1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

1989 22 Temptation fuel tank
dnt99611	#1  Posted on 07/09/14 - 9:47 PM
Member Posts: 13 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/09/14	Hello all, This my first post so be kind. This started out to be a simple fix of a fuel guage. It is turning out to be a whole different can of worms. I could not get to the fuel sender wires so I pulled up the deck to make it easier. What I found was broken wires, a water logged piece of glassed over plywood and totaly saturated foam surrounding my fuel tank. Is the normal in a whaler? I thought they used closed cell foam and it did not absorb water? I have learned this is not true with some reading but it sure came as a supprise to me. So what is the fix for this? Both most common and best options would be nice to hear. I have done a fair amount of glass work in the past so that part will not bother me. Thanks, David
Joe Kriz	#2  Posted on 07/09/14 - 10:11 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11431 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Take a look at our Repair Articles section. Here is one: http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...ticle_id=8
dnt99611	#3  Posted on 07/09/14 - 10:34 PM
Member Posts: 13 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/09/14	Yep, looks just like what I have found. Does the wet foam cause the fuel tank to rust through? I am not sure if I am getting a gas leak into this area from a leaking hose or from the tank itself. I do know that when I fill up with fuel I have a ton of fumes in the boat. They go away after some run time takes the tank level down some. I did not smell any gas in the wet foam I dug our around the tank. I think I have some bad hoses and was planning on changing them all out and then seeing what happens for now. I am pretty sure this coming winter I will pull the tank and get all of the old foam out of that area. David
dnt99611	#4  Posted on 07/09/14 - 10:35 PM
Member Posts: 13 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/09/14	Also thanks for pointing me in the right direction Joe!
Phil T	#5  Posted on 07/10/14 - 6:20 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6986 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Replace the fuel vent, fill and feed lines to eliminate them from the leak culprit. The new hoses should be marine rated fuel hose and have a colored stripe and say alcohol-resistant. Pull the floor inspection ports when not using the boat to let the moisture escape.
wing15601	#6  Posted on 07/10/14 - 6:55 AM
Member Posts: 699 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/14/12	Unfortunately the foam will, as you have found, absorb water. If it had any gas in it, the gas would be on the top. The tank is aluminum so it won't rust. Edited by wing15601 on 07/10/14 - 6:56 AM I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport.
gchuba	#7  Posted on 07/10/14 - 7:08 AM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	Phil, I have my replacement fuel fill hose in front of me. It is a "Shields 355 fuel hose USCG type A2 SAE J1527-ISO 7840". No mention of alcohol resistance on the label but I looked up the specs in the catalog and it is alcohol/fuel blend resistant. I know it was not cheap and I was surprised to see the Coast Guard approval labeled. You made a good point for ordering marine grade hose. I had the same issues with the smell of fumes. My culprit was the age of hose that had a slight crack at the seem where the tank fill nipple ended inside the hose. Go after the removal carefully. Tough bird to remove. Seems to be glued on. I lost a portion of the vent nipple at the fill side of the boat. Garris
dnt99611	#8  Posted on 07/10/14 - 7:17 AM
Member Posts: 13 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/09/14	Ok, so the plan is to change all the hoses and then take the boat fishing. This winter I will dig the old foam out, pull the tank and figure out what to do next. The wet foam will freeze for sure so it has to go. Good thhing in no ethenal in the fuel here so we do not have the problems that causes. Thanks for the replys, David
Phil T	#9  Posted on 07/10/14 - 12:31 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6986 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	The gel coated cavity is only ~ 1/2 inch wider on each side and and inch or 2 longer than the tank. The factory laid the tank on a narrow rubber strip in the cavity, attached the straps then added foam to keep the tank in place. For those replacing their tanks the recommendation is to not use foam. Use spacer blocks instead.
Eric Chase	#10  Posted on 07/11/14 - 1:55 AM
Member Posts: 2 Comments: 0 Joined: 01/29/14	Why the recommendation to not use foam? Isn't corrosion at the points where the blocks contact the tank a big problem? My 1988 tank seems to have developed a leak after 26 years, but I would say the foam did pretty well. Do blocks do better?