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Calcium Chloride vs.Wet Foam
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| max366 |
Posted on 08/24/16 - 5:48 PM
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I just bought a 1980 13 sport with a corroded drain tube - the outside 3in was gone. The foam at that point is damp- not soaked. I'm thinking of removing the entire tube and rigging up a pressure blower and blowing hot air through the hole. The air will dehumidify the foam. Not to get technical but once the edges of the tube hole dry out, the moisture further in the foam will diffuse towards the dry areas and be removed in the air stream. Even though the foam is closed cell, diffusion will move the moisture towards the drier parts. Worth a shot- the blower can run for weeks if needed
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| tahoewhaler |
Posted on 09/08/16 - 1:03 PM
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Hi,
I was reading about this on another forum where one contributor said that blowing air in could cause delamination. I was going to rig a compressor with fittings to strategic places and a couple of holes in the bottom stern to let the moisture out, but now I'm not sure it is a good idea...
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| mtown |
Posted on 09/09/16 - 5:58 AM
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tahoewhaler wrote:
Hi,
I was reading about this on another forum where one contributor said that blowing air in could cause delamination. I was going to rig a compressor with fittings to strategic places and a couple of holes in the bottom stern to let the moisture out, but now I'm not sure it is a good idea...
You may be referring to a post I made. I was using a fine tip and an air compressor and inserting the tip into old screw holes to blow random water out. I was not attempting to dry foam. I did separate the foam from the inner deck, but was able to reattach it by drilling some holes and injecting epoxy.
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| max366 |
Posted on 09/09/16 - 1:35 PM
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I'll be using a low pressure (<0.3 psi at the hole) blower but throttling it before it goes into the drain hole to get the heat of compression and warm the air stream. It's a warm mild breeze into the drain hole but it should dehumidify the transom somewhat over the many hours of running I plan to use. I'll report back when it's done, but it will be hard to tell how effective it actually was.
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| butchdavis |
Posted on 09/10/16 - 6:58 AM
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Have you considered an electric leaf blower? Lots of volume, low pressure, etc.
Still a lot of effort for little return and probably not anything that will improve your boat in any measurable way.
Butch |
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| max366 |
Posted on 09/10/16 - 8:01 AM
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I agree that this may yield minimal results but it can't hurt. I'm using a blower capable of 15 psi and will throttle it to the low pressure- that way I will get the heat of compression and a warm air flow. A lot quieter than a leaf blower as well!
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| chawk25 |
Posted on 09/10/16 - 5:14 PM
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You can also find a wet vac / shop vac with a set up where the hose can be plugged to the exhaust and used as a blower. A cheap hair dryer can be also easily converted to that purpose. I wouldn't leave any of the tools mentioned, run unattended.
Let us know how it turned out.
I haven't gotten any suggestions from anybody on putting a drain plug on my 18 Outrage. It came without one and I'm debating whether to put on? Or I'm I inviting trouble by having extra screw holes in the transom and allowing moisture in?
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| butchdavis |
Posted on 09/11/16 - 7:24 AM
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A properly installed garboard drain is often useful. I recommend brass or marelon. I believe marelon is used on current production Whalers. Consider generous or possibly copious amounts of cauking to ensure positive sealing and protection of the foam and/or plywood from any possible water intrusion. FWIW, every modern Whaler I've seen has a garboard drain.
IMO, the brass tube and rubber stopper is not the best way to go.
Butch |
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| chawk25 |
Posted on 09/11/16 - 8:40 AM
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butchdavis wrote:
A properly installed garboard drain is often useful. I recommend brass or marelon. I believe marelon is used on current production Whalers. Consider generous or possibly copious amounts of cauking to ensure positive sealing and protection of the foam and/or plywood from any possible water intrusion. FWIW, every modern Whaler I've seen has a garboard drain.
IMO, the brass tube and rubber stopper is not the best way to go.
Thanks for the input. I've already have the brass garboard drain plug with 3 mounting screws and 1/2 drain plug. I was reluctant to install until I got second opinions. I have seen couple of older Whalers with drain plugs installed. The brass tube and rubber stopper would not be an option - you can't install them because there is a compression/ flaring toll required and you need access both ends with a wrench. You can't get to the inside of the transom at least on my boat. The same tubes are used in the splash well (access on both ends). Speaking of which, I think BW company didn't think this one out when they install those brass drain tubes in the splash well using O-ring as a sealant. These O-rings disintegrate quickly and allow water into transom. Better way is to put 5200 marine sealant and compress/flare the tube.
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| gchuba |
Posted on 09/11/16 - 9:59 PM
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Chawk25.....in agreement minus the use of 5200. That is an adhesive. Using it for brass tube replacement on the older hulls would trash the gelcoat. I used a more than generous amount of BoatLife LifeSeal in case I need to get in there again.
Garris
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| Perichbrothers |
Posted on 09/12/16 - 1:50 AM
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gchuba wrote:
Chawk25.....in agreement minus the use of 5200. That is an adhesive. Using it for brass tube replacement on the older hulls would trash the gelcoat.
Garris
Why would 5200 trash the gelcoat?
If you're worried about water intrusion I'd use the strongest stuff possible!
