 5:49 AM
 
butchdavis
#2 Print Post
Posted on 07/15/21 - 7:37 AM
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Springs? Are you referring to "spring lines"?


Butch
 
awoldman
#3 Print Post
Posted on 07/15/21 - 7:45 AM
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Springs and pulleys on lines from 4 corners of dockage. Lets the boat ride the swells

Added a pic of the dock I am at


awoldman attached the following image:


[110.97Kb]
Edited by awoldman on 07/15/21 - 7:50 AM
 
butchdavis
#4 Print Post
Posted on 07/16/21 - 7:40 AM
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The bow and stern eyes are robustly mounted through the hull and transom respectively. I suspect they are strong enough to withstand the forces expected if you use the springs in your mooring lines. The spring's purpose is to withstand any shocks to the mooring lines if I understand correctly.


Butch
 
awoldman
#5 Print Post
Posted on 07/16/21 - 7:47 AM
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I agree, this boat does not have anything on the stern currently. I have to set it up for my use.
The rear cleats on the gunnels are just down into the glass where it rolls and meets up with the lower section.
There is no easy way to add backing to them.
This might work for tie offs and calm water but not unattended. Lake Erie gets nuts from time to time.

Solution, I am picking up 2 1/2x6 stainless eye bolts and appropriate fender washers to add to back of the boat.
Guess it's not truly your boat till you drill holes in it!

 
Phil T
#6 Print Post
Posted on 07/16/21 - 8:21 AM
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If it is as nasty as you say I would go with more of a backing plate than a washer. Larger area

An eye bolt has a tendency to work the hole oblong since all the forces are concentrated on the single shaft.

I would consider a ring on a square or rectangular base that is through bolted (4) with an inside backing plate as large as the outside.





1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
 
awoldman
#7 Print Post
Posted on 07/16/21 - 9:32 AM
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I was planning on stainless washer on the outside for the eye bolt to seat on
4"x4" 1/4" backing plate inside

This would be a hard surface to drill 4 precise holes 4 inches through all the sections.
Easy access, just no flush flat surface to guide off of.

 
butchdavis
#8 Print Post
Posted on 07/17/21 - 7:38 AM
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Are there no stern eyes on a 23 Walkaround? Where are the trailer tiedown straps located?


Butch
 
awoldman
#9 Print Post
Posted on 07/17/21 - 7:39 AM
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Surprisingly this boat does not have them.
It even has the original whaler trailer!

This boat has an outboard platform on the back thinking they just strapped over it.


Edited by awoldman on 07/17/21 - 7:41 AM
 
awoldman
#10 Print Post
Posted on 07/17/21 - 7:45 AM
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Pic of boat


awoldman attached the following image:


[131.87Kb]
 
butchdavis
#11 Print Post
Posted on 07/17/21 - 12:21 PM
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OK, got it. Thank you.


Butch
 
gypsmjim
#12 Print Post
Posted on 07/17/21 - 5:09 PM
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I can't believe the stern cleats are not strong enough.

Regardless, instead of mounting a "stern eye", per se', mount a bow eye designed with 2 posts (bolts) instead of a single bolt. Of course, a backer plate is still necessary.

 
awoldman
#13 Print Post
Posted on 07/18/21 - 4:31 AM
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The stern cleats are not backed. Bolts are just down into the glass
opening in the roll is about 1/4 inch just enough to see whats going on in there..

 
wrangler
#14 Print Post
Posted on 07/20/21 - 2:45 AM
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West Marine (and other stores) have Dock Line Snubbers. They are thick rubber and the mooring line wraps around them to stretch and provide give like a spring to the line. The springs you talk about are metal and would rust.
These rubber snubbers would Not rust and do the job you talked about.

I have also seen lines that are attached to the boat and run through a pulley at the dock with a weight attached after the pulley that allows the line to move back and forth.


Edited by wrangler on 07/20/21 - 2:49 AM
 
butchdavis
#15 Print Post
Posted on 07/20/21 - 6:53 AM
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Before using rubber Snubbers I would want to know the specifications. My inclination would be to go with a locally tried and proven solution, the steel springs. Regardless, the OP still needs a mounting solution for his mooring lines. Although steel (non-stainless) will require periodic replacement due to rust it should be infrequent in a fresh water environment.


Butch
 
awoldman
#16 Print Post
Posted on 07/20/21 - 10:55 AM
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Steel springs and pulleys are mandatory where we are on fixed docks. Club enforced.
Only way to get around them is to add a lift. Couple guys have submersion float lifts.

 
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