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First launch a SUCCESS!! Black Max floats
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| ursaminor |
Posted on 04/09/13 - 6:29 PM
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CES wrote:
I hope that when you open her up for the first time, you're on smooth water as you'll surely chine walk if you encounter the slightest chop and the hull isn't perfectly modified for higher speeds. I don't know what your boating experience entails so with that said, please be careful!
I seem to be mirroring CES on this thread but he speaks wisely. With 90+ HP on a boat that's normally considered fast with a 70 things have the potential to get interesting in a hurry. Take your time finding out where the dragons might be hiding and have fun. Don't forget the life jacket and kill switch lanyard!
1989 Montauk 17 / 2012 90 HP Evinrude E-TEC |
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| Binkie |
Posted on 04/10/13 - 9:56 AM
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Also, you might find that you need a foot throttle for safety and to drive with two hands as "runpastthefence" found out with a 135 on a 15 footer. You can't rely on pulling back the throttle handle if things get dicey. Real raceboats use either a squeeze throttle on kneel down boats or a foot throttle for sit down boats. You need a throttle that when you foot or hand comes off it it will go to idle. A kill switch is useless. I don't think a foot throttle will fit under the console though, and a squeeze throttle would not be applicable on your boat.
rich
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| jamesgt727 |
Posted on 04/10/13 - 11:25 AM
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Duly noted. I am not a "risk taker", I just like the way the boat feels and looks. I may never see its top speed, just the way I am I guess. I still have a prior boat with a brand new motor, maybe 20 hours of run time, perfectly restored, that I may have hit 3/4 throttle, and I think its a mid 50's boat of similar shape and design. I promise safety for my children. If I ever let my sons use this boat I can assure you it would be stable and have a prop that will be on the limiter at 40 mph, even if the motor blows up first. It should last a long time, and be a fun boat to own.
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| Binkie |
Posted on 04/10/13 - 12:55 PM
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I always used to say that "if you ain't skeered you ain't having fun". I'm not so sure about that anymore, I don't know how much of a beating my 75yr old bones can take. I was always careful with my raceboat, but when the adrenalin kicks in its easy to go over the edge. Thats why I don't have it anymore.
I doubt anybody wants to drive a boat like yours at 3/4 throttle. LOL
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| dauntless-n-miami |
Posted on 04/10/13 - 3:40 PM
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Hello jamesgt727, awesome looking boat and incredible detail. Inquiry regarding the lower unit and jack plate.
Is the nose cone a Bob's Machine Shop assembly? Which style is it and how was it installed, epoxy or welded?
What brand and model is the jack plate? Also the offset? What mod's did you do to the transom for mounting the jackplate?
I apologize for the numerous questions but I have been considering for awhile now a "Low water pick-up" and jack plate for my Dauntless 15 with a Yamy 90HP.
Thank you in advance for your time...
"Speed doesn't kill, it's the sudden stop with solid surfaces that does" LoL...
1996 Dauntless 15, Sportsman Pkg. - 2007 Yamaha 90 HP 2-Stroke |
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| jamesgt727 |
Posted on 04/10/13 - 4:31 PM
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DNM, the lower is a Bob's Combo, and I believe the welded first then epoxy fill, the finish is nice. Make sure you specify that the braided hose and tap go on the opposite side of the lower unit fluid fill screw, or you will tick off your mechanic! This Jack Plate is the TH Marine 4" Atlas. It's self contained. Mount the jack plate and outboard as low as you can (we even drilled custom holes lower) so you can utilize the plate more when you running on a plane. My Atlas was dismantled, polished, annodized. The vertical moving plate was painted. I chose the Atlas for style, and its lube and maintenance free. I have a bob's Action Jack 6" on my other boat, works just fine.
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| dauntless-n-miami |
Posted on 04/11/13 - 11:53 AM
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Thanks for the info...
1996 Dauntless 15, Sportsman Pkg. - 2007 Yamaha 90 HP 2-Stroke |
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| jamesgt727 |
Posted on 04/11/13 - 12:27 PM
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Binkie wrote:
I always used to say that "if you ain't skeered you ain't having fun". I'm not so sure about that anymore, I don't know how much of a beating my 75yr old bones can take. I was always careful with my raceboat, but when the adrenalin kicks in its easy to go over the edge. Thats why I don't have it anymore.
I doubt anybody wants to drive a boat like yours at 3/4 throttle. LOL
Thanks, that's funny. I just noticed you are in the Tampa Area, if you need any work done to your boat let me know and I'll give you Eric @ Image Marine's number. He also has the flex-molds to remold the non-skid that we purchased for this boat, those molds are extremely expensive and hard to work with, and I think that may be why most don't use them so if you or if you know anyone in this area, you all are welcome to take advantage of that so be my guest. The molds are the latest "whaler" double diamond pattern from Gibco "FLEX-MOLD GFBW 327". The cut pattern will fit a 13 or a 15 like a charm.
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| wannabe |
Posted on 04/11/13 - 3:15 PM
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jamesgt727 wrote:
wannabe wrote:
Sweeeeeeeeeet! A nice blend of the wood along with chrome accessories. What did you put on your brightwork and how many coats?
My apologies to Mike Stennett at Nautical Lumber, I failed to mention that He and his company provided the wooden interior custom built to these specifications, complete with varnish finish. All we had to do on the interior portion of this project was cut outs, and fitting the interior to the hull, and the final acrylic over the top to achieve an automotive durable finish.
Mike made some parts for me as well. I am doing all the wood on my Outrage and going for the high gloss look.