TP
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| gchuba |
Posted on 09/12/16 - 8:19 AM
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If you had to remove the tubes again they would be glued in place not sealed in place. Saving the through hull hole was delicate enough with the O ring design. A couple of my brass tubes failed from the foam side and the interior of the tube looked good with a visual inspection. If my tubes were 5200 in place I do believe I would ruin the surrounding area removing. The gel coat on my boat only a healthy 1/8" +- thick. The flange of the tube holds it in place. I do not believe the tubes were designed to be permanent. I do LifeSeal the heck out of it with the O ring. The water side of the tube gets installed first with generous sealant. I then flange the interior with as much sealant as possible without distorting the O ring. I found the sealant kinda acted like lubricant and the O ring would wander if I was not careful.
Garris
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| jamesgt727 |
Posted on 09/12/16 - 9:24 PM
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http://i1320.photobucket.com/albums/u...fa42d9.jpg
The drains were my leaking culprit, and the first thing we addressed for restore. The holes were reamed, foam removed, and filled with the material you make transoms from, then they were drilled, and stainless thru-hulls. The stainless thru-hulls are for decoration.
Edited by jamesgt727 on 09/12/16 - 9:25 PM |
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| chawk25 |
Posted on 09/14/16 - 5:08 PM
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Perichbrothers wrote:
gchuba wrote:
Chawk25.....in agreement minus the use of 5200. That is an adhesive. Using it for brass tube replacement on the older hulls would trash the gelcoat.
Garris
Why would 5200 trash the gelcoat?
If you're worried about water intrusion I'd use the strongest stuff possible!
TP
5200 and only 5200 for under water applications!!!
It can be removed, scraped off. Acetone will soften it up.
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| chawk25 |
Posted on 09/14/16 - 5:21 PM
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jamesgt727 wrote:
http://i1320.photobucket.com/albums/u...fa42d9.jpg
The drains were my leaking culprit, and the first thing we addressed for restore. The holes were reamed, foam removed, and filled with the material you make transoms from, then they were drilled, and stainless thru-hulls. The stainless thru-hulls are for decoration.
I've also replaced my drain tubes with thru hulls and caulked with tons of 5200. One in anchor locker and one in the bilge hole where the wires come out. The nice thing about the later is that I can use that thru hull as hook up for a live well. Both of them are caped of with solid brass threaded cap. Another little trick you can try is to get rid of the awkward ground wire in the transom and hook it up to that thru hull. It grounds the fuel tank. Little tricky but it has been done. They use to make thru hulls with bonding screw but they are hard to find now. You can use ss clamp on the shaft of thru hull to clamp the ground wire. That way you have one less hole in the transom and one less wire hanging out there.
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| seano |
Posted on 09/21/16 - 5:17 AM
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For winter storage and to keep mold away, I know folks use Damp Away. I've also heard that some people use kitty litter as an alternative when storing the boat for the winter. Does this work and if so is it better than calcium chloride?
Assuming one of these methods work, could you reasonably expect to "dry" a completely stripped hull void of all hardware and drain tubes over the course of a winter if sealed in plastic and stored indoors?
One other though comes to mind in addition to all of the above is setting a dehumidifier in the boat with a hose drain coming out of the boat. Would this work?
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| butchdavis |
Posted on 09/21/16 - 7:36 AM
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Other than stripping out the decking and replacing the foam nothing will COMPLETELY dry out an old Boston Whaler hull.
Since some water will remain in the hull no matter what you do short of the huge job mentioned why bother UNLESS you have so much water in your hull that it affects safety or performance.
I'm a pretty anal kind of guy and want everything in my life to be perfect but even I know when I'm spinning my wheels.
If you have a smallish amount of water in your hull it will not hurt a thing. Relax and enjoy your boat.
Butch |
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| gchuba |
Posted on 09/21/16 - 7:55 AM
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Have any of the fellows using the 5200 ever removed the tubes after installed with that method? I base my opinion on seeing pictures of trashed transoms from motor mounting with the 5200. Quite a bit of discussion on the site on the use of adhesives vs sealants. Whalers original design was "O" ring only. I have also seen postings of using fiberglass tubes vs Whaler brass as well as closing off the holes entirely. I prefer factory original with this particular feature with the sealant as an upgrade.
Garris
Calcium Chloride is the active ingredient in many of the mold/moisture removing products. Keep it away from any metal. No longer being used as a concrete accelerator because it destroys the rebar.
Edited by gchuba on 09/21/16 - 7:59 AM |
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| butchdavis |
Posted on 09/22/16 - 6:53 AM
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New Whalers use some kind of plastic, perhaps Marelon(?), hull and locker drains. They seem to function as well as brass tubes, don't use O-rings and are very durable. From what I can tell just from looking the drains appear to be seated in/sealed with a marine grade, below the waterline caulk such as that marked by 3M and Boat Life.
I believe the new drains are certainly equal to if not superior to the old. I am no longer able to do demanding hand work so have to pay someone if our boat's drains need replacement. Being a light spender I want the simplest least costly solution so will use the new style if they will fit our Sport 13. Purists will demand brass.
Butch |
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| jamesgt727 |
Posted on 09/23/16 - 10:38 AM
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I love these discussions, but if you tried my drying method in the beginning of the this conversation your hull would have the majority or all of the water out, and it would have only cost you $60.
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