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Is this trailer worth optimizing?
cys
#1 Print Post
Posted on 07/15/14 - 8:59 AM
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A few (more) trailer questions :). I have a 1988 Montauk 17 with the trailer in the following images that I would like to optimize:

https://flic.kr/p/oiBjfW,
https://flic.kr/p/okmzoV.

The trailer has two main rollers per the photos. I would like to optimize the trailer by:
(i) replacing the two main rollers with 12" Stoltz ones with (greased) stainless shafts, and
(ii) ensuring the boat weight is supported by the rollers and the bunks only serve for balance.
Questions I have: (1) are only two main 12" rollers enough support for the boat/keel without the bunks sharing any of the weight?, and (2) is this trailer worth optimizing?


Edited by Phil T on 07/15/14 - 9:05 AM
 
Phil T
#2 Print Post
Posted on 07/15/14 - 9:29 AM
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A # 2 Yes

A # 1 If me I would replace the rollers to the non-marring type AND add a second bracket and roller to the forward side of each crossmember.

While the two rollers are sufficient to hold the weight, adding doubles allows the boat to launch and retrieve so much better.

Stolz brand are pricey. There are some other non-marring rollers that are more economical.

These are $16 vs. $25
http://www.easternmarine.com/12-yates...8-id-1200y

This assumes you will change the forward roller to a non-marring type as well.

http://www.easternmarine.com/4-yates-...-2-id-450y

I would add a end bell to both ends of the forward roller to ensure the keel hits the roller and does not go off track and cause damage.

http://www.easternmarine.com/3-yates-...-bell-325y

 
wing15601
#3 Print Post
Posted on 07/15/14 - 10:32 AM
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Agree with Phil. I would also add a galvanized eye bolt to each rear bunk bracket for tie down straps from the transom lifting eyes. That piece of PVC
pipe going through the front wall of the splash well. I will assume that was/is for bilge pump discharge because of the dirt and staining in the splash well on the transom. There doesn't appear to be any sealant around that pipe.


I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport.
 
cys
#4 Print Post
Posted on 07/15/14 - 11:17 AM
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wing15601 wrote:That piece of PVC
pipe going through the front wall of the splash well. I will assume that was/is for bilge pump discharge because of the dirt and staining in the splash well on the transom. There doesn't appear to be any sealant around that pipe.


That PVC pipe is long gone (grime in the splash well, too). That photo was from another thread here. Removed the PVC pipe and plugged the hole with a dowel and thickened West System epoxy and gel coated over it. I've worked on the hull now for about 6 months, finishing with drain tube replacement and resealing the motor mount bolts the past couple of weeks. I thought I was done for a while, but now the trailer has piqued my interest...


Edited by cys on 07/15/14 - 11:19 AM
 
Finnegan
#5 Print Post
Posted on 07/15/14 - 12:28 PM
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I believe this to be the optimal trailer and trailer set up for a classic Whaler 16/17' hull. All boat weight is carried on the Stoltz keel rollers, and the boat lauches and retrieves with great ease. it appears you can do something like this on your trailer.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...2144720755

The closer you can come to setting yours up like this, the better off you will be.

In your photos, I can see that the boat needs to come forward on the trailer, so that the thickness of the transom, carrying the engine weight, is resting directly over the last keel roller. Only about 1" of hull should be behind the roller. This also allows for proper use of transom tie down straps, so that they don't rub against the gelcoat. Stabilizing 2 x 4 bunk boards should not protrude past the hull. 1/2" eye bolts should be through bolted through the trailer rear cross member for maximum security, as shown in this photo:

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...1956372549

You can view other photos in the album to see how the Montauk sits on this trailer.

 
cys
#6 Print Post
Posted on 07/15/14 - 12:40 PM
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Thanks, everyone, so far. Appreciate the complementary pointers.


Finnegan wrote:
I believe this to be the optimal trailer and trailer set up for a classic Whaler 16/17' hull. All boat weight is carried on the Stoltz keel rollers, and the boat lauches and retrieves with great ease. it appears you can do something like this on your trailer.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...2144720755

The closer you can come to setting yours up like this, the better off you will be.


I was looking at that image last night as an optimal setup. I got the Stoltz roller/stainless rod/grease tip from one of your posts. I was afraid I was going to be "putting lipstick on a pig" (per the earlier thread) by upgrading my current trailer so I made this thread in part to find out if that would be the consensus...


Edited by cys on 07/15/14 - 12:41 PM
 
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