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Baystar on 2002 Montauk 17 with 2013 Yamaha F90
dipilato	#1  Posted on 09/29/20 - 8:29 PM
Member Posts: 2 Comments: 0 Joined: 04/17/20	Hi there, considering replacing my telflex cable steering with the Baystar HK400A-3 kit. Been digging around for pictures and info but coming up short on a few things. I plan to cut off the old cable to remove instead of having to pull engine. My main concern is that it sounds like I may actually need to cut part of the engine clamp brackets off in order for the engine to fully tilt up (looking at the Baystar instructions). Does anyone know if that is the case, and if so ANY pics or vids of their setup so I have something to go with would be much appreciated as well as any other tips or thoughts. Many Thanks! dipilato attached the following image: [83.51Kb] Edited by dipilato on 09/29/20 - 8:36 PM
Phil T	#2  Posted on 09/30/20 - 6:05 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6994 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	I have never, in my 15 years here, ever read of an owner having to cut off part of the engine bracket to install a hydraulic steering kit. Note the Baystar unit you selected is 5:0 turns lock-to-lock. That is not going to be practical as most helms are 3 or 4 turns. I would hate a 5 T2T system when in close quarter manuvering like docking. Have you considered the less complex and expensive Teleflex NFB helm and cable? Edited by Phil T on 09/30/20 - 6:06 AM 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
biggiefl	#3  Posted on 09/30/20 - 8:12 AM
Member Posts: 890 Comments: 4 Joined: 05/08/06	5 Turns LTL? I would burn that boat if I had to dock it. 24 Whalers so far....
dipilato	#4  Posted on 10/03/20 - 7:39 PM
Member Posts: 2 Comments: 0 Joined: 04/17/20	Thanks guys, see from the instructions below where it says: "Engine clamp brackets must be cut or ground..." Doesnt seem to be a problem on Merc's but looks like it may be for Yamaha. Yea ditching the telflex cable as wanted to upgrade to hydraulic. Use boat daily in hawaii and the cables just dont last long enough and are a giant pita to replace :) dipilato attached the following image: [115.39Kb]
MG56	#5  Posted on 10/04/20 - 4:54 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 355 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/11/13	Some engines are mounted with screw clamps at the top think thumb screw. I think this is what they mean by "clamp brackets". That is not the case for you, you should be fine.
Finnegan	#6  Posted on 10/04/20 - 1:49 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	I have Baystar on my Montauk rigged with a Merc 115, and there are, indeed, some close tolerances on tilt up. So i would take Baystar at their word, and you may have to cut off those tabs on the engine brackets. Looking at your photos, and their instructions, it does appear that you have the situation they describe. I would install the Baystar and see what you get on tilt-up. See if there is any interference for the amount of tilt you need. If so, de-rig the Baystar, and cut off those "tabs". and re-install. If no interference, you are fine. You have nothing to lose by first trying it as is.
Mattynp	#7  Posted on 10/14/20 - 4:46 PM
Member Posts: 21 Comments: 0 Joined: 04/30/20	I have a 1993 Montauk 17 and replaced the steering cable this spring with a Teleflex NFB system. At first I was hesitant to do the work myself but I watched a lot of YouTube videos (there are plenty instructional ones out there) and took on the task. I found it was actually a pretty easy job. And even better, pretty cheap! No special tools needed. The NFB system works great and it also took out all the play in the steering wheel. I am no mechanic but the job is pretty straight forward and easy to do by myself. At the time I had a 1995 Evinrude 90 but I just repowered with a new Yamaha F90LB and the new steering cable fits and works great with the new motor. One recommendation I would make if you choose to do the project yourself is to duct tape the part of the cable which is not covered by the sheath before you run it through the bilge. Especially if you have dirt or muck in there. You don't want that dirt in the cable before you run in through the steering wheel connection. That piece of advice would've saved me a lot of time with a wire brush and rags. Edited by Joe Kriz on 10/14/20 - 5:05 PM
acassidy	#8  Posted on 10/14/20 - 5:29 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 268 Comments: 1 Joined: 11/21/05	Never in my life have I heard you need to cut the tab on the mounting bracket. but is should not be hard to do. Use a Dremel. I would be more worried about it hitting the transom on full tilt too if the motor is too low. I would mount first and see and if it needs to be cut then remove the unit and grind away. Cutting the steering cable sounds like a good plan. I would use a 4" grinder with cutoff wheel. Go slow or it may break the blade. You will notice a difference with the ratio. Maybe get a smaller wheel. Archie