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Bow Light Socket
JPB	#1  Posted on 02/19/14 - 9:27 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 103 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/26/09	Can someone tell me the correct light socket and bulb replacement for my bow light. 1. 1982 2. Originally a Montauk 3. 17 foot I have posted a picture at the bottom of my personal page. Thanks for the help. Joey
Tom W Clark	#2  Posted on 02/19/14 - 9:39 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	That light base and socket are from a Whaler bow light much older than 1982. That said, I have a socket that will work.
huckelberry145	#3  Posted on 02/19/14 - 10:03 AM
Member Posts: 401 Comments: 3 Joined: 03/10/12	I have been asking for and needing the same thing. Where can I purchase the socket for the small bayonet bulb?
JPB	#4  Posted on 02/19/14 - 11:02 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 103 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/26/09	Thanks...I will email you. Joey
Tom W Clark	#5  Posted on 02/19/14 - 12:37 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	For a bulb you want a G4-1/2 bulb with a BA9S base (single contact, bayonet style, 9mm diameter) 0.5 AMP which, at 12 volts is ~5 or 6 watts. Chrome plated base is preferred for corrosion resistance, though not required. There are also new miniature LED bulbs with BA9S bases that will work.
Joe Kriz	#6  Posted on 02/19/14 - 12:53 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11434 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Older Bulb. http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=23
Tom W Clark	#7  Posted on 02/19/14 - 1:08 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	That bulb has a BA15S base and won't fit the early Boston Whaler bow lights. The 15 in BA15S means it has a 15mm diameter.
Tom W Clark	#8  Posted on 02/19/14 - 1:15 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	Nope, the #1416 is a BA9S base bulb http://www.bulbtown.com/1416_MINIATUR...p/1416.htm Joe - we should correct the link on that parts photo
Tom W Clark	#9  Posted on 02/19/14 - 1:35 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	I also do not believe the #1416 will fit the old lights because it is a T4-1/2 bulb (tubular with 0.56" diameter) which is taller than a G4-1/2 (globe shape, 0.56" diameter) The G4-1/2 barely makes it. I just measured two old bow lights I have here with a G4-1/2" bulb and the clearance to the top of the plastic lens is less than 1/8"
Joe Kriz	#10  Posted on 02/19/14 - 1:43 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11434 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Tom, Not sure which bulb you are thinking is correct. The #1416 has and does work properly as far as I remember. What other number bulbs do you want listed? EDIT: I see that Top Bulb has the base listed as incorrect as you do mention it is a BA9S base. I will change the link to the Bulb Town link as you show above. Cheaper to.
Tom W Clark	#11  Posted on 02/19/14 - 2:10 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	The G4-1/2 BA9S is correct and will fit. I don't have a T4-1/2 BA9S (#1416) here but will go get one and test fit it. I'm pretty sure it will not fit; it's too tall.
Joe Kriz	#12  Posted on 02/19/14 - 3:42 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11434 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Let us know what you find out Tom. I know the taller one does fit as a buddy of mine had one installed on his light. However, the shorter bulb was the one I had in my Montauk. Below is a photo of my buddies light on his 1977 Montauk. You can see the taller light bulb which was a #1416 It didn't seem to get hot and/or melt the green/red lens. Joe Kriz attached the following image: [32.38Kb] Edited by Joe Kriz on 02/19/14 - 3:45 PM
Tom W Clark	#13  Posted on 02/19/14 - 7:06 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	I figured it out. There are more than one early bow lights from Whaler that use the mini-bayonet bulbs. I swung by West Marine on my way home and picked up a pair of ANCOR brand #1416 (Trade Number) bulbs. These were not expensive, have a chrome plated brass base and are indeed T4-1/2 bulbs with a BA9S base. Rated 12 volt, 0.8 amp and 10.2 watts There is no way they will fit in the two early Boston Whaler bow lights I have here. http://home.comcast.net/~tomwclark/14...dLight.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~tomwclark/Ol...tApart.jpg And the reason is simple enough: a T4-1/2 is much taller than a G4-1/2 bulb: http://home.comcast.net/~tomwclark/Gv...k/GvsT.jpg Here is a G4-1/2 bulb inside the lens of these early bow lights: http://home.comcast.net/~tomwclark/GB...ldLens.jpg You can see there is not much clearance and the filament is nicely centered in the lens. However, the light that Joe shows and that I believe Joey has, is different that the two I have here. They are taller and they accommodate the taller T4-1/2 bulbs. Look at Joey's light base on his Personal Page: http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...r_id=12583 You can see that it is much deeper than the light shown in our OEM Parts Photo Gallery: http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...oto_id=795 I also presume the light Joe shows above is the taller/deeper version. When this change occurred, I do not know but I suspect some time in the mid 1970s Edited by Joe Kriz on 03/03/14 - 12:22 PM
Tom W Clark	#14  Posted on 02/20/14 - 12:57 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	To answer the question about sourcing the socket itself, they can be bought from a number of sources. Remember, you are looking for a BA9S socket, preferably made of materials suitable for marine use. Here is an exemplar: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bayonet-Lamp-...1029159901 I think I actually ordered several from this same vendor a couple years ago. This the same dimensions as the original Whaler used, HOWEVER, the tab is bent 90 degrees, so to use it you need to straighten it out flat again. The position of the mounting screw hole is perfect. You also need a plastic insulator to slip over the socket. I have had a very hard time finding a suitable plastic bushing that will serve this purpose. It must fit over the socket but still be thin enough to fit into the casting of the light base. I tried to use apiece of 3/8" PEX I had lying around but the sidewall thickness is too great. I have just ordered some metric sized nylon flange bushings I am hoping will fit.
Super Sporter	#15  Posted on 02/20/14 - 1:10 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 52 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/05/14	I saw on another website that sells "OEM" style parts that their anchor and bow lights are LED. Also, that they are significantly brighter and have a 50,000 hr. life. Are the bases the same, and just refitted with LED bulbs? I have a 1986 13 SS and are considering LED.
JPB	#16  Posted on 02/20/14 - 1:33 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 103 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/26/09	Do you think all sockets came with a plastic insulator and flange? Mine did not have either one?
Tom W Clark	#17  Posted on 02/20/14 - 2:24 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	The plastic insulator is very important; without it the light fixture itself becomes part of the electrical circuit.
Tom W Clark	#18  Posted on 02/20/14 - 2:25 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	Super Sporter-- BIG dfference between "OEM style" and OEM
huckelberry145	#19  Posted on 02/20/14 - 4:01 PM
Member Posts: 401 Comments: 3 Joined: 03/10/12	I didn't get a chance to today but I think I know where to get something that will work as the socket insulator. If I find that they will work, I'll get a pack of them and share them with whoever needs them.
Super Sporter	#20  Posted on 02/20/14 - 4:18 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 52 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/05/14	I am well aware of the difference. I got a navigation light from Specialty Marine and the LED is a new socket with a screw in Light bulb. It is stainless steel so I may return it and get my old one re-chromed. Depends how original I want it and cost effectiveness. Bulb Town has BA9S for nav. and BA15S for Anchor in LED. Great lead. Thanks.