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1976 Newport 17 bow mount trolling motor
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| danobri |
Posted on 07/01/20 - 1:18 PM
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I have a 1976 Newport, and just bought a Minn Kota Terrova for it. After reading the installation manual, I am not sure how to install it, or if it's even possible. The boat is already a bit stripped down - I removed the bow rail and some of the other hardware previously in order to use it as chase boat for open water duck hunting in Lake Michigan. So there are at least no obstructions on the bow.
Here are the challenges I am facing:
1) It looks like only 1 or 2 of the 4 bolts that would fasten the quick release plate to the bow would come through in a location that is accessible for attaching a lock nut. The other bolts would be going into the far front of the bow, which is not accessible, and is perhaps just fiberglass core..?
2) The bow has a slight arc to it. There is no perfectly flat surface like on some of the later whaler models. Assuming I can sort out the fasteners, I'm wondering if simply using rubber washers to offset the arc of the bow is going to be sufficient. I've attached a photo for context.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Really hoping there is a way to install this trolling motor I just purchased...
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| biggiefl |
Posted on 07/02/20 - 6:52 AM
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Is this a smirked 1976?
I am not a trolling motor guy but I assume using lag bolts into the hull would be sufficient for an electric engine.
24 Whalers so far.... |
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| danobri |
Posted on 07/02/20 - 7:04 AM
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I am not sure - what is the difference between smirked and smirkless?
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| danobri |
Posted on 07/02/20 - 7:10 AM
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So are you saying you can use lag bolts in fiberglass core?
Attached is a photo I thought I attached in my original post (looks like the image was too large). It shows the mount plate in position, and I believe it also shows that this is a smirked whaler. Is that correct?
danobri attached the following image:
[165.48Kb]
Edited by danobri on 07/02/20 - 7:23 AM |
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| biggiefl |
Posted on 07/02/20 - 8:54 AM
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Yes and yes.
Where the front of the plate meets the rubrail you can use lags. There should be enough to bite, it is not just foam up there. You can also use an epoxy in the hole if bite is not good enough.
24 Whalers so far.... |
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| danobri |
Posted on 07/02/20 - 10:54 AM
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Thanks! Any idea if there would be wood up in the front of the bow? Or is it definitely just fiberglass?
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| biggiefl |
Posted on 07/02/20 - 11:22 AM
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There is wood, glass, thick resin, etc. Depends on where the holes are going into. The only place that is just foam is from the base(where hatch is) to the lip next to where the norman pin would be. Just on the face, not the sides. I know this because I hit a piling dead center with one and am now very familiar with what the bow of a smirked hull is composed of.
You are probably fine with just 2 of the 4 bolts but the lags will take a lot of the pressure off them. You can beef up the bottom of the cap like how it is where the bit is bolted down. I have had the cap off of one of mine to sturdy up a soft spot w/divinicell. They are pretty sturdy and plenty strong I think for a trolling motor.
After looking at the photo, you are going to have a problem if you run at night. The motor is going to block your port lens possibly.
Edited by biggiefl on 07/02/20 - 11:28 AM
24 Whalers so far.... |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 07/02/20 - 2:00 PM
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danobri wrote:
I am not sure - what is the difference between smirked and smirkless?
See our Frequently Asked Questions for many answers about What Model, What Year, etc.
https://www.whalercentral.com/infusio...d_faqs.php
Here is a description and photo of the difference between the Smirkless and the Smirk hull
https://www.whalercentral.com/article...cle_id=100
And here are some photos and specifications of the Newport models.
https://www.whalercentral.com/userpho...lbum_id=23
Many other photos in the members personal page section.
Scroll down to Newport 17.
https://www.whalercentral.com/viewpag...page_id=65
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| danobri |
Posted on 07/03/20 - 1:25 PM
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Thanks for the info! After doing some more research, I discovered a better mount that should solve a number of issues - https://www.shuttleslide.com. For any other whaler owners facing a similar challenge, I highly recommend checking out this product. It is a longer, and much narrower (only 3/5" wide) trolling motor mount that allows the motor to slide back from the bow so it doesn't stick off the front of the boat when stowed. It uses 6 mounting holes, but if you purchase the more ridged HD or UHD models, you can fasten to the bow with just the back 4 of the 6 bolts, which avoids the need to drill into the fiberglass core. I ordered the SS-7-HD - https://www.shuttleslide.com/product/...t/ss-7-hd/. I also ordered an 1/8 inch hard rubber pad at their recommendation to offset the slight arc of the bow - https://www.mcmaster.com/2178T25/m/2178T25/.
It occurred to me that the bow nav light would be blocked, and am hoping the sliding bracket will address that issue as well. If not - are you aware of any replacement bow lights with a higher profile that might work on my Newport?
Thanks again for all the help. Great website and resource for whaler owners! I will post photos once the install is completed (fingers crossed). :)
Edited by danobri on 07/03/20 - 1:56 PM |
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| MarkCz |
Posted on 12/21/20 - 12:44 PM
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Have you finshed the install of the trolling motor yet? I am also interested in that shuttleslide mount for my Montauk. I would love to hear your opinions on how well it worked for your Montauk and see some pictures of how you mounted it.
Mark
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