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rage steering cable
jstboat	#1  Posted on 08/12/16 - 9:32 AM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/12/16	I have to replace both the engine and steering cables on a Whaler Rage #BWCGA394D292. I think I can get the cables but there is a through-hull fitting where the cables emerge from the hull to the drive. It also looks to be pretty difficult to get access to these through-hulls, and not only that, it is unclear to me how to get the cable through the fitting. But I haven't removed it yet and perhaps it will become obvious. Any help on what the part is and how it can be replaced would be very much appreciated. BTW I'm new to the forum and apparently can't figure out how to post a picture of the fitting and the apparent catalog part.
whalerman	#2  Posted on 08/13/16 - 8:40 AM
Member Posts: 540 Comments: 5 Joined: 06/26/07	Hi, contact Mr. Bennett at Whaler (e-mail) and see if there is a bulletin / service sheet on how to remove and install new control cables for your jet unit. Be sure to include your HIN as there may have been design changes during production and your HIN will help in that respect. THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
jstboat	#3  Posted on 08/14/16 - 10:49 AM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/12/16	Thanks very much...but do you have an email address? All I can find on their website is the generic email for questions.
Joe Kriz	#4  Posted on 08/14/16 - 10:50 AM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11431 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Call Boston Whaler. You will probably talk to Chuck Bennett. If you email them, you will probably get a response from Chuck Bennett also.
jstboat	#5  Posted on 08/14/16 - 3:00 PM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/12/16	OK, thanks, guys. I emailed Whaler and will call tomorrow.
jstboat	#6  Posted on 08/15/16 - 11:50 AM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/12/16	I just talked to Chuck Bennett at Whaler and he was VERY helpful, so thanks for the tip, guys. I could have sorted that out myself by just calling the number on their site but I was working with a local shop instead...I'm not positive that the local guy won't eventually come up with a fix, but in the meantime I got a lot of questions answered.
jstboat	#7  Posted on 08/18/16 - 7:38 AM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/12/16	Still chasing this one. Turns out the engine and drive are all Yamaha, from their Wave Runners. But Yamaha couldn't help at all and sent me back to Whaler...so... I contacted all the local dealers within a radius of 90 miles for both Whaler and Yamaha, and most of them hadn't a clue what I was even talking about. I finally found an independent guy out near Stockton who was completely familiar with the problem. His comment was: "Well, you're going to earn your money on this one, friend." I told him I was just doing this as a favor for a pal, and he said, basically, you need a paddle on the creek you're up, and you don't have one. He described the tool required to r & r the fitting where the cable comes out of the hull: "You take a socket and weld about two feet of pipe to it..." AND, nothing can be ascertained until the cable is completely out of the boat. That's where we stand now. I have an idea or two. Maybe I'll post updates. Wish me well.
whalerman	#8  Posted on 08/18/16 - 8:41 AM
Member Posts: 540 Comments: 5 Joined: 06/26/07	Post some pics of the problem, you've peaked my interest as to what you have!!! THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
jstboat	#9  Posted on 08/20/16 - 7:45 AM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/12/16	whalerman wrote: Post some pics of the problem, you've peaked my interest as to what you have!!! Well, I appreciate that. Not sure how to post pictures here.
jstboat	#10  Posted on 08/20/16 - 2:29 PM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/12/16	The cable emerges from the fitting as you see. It is broken, so needs to be replaced. The only way I can figure to do this is weld, say an 18" pipe onto a 1-1/8 socket. You can't use a deep well socket because the cable is in the way. jstboat attached the following image: [47.19Kb] Edited by jstboat on 08/20/16 - 2:29 PM
ursaminor	#11  Posted on 08/20/16 - 7:00 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 67 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/12/12	Maybe look at a "crowfoot" wrench with a long (or a couple) extension? They look like an open end wrench with a place to plug in the square end of an extension. Should be able to find one in 1 1/8". Good luck! 1989 Montauk 17 / 2012 90 HP Evinrude E-TEC
jstboat	#12  Posted on 08/20/16 - 8:17 PM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/12/16	Although it looks like there is a lot of room, there is not enough to maneuver one of those wrenches. Amazingly, however, I just discovered that Sears makes a product called a Max Axess socket set, where both the sockets and the drive are hollow. They appear to make nothing longer than a 3" extension and I need about 12", but I'm hoping I can stack the extensions. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-19pc-universal-max-axess-socket-and-ratchet/p-00931088000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3
whalerman	#13  Posted on 08/21/16 - 11:40 AM
Member Posts: 540 Comments: 5 Joined: 06/26/07	Hmm, looks as though you will have to be innovative in making a tool to remove this. One possible way is to get a cheap deepwell socket and grind away part of the side of the socket so the cable comes out the side of the socket and still use an extension or two. I take it that the fitting is like a thru hull fitting using one nut to pull it up tight. THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
jstboat	#14  Posted on 08/21/16 - 1:35 PM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/12/16	whalerman wrote: I take it that the fitting is like a thru hull fitting using one nut to pull it up tight. Yes, that's right. I like your idea with the socket. I'm hoping the Sears set I mentioned above will work and if not I may try it.. I've got a buddy who has the Sears set with driver so I'd just have to buy the extensions and the 1-1/8 socket. If that fits and clears the cable I think I'm going to be OK. I'll let you know with pictures when I get out there again.
ursaminor	#15  Posted on 08/22/16 - 12:12 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 67 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/12/12	I'd recommend trying a cheap deep socket and getting someone to weld the appropriate length of steel pipe onto it. If you can find a non chrome plated socket, even better although I'm sure a grinder would make quick work of it. You could then drill a hole large enough through the outer end of the pipe to pass a large screw driver or bar through to act as a handle. 1989 Montauk 17 / 2012 90 HP Evinrude E-TEC
jstboat	#16  Posted on 08/22/16 - 2:18 PM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/12/16	I was rounding up a welder who wouldn't charge an arm and a leg for that exact thing until I found out about the Sears tools. Still don't know if they'll work, though. You need specialized tools--like a press--to do some things but there's often a workaround. This one is a little extreme, though.