1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

Stringer Help
vinilr	#1  Posted on 07/14/21 - 10:54 AM
Member Posts: 4 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/17/20	Hi Everyone, I have a 1981 Montauk with foam gutted out. I have two questions: 1) Is there a particular location on the hull bottom that I should avoid installing a stringer (thinking two side stringers before filling in the foam) 2) Read a comment here that you should not put in bulkheads just stringers. Thanks in advance. Edited by vinilr on 07/14/21 - 11:55 AM
acassidy	#2  Posted on 07/14/21 - 5:39 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 268 Comments: 1 Joined: 11/21/05	Holy smokes. two words. Metan Marine. Look them up. This is what they do.
butchdavis	#3  Posted on 07/15/21 - 7:34 AM
Member Posts: 828 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/22/11	Please post a photograph of the hull interior so we can see exactly what has been done. It would help if we knew how all the foam was gutted. Butch
vinilr	#4  Posted on 07/20/21 - 4:21 PM
Member Posts: 4 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/17/20	Nothing has been done yet...my buddy and I bought a Montauk to repair as a summer project but had not decided on how to approach it so thought I ask around but I think I have figured it out. Two days ago, I dug around the foam at the damaged area and realised that the damage occurred right at the shear tie, and ripped the tie right off. Interestingly and shockingly the shear ties are constructed of very thin layers of glass (maybe two) and filled with foam. If BW knew that the foam could fail under shear stress.(patent filing confirms that) then not sure the reason for such a weak construction. The engineer in me tells me that replacing the shear ties with a continuous member will make the hull stronger so that's where the stringers would be and bulkheads are probably not needed (the rigidity of the new foam 4# or 6# could take care of that Thanks for the Metan heads-up, checked out their videos, they pretty much use the same approach. Now doing it is a different story all together.
Weatherly	#5  Posted on 07/20/21 - 6:50 PM
Member Posts: 752 Comments: 4 Joined: 12/31/06	My recommendation to you is to repair the damage in the area where the damage happened and seal it up good. You will be wasting your time and effort trying to install stringers into a unibond foam core constructed hull. There is more than one shear tie in a 17 hull; shear ties do not fail from shear stress. Your project boat was damaged. Fix the damage. Forget about the idea of making a better boat of the Montauk 17. It is already a perfectly manufactured vessel.
vinilr	#6  Posted on 07/21/21 - 5:12 PM
Member Posts: 4 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/17/20	Thank you all sirs. @ Weatherly- I read your other posts/opinions - you know your stuff so I will go with your recommendation. One last question: should I use 4# or 6# pour foam to seal it up or just 2# and call it a day.
Weatherly	#7  Posted on 07/21/21 - 5:48 PM
Member Posts: 752 Comments: 4 Joined: 12/31/06	The 2 lb foam will do the job. But here is the deal: You need to seal up the deck piece first with the repair done before injecting the foam. You can wrap a rubber band around the replaced shear brace, just like they did at the factory. Inject the foam through a small hole in the non-skid deck. Let it cure. Place a weight over the repair area to hold everything in place. You should be good to go for another 41 years.
vinilr	#8  Posted on 07/22/21 - 11:48 AM
Member Posts: 4 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/17/20	Thank you... very much appreciate your time and advice.