Drew
1988 Outrage 18 - 1988 Yamaha 130 hp |
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| jamesgt727 |
Posted on 04/11/13 - 4:47 PM
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Wannabe, I can tell you that Mikes finish was thick and nice right out of the box. The problem we encountered, was matching the color and finish of the rub rail, and extra pcs that were made here locally. I really appreciate the gloss level that was achieved on the wood, from an angle it reflects a near perfect image. And the depth of grain, and golden colors that pop in the sun, are phenomenal. Just be patient, and sand between coats with 320. My wood parts are a combination of stain, varnish, and acrylic, if you need professional help or advise, Ask Mike or Craig I am sure they would love to help..
Edited by jamesgt727 on 04/11/13 - 4:48 PM |
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| wannabe |
Posted on 04/11/13 - 5:06 PM
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jamesgt727 wrote:
Wannabe, I can tell you that Mikes finish was thick and nice right out of the box. The problem we encountered, was matching the color and finish of the rub rail, and extra pcs that were made here locally. I really appreciate the gloss level that was achieved on the wood, from an angle it reflects a near perfect image. And the depth of grain, and golden colors that pop in the sun, are phenomenal. Just be patient, and sand between coats with 320. My wood parts are a combination of stain, varnish, and acrylic, if you need professional help or advise, Ask Mike or Craig I am sure they would love to help..
Thanks James, I am using West system epoxy with a varnish over the top for UV protection. The guys who do this for a living can be a bit secretive about their methods. Trust me on that. What I have done so far is good as I have a retired autobody shop owner helping me out.
Drew
Drew
1988 Outrage 18 - 1988 Yamaha 130 hp |
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| Binkie |
Posted on 04/12/13 - 6:09 AM
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Thanks for the mold offer James. but the paint work is complete at this point. I've restored numerous boats over the years basically since I was a teenager, and I've always done everything myself. Thing is I rather work on boats than use them. The custom 13 footer I built (on my personal page) in 2008 I seldom use. The Mercury was new when I installed it in '08, and its got less than 50 hours on it. I'll sell it when the 15 footer is done. Thing is, where I live, Spring Hill, The Gulf is very shallow and full of rocks. After living in Ft. Myers for 35 years the boating here really sucks. We usually trailer down south a bit.
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| jamesgt727 |
Posted on 04/12/13 - 6:13 AM
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Binkie, Then we have got to get together and run, this boat is our "river" boat and it will be used almost exclusively on the Weeki Wachee River, in Spring Hill. I'll let you know the next time we go up there. We are always there on major "sunny day" holidays. You could always drop your boat in at the ramp in Roger's Park, or I have a boat ramp behind the house on property. I appreciate the fact that you do all of the work yourself, that's really impressive. Your boats look great. Post some pics of the 15.
Edited by jamesgt727 on 04/12/13 - 6:16 AM |
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| CES |
Posted on 04/12/13 - 10:20 AM
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James. My dad used to live in port richie and we'd run the weeki waachie too. Nice!!
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| jamesgt727 |
Posted on 04/12/13 - 10:30 AM
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Our house is about a quarter mile downriver from Rogers Park. If you haven't been there in a while, a lot has changed, particularly the marine species.
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| jamesgt727 |
Posted on 04/15/13 - 5:37 AM
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I ran it late yesterday evening, and I was on a plane most of the running time. I was running what appeared to be a pretty fast cruise and the boat hit 48.7 mph on GPS, and it seemed to have a lot left. This speed was achieved with the jack plate all the way down, trim all the way down with one bump up on trim. The hull modifications seem to be doing what we had hoped. The boat planes within two boat lengths, runs flat (nose down) and level. A little more seat time, and I'll make a video and share the top speed that is reached.
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| CES |
Posted on 04/15/13 - 9:16 AM
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When you're running flat out, you'll want your jack plate up higher and your boat to have a slight nose up attitude.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| jamesgt727 |
Posted on 04/15/13 - 10:28 AM
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It was really interesting, the balance of the boat seemed right on, as soon as I brought the motor to a more level position, the boat seemed to "wake-up". At speed, the boat tracks straight and true with zero drama. The hydraulic steering makes it seem so solid. I had one of my boys with me so I was being extra cautious. I have that partial surfacing prop, Merc Laser II, so I've got a lot to learn about this boats running characteristics. As soon as the motor jacks out of the water and takes the stabilizer plate out, things started to feel pretty loose. No drama, just different and light.
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| CES |
Posted on 04/15/13 - 11:20 AM
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Ideally your prop should be about 1/2 way out of the water when WOT.... That's the point where your boat will rise above the outboard chines on your hull and you'll only be riding on the portion of the hull you've modified.....
In the Hot boat community, when the boat rises that high at WOT, they called it being "aired out".... Things start to get a bit exciting when a boat is "Aired out" and the pilot isn't sure of what they're doing. Lol..
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| CES |
Posted on 04/15/13 - 11:21 AM
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CES wrote:
Ideally your prop should be about 1/2 way out of the water when WOT.... That's the point where your boat will rise above the outboard chines on your hull and you'll only be riding on the portion of the hull you've modified.....
In the Hot boat community, when the boat rises that high at WOT, they called it being "aired out".... Things start to get a bit exciting when a boat is "Aired out" and the pilot isn't sure of what they're doing. Lol..
Here's a video of some of my buddies who are "Aired out"...
http://youtu.be/UC4DvOpLo04
Edited by CES on 04/15/13 - 11:22 AM
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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