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1993 Whaler Gelcoat protection/shine
NBwhaler93
#1 Print Post
Posted on 08/06/14 - 3:35 PM
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Newbie here on this forum:
Asking for recommendations on how to protect/buff/wax the white gelcoat.
I tried wax first; fail.
I then went to compound; fail.
It appears the gelcoat hasn't been treated, well since maybe ever. When I attempted to compound it, the hull literally sucked the compound up and I had to work like hell to get most of the color of the compound out. (luckily I had only done a small area)
Any and all recommendations would be great....
Thanks in advance

1993 17 Montauk


Edited by Joe Kriz on 08/06/14 - 4:38 PM
 
dougt
#2 Print Post
Posted on 08/06/14 - 4:44 PM
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I had good luck with 3M Restore. Amazon
I tried some rubbing compound that I had for my cars, but didn't touch it.
The restore is pretty aggressive and will cut through the oxidation.

Doug


1996 Sport GLS 13' - 1996 Johnson 40hp, 2 Stroke
 
NBwhaler93
#3 Print Post
Posted on 08/06/14 - 6:08 PM
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Thanks; will try.
Ive worked at marinas/boatyards for years and have never seen the neglect im dealing with. Im also at the end of diagnosing the neglected electrical system. gonna have to rewire it. but that's a whole different forum discussion Ive wanted to start but its taken me a week to figure out where. lol

 
Phil T
#4 Print Post
Posted on 08/07/14 - 6:03 AM
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If the hull is chalky use a "heavy duty rubbing compound" 3M, Meguire's make good products. If the hull is faded, it will suck up the compound. The key is technique.

Try to be in the shade. Direct sun will make it a bit harder.

Use a wool bonnet on a 6-8" diameter variable speed polisher. Apply the compound in an X to the bonnet (on the polisher) and work a small 2' x 2' area. Buff till the compound looks dry. Apply again to same area and buff till almost dry. After 2 rounds, wipe off excess compound completely. Wipe the surface with your hand. It should feel smooth and be shiny. IF not smooth, repeat. When done, work new adjoining area.

If the outside hull is chalky and has bottom paint, I would estimate it will take you 3 or 4 bottles of compound and 4-6 hrs of work to do the hull and insides (not console or floor) for this step.

Report back on your progress and we can help with technique and/or products.

The next step will be a finish compound like 3M Finess-it II. Follow directions. Final step is boat wax.


 
NBwhaler93
#5 Print Post
Posted on 08/08/14 - 6:07 PM
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Ill get some more compound and go at it again.
Exactly what you said is what I did. I applied compound, 2x2 area. applied with a soft terry cloth rag and buffed it off. with buffer. It just kept sucking it up. Turning the boat the color of compound. I got ascared and stopped. lol
Had to use a wet rag to get it sorta loose so I could get most of the color off.

but ill go at her again between re-wiring the boat. That's been a fun one too. but for a different forum on here

Thanks for the reply; Ill let ya know how it turns out. :)

 
tmann45
#6 Print Post
Posted on 08/09/14 - 10:51 AM
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You might need to start with 400 - 600 wet /dry sandpaper. Or some of Binkie's bowling ball sanding pads.

 
Weatherly
#7 Print Post
Posted on 08/10/14 - 3:22 PM
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The 1993 Boston Whaler 17 Montauk does not have white gelcoat. The color of the gelcoat is desert tan. Your hull may be so chalky from neglect and exposure that the gelcoat appears white. When you compound finish the gelcoat it will reveal a darker, original desert tan color. You may need to remove some of the dirt and oxidation using wet sandpaper. Start with a 400-600 grit on the stubborn areas and smooth things out up to 2000 grit. The compound material will work much better to clean and shine the hull. I use a BW Rockland, MA factory recommended product called Matchless United acrylic compound bar, applied with a 9 inch wool buffing pad. I then use Collinite wax.

The website for Matchless United is: http://www.matchlessmetal.com/compoun...ounds.html
The acrylic compound code is 205W that matches the color of the BW desert tan.


Edited by Weatherly on 08/10/14 - 4:03 PM
 
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