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Placement of bow eye on 1972 Cohasset.
Johninaustin	#1  Posted on 08/06/14 - 11:23 AM
Member Posts: 6 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/20/14	When I bought it there was damage to the bow eye resulting in crushing of the fiberglass and water intrusion. Plus it was placed so far down the keel you could not reach it from inside the boat. (From what I can find this was the factory location) The bow eye needed to be cut to be removed. There was so much breakage and damage to the fiberglass surrounding the bow eye and anchor locker eye that you could wiggle the thing a couple inches by hand. I had the fiberglass shop completely plug the empty space and close off the hole. They did an excellent job but I was strongly advised NOT to put the bow eye back in that location. However, it leaves me with no way to crank it onto the trailer. My plan is to move the bow/anchor eye to the empty area just below the Norman pin. (Parts are on order) and adjust the winch to match. Does anyone see a downside to this? Will the area support the stress? Could I just run a loop to the Norman pin and use that as hardpoint to winch onto the trailer? Thanks, John.
Phil T	#2  Posted on 08/06/14 - 12:51 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6986 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	There is a practical reason the eye is low to the waterline. A low eye for a mooring line will keep the bow from digging in. When moored in waves, boats with a high bow eye tend to dip their bows down toward the water when the anchor line is taught and will ship water over the bow. Many owners have loose bow eyes, given the age and use, it is not a big deal. There are DIY fixes on this site. That shop guy is a moron. I would NOT change the location, but reinstall in the original location. If you still have the original eyes, just replace the threaded stainless steel rod. Edited by Phil T on 08/06/14 - 1:02 PM
wing15601	#3  Posted on 08/06/14 - 12:59 PM
Member Posts: 699 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/14/12	I don't think the Norman pin was designed to endure the stresses that would be imposed by trying to use it to winch up the boat. Did the fiberglass shop give you a reason to not use the original area for the bow eye. I would think if they did a proper repair there would be no reason to use another area. In any case, I'll bet some of the damage was due to someone trying to unscrew the eye on the outside instead of the eye on the inside because the outside eye has a pin that sits in a shallow hole drilled to hold it in position. Many people on this site have repaired their bow eye damage and put it back in the same spot. I would believe that Boston Whaler may have made the glass a little thicker both inside and outside the hull where the eye goes and it is the ideal place for the best leverage when wrenching a boat back onto the trailer anyway. If I had no choice but to move it I would move it down rather than up. But the inside and outside faces of the hull are parallel where the eye is located from the factory so that's the best location. I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport.
Johninaustin	#4  Posted on 08/06/14 - 2:45 PM
Member Posts: 6 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/20/14	Damage was due to the previous owner ramming the bow eye into something pretty solid like a low dock or such. The shop recommended against it because other than the fiberglass hull itself there is no reinforcement in the area. (wood, etc) The shop owner theorized there was wood reinforcement in the Norman pin area. Interestingly, the bow eye and rod were cast stainless in one piece. The locker eye was the piece drilled and tapped with only about an inch of threading. I was able to salvage the locker eye. (Props to PB Blaster) From what I can find shopping around, it's a three-piece system now. My main concern is that I cannot reach the original location without getting out of the boat on a slippery ramp to attach it to the winch. With the trailer bunks being rollers that's going to get dicey. Edited by Johninaustin on 08/06/14 - 2:47 PM
Joe Kriz	#5  Posted on 08/06/14 - 2:48 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11431 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Yes, they changed to a 3 piece unit later on. http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=25 Also note: The trailer bunks should not be roller style. They should be carpeted bunks or similar. Edited by Joe Kriz on 08/06/14 - 2:50 PM
Johninaustin	#6  Posted on 08/06/14 - 2:50 PM
Member Posts: 6 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/20/14	Well, if it has to go back to the original location, maybe I can modify the trailer. Perhaps one of those automatic bow eye bolt things people but on bass boat trailers. Climbing in and out of the boat is really not possible for me.
Joe Kriz	#7  Posted on 08/06/14 - 2:59 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11431 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	You could change the bow eye to the even newer style. http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=26 There is a Project Album where a member has done the above. This probably still wouldn't help you get in and out of the boat but it would help with your weak hull area from the single threaded rod style. Look at all 6 pages here: http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...owstart=20