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Buffing pads vs. Polishing pads
hc803
#1 Print Post
Posted on 06/29/15 - 8:36 AM
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I'm going to tackle a full-boat buffing/polishing/waxing for the first time this summer on my 1987 17' Montauk. I keep seeing tutorials that refer to using pads for application of both compound and polish (and some wax) but some refer to using a "buffing pad" while others refer to using a "polishing pad". Some say use a buffing pad on both applications. I have the wool pad and the foam pad on hand, but should I use each for individual applications or one for both? Is there a "wax pad" that is necessary?

 
Phil T
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Posted on 06/29/15 - 9:29 AM
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I used wool bonnets for all the compounding and a foam head for waxing.

If your hull is chalky (run your finger on the surface), you want to start by wet sanding. Non-skid is different.

If heavily dull, start with heavy duty rubbing compound followed by 3M Finness-It and then wax.

If mildly dull, start with regular compound followed by 3M Finness-It and then wax.

A full inside and outside compound and waxing will take 8 hrs or more, twice as much if chalky.


 
VA Whaler
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Posted on 06/29/15 - 10:22 AM
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Phil, is there a:

heavy duty compound
regular duty compound
wax

that you'd recommend?

How would you describe "Finness-It"? Is it a light compound?

Finally have you used the 3M "Restorer and Wax" product? I used it on the port side of my 1979 22' Revenge last weekend and it did a pretty good job. That was the first time I attempted to wax a boat and I ran out of time before it got too hot/sunny. I hope to do the starboard side next time I'm at the lake.

I used the 3M "Wool Compounding Pad" Part # 05703. It is a dual sided wool pad and was recommended (along with the Restorer and Wax) by a guy who has detailed our 1983 18' GTX and did a pretty good job.

Thanks!

 
Phil T
#4 Print Post
Posted on 06/29/15 - 11:36 AM
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While everyone has their personal preferences, I had great results from these when I restored the hulls of my classic Montauk and Outrage 17. While the Outrage 17 was only slightly dull/oxidized, the Montauk was really bad.

Meguire's 49 Heavy Duty Compound
Meguire's 44 Light Duty Compound
3M Finness-It Polishing/Finishing Compound.

I used a Starbrite boat wax.

I kept my boats relatively clean and tidy but they were not showroom like many owners. My boats were run hard and carried people, groceries, building materials et al.

 
Sandler1
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Posted on 06/29/15 - 7:33 PM
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[i]i just bought a 1989 Montauk 17 in very nice condition but the hull is a bit dull and chalky. I spent time today using shurhold buff magic and their wool pad with a porter cable 7424xp. I followed this with an advanced swirl remover (meant for cars) on an orange foam pad, then the shurhold Pro Polish on a black foam polishing pad. This labor intensive process worked quite well, however my hull does not look like the Glossy gel coat hulls of more modern boats. It shines and is reflective, but is not reflective like on a car. I guess this is the nature of the finish on these hulls. Also I noticed that the gelcoat on the interior (once compounded) is not a stark white, but rather a bone white or cream color. Any comments, advice, or feedback would be greatly appreciated as I have much more work to do, I just got the boat 6/27/15 and I am excited about detailing the heck out of it since its at my home on a trailer. Thanks all...

 
msd58
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Posted on 06/30/15 - 5:22 AM
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Here's some recent shots of my '82 17' Not a garage queen -outside year round its whole life. Meguiers #67 followed up with Meguiers Flagship wax. Orbital polisher with sponge pad for the Meguiers #67 Took about 45 minutes.

http://i61.tinypic.com/2ldb0qe.jpgldb0qe.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/esuo1y.jpgesuo1y.jpg


Edited by msd58 on 06/30/15 - 5:25 AM
 
tmann45
#7 Print Post
Posted on 06/30/15 - 8:22 AM
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WOW, 33-years outside, she is looking great. Probably looks better than some that are garage kept.

 
Phil T
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Posted on 06/30/15 - 9:24 AM
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Remember, cars have a clear coat finish, boats do not. Slightly glossy and a little reflective is good.

Use marine products (fiberglass and gelcoat) and not automotive (metal and clear coats).

 
